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Warping rotors

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Old 04-15-2019, 01:08 AM
reildeal
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Warping rotors

Hello have a problem with my '08 R56 S. In the past 8 months I have had my front and rear rotors replaced 3 times due to webpage. Car is daily driver, to snd from work 40 miles each way almost all highway, so very little stop and go. I dont tailgate or ride the brakes, I like the exhaust sou d so actually engine brake mostly. Mechanic cant seem to be able to figure out the issue, has replaced calipers, rotors, etc disconnected parking cables (rear thinking not releasing all the time), latest suggestion has been DSC not working properly. I think I'm being taken or just throwing parts at a problem and not getting fixed. No dash lights or warning lights. Any one have similar experience?
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 05:37 AM
danraabe
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You can have a shop measure the runout on the bad rotors. They don’t really warp. That’s a myth. They more likely get friction material baked on to the surfaces which screws up the runout and makes them shake. I’m on my third set of rotors on our Sienna in 18 months. The mini has had the same problem. It’s not the calipers. And I use akebono pads. Replace the rotors and shoes. Try to run them in properly. That’s all I can think of. Best.
 
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2019, 07:33 AM
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In theory you check the rotors at install time. If they check out install new pads and you should be good to go. Is that what they are doing or are they reusing pads which may have already worn incorrectly? Are they using quality parts or the cheapest rotors they can slap on?
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:43 AM
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https://www.onallcylinders.com/2017/...yths-debunked/

3. Brake Rotors Warp

FALSE.

Rotors don’t warp.

Back in the 1970s, in what was probably a scene right out of the movie Dazed and Confused, someone came up with a theory about brake-rotor “warping,” and it totally stuck. Why? Probably because, in layman’s terms, it makes sense.

But then real life happens and this faulty explanation doesn’t hold up to scientific scrutiny.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 07:44 AM
Minidogger
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Another thing you can do is to monitor rotor temps. Get an IR thermometer (about $15) & after you get home check each rotor. If a caliper is binding up, then you will see abnormally high temp.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:27 AM
reildeal
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thank you all for the information, I do understand everyone's points and such, which I will be checking back with the "specialist" who is doing the work on my car. Just don't believe his statement about the DSC being the issue, the front rotors look to have been replaced 3 times since june of last year and the rears twice.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:45 AM
v10climber
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Sounds like the mechanic isn't bothering to troubleshoot the issue and is just throwing parts at the problem which is costing you a bunch of money. Find someone that will actually find the problem. There should have been no reason to replace all the rotors. They're not all having the problem. Also... like has been mentioned. Warped rotors can happen but it's super super rare. Most likely you have uneven pad deposits. Different brake pads may solve the problem. Use an IR thermometer to check the rotor temps after a drive. You'll notice a hot one. Could be a partially collapsed brake hose not allowing a caliper to release.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 02:31 PM
TheBigNewt
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I'm no brake expert but it sounds like there's something either wrong with your calipers messing up the new rotors or you're getting a bad bunch of rotors put on your car. I think that abnormal/uneven wear is what causes the shuddering. I remember years ago I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee that did that "warping" thing a few times real fast. Years later Chrysler offered a Class Action Suit Settlement due to their using defective brake parts.
 
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Old 04-15-2019, 03:04 PM
Capt_bj
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OP: what are you experiencing that you want to fix? Is it a 'pulsing' issue? This could be an ABS issue .... or even ABS working CORRECTLY if this is the first car you've owned with ABS .....

doing temp checks isn't a bad idea .... disconnecting the hand brake cables sounds really really dumb to me ... check they're not binding OK, but disconnect?????

If your mechanic is using the 'warp' line ...... welllllllllll

I'd find a new mechanic and/or start reading up on brakes!
 
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Old 04-22-2019, 01:48 PM
gchin
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First of all, find a mechanic who has lots of experience with Minis or at least BMWs.

Second, the mechanic should have experience and all the tools to troubleshoot brake problems for you.

This may be difficult to find and more expensive than your average mechanic, depending on where you live. Maybe you can get a local mechanic referral from this forum.
 
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