When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
First want to start by saying I swear I did a quick search for a thread with the same content. If I missed it, I'm sorry for double threading.
I've had my Cooper for about a month or so now and I was noticing sometimes the idle would be fine at stop lights and such but if I was sitting there longer than I guess a minute(?) the idle would jump up to 1k and stay there. I figured at first maybe just the fan kicking on because of the light to light part of my commute and it seemed to be fine when I started driving and stop at the next light again until I was there for a minute it would do the same gig and rise to 1k. Soooooo, today on my way home during the light to light portion of my commute I noticed that the idle was staying at 1k and nothing I did (rev, cycle heat/ac, etc.) would correct it. Turned the music down and started to really pay attention to the way the car was running the rest of the drive home and I think that I MIGHT have noticed a slight loss in power. So I slow it down and start babying her to get home and look into it more thinking maybe it's just a vacuum line that came loose or something simple. Made it home, pulled into my parking spot and the battery light came on? So now I'm thinking possibly alternator or battery? Would that typically cause a high idle in these cars? I don't want to chase ghosts here, she's my only means of transportation to and from work. Has anybody experienced this before?
Update: I couldn't find anything when I searched but after posting I seen the related threads section at the bottom with someone having pretty much the same issue but not much activity on the thread.
Went to get in the car this morning and my ABS light, ASC light, and shortly after driving a few miles, maybe not even a few lol battery light came on (pic below). Also power steering was coming in and out for a minute and then was just completely gone. So I turned around to grab my girlfriend's car who has capabilities to work from home so I didn't get stuck on the side of the road somewhere during my 50+ mile commute to work. Pulled her car out and went to put my car in her spot and the car is dead. Definitely battery/charging system.
So if any of you start to experience high idle at around 1k do yourself a favor before going on a wild goose chase for sensor failures and vacuum leaks. Run to AutoZone or Advance or whatever is near you and have your charging system and battery checked. Strange voltage does strange things in these modern cars 😒
I was just sitting here at work thinking with the power steering loss it's probably more likely to be a belt issue, am I wrong? Maybe a seized up or off center pulley? Hoping just a belt..
Last edited by Paul Giraldo; May 31, 2019 at 04:51 AM.
There was a recall on the power steering pump for certain build dates of your car. Check online. You might be able to get it replaced free. I would bet your electrical problem started with a bad battery.
There was a recall on the power steering pump for certain build dates of your car. Check online. You might be able to get it replaced free. I would bet your electrical problem started with a bad battery.
The power steering wasn't an issue at all until I had the low voltage issue. Do you know off hand what exactly the issue was? I'll Google it see what I can't find. Still for sure having some kind of voltage issue unless the PS pump is seized up and preventing the belt from spinning... I definitely didn't hear any squealing though.
Quick maybe silly question.. If I do in fact have to replace the alternator do I need a special tool for the tensioner or anything? I know how European car manufacturers can be..
Quick maybe silly question.. If I do in fact have to replace the alternator do I need a special tool for the tensioner or anything? I know how European car manufacturers can be..
Yes, you will need the Serpentine Belt removal tool. There are threads here where members have made their own tools, and of course members selling here as well.
Just so you know -- your power steering pump is electric, not belt-driven. It's also located in a most inconvenient location, right in the middle of the front sub-frame. A low battery can cause all sorts of gremlins to appear (electrically) and affects multiple systems. Run it down to the parts store and have it checked.
Last edited by cooper48; May 31, 2019 at 01:04 PM.
Reason: additional text
Just so you know -- your power steering pump is electric, not belt-driven. It's also located in a most inconvenient location, right in the middle of the front sub-frame. A low battery can cause all sorts of gremlins to appear (electrically) and affects multiple systems. Run it down to the parts store and have it checked.
You're kidding... Guess this is the first time in my life I've ran into an electrically controlled PS pump. So most definitely alternator/battery... Roger that. I'm gonna check the voltage for both when I get home. Well I suppose I can only truly check the alternator since my battery is definitely drained. So if I get 14v while car is running, alternator is good, correct?
System said it's a 3.5hr job. Did it in 2 hours. No serpentine tool or long bolts needed. Just a trusty Home Depot bucket and a pry bar. The power steering felt fine when I test drove it after and then when I went to load it back on the trailer I turned the car on again and it took a minute to work properly? She's still on the trailer until tomorrow morning but is there any way I damaged the power steering system by driving it with no power steering or anything through this process?
