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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Hello, I have a 2011 Mini cooper s. When buying the car there was a tiny gap on the passengers side between the window and the rubber of the door frame? I apologize if I am describing this weirdly. It whistles very bad when I drive 70+ or when it is very windy outside (which is almost daily). I have tried putting weatherstripping there, as i don’t know how else to fix it, but it still whistles. The gap is big enough to where when i go through a car wash, water drips inside. Do i need to realign my door? Is this an easy fix? Any help would really be appreciated as I am going on a trip next week and would love to fix this issue before. Thanks!
Also i did attach a picture of the window from the inside of my vehicle.
I am wondering if the car had been in an accident earlier before you bought it and the door was improperly re-aligned? However I am sure you checked the Carfax for such. Correct?
Those door hinges are solid and all is constructed according to safety standards. I would take the car to a body shop or worse scenario get a feedback if you have a decent Dealer near by.
Just my two cents. Sorry I cannot be of more help. Obviously "something" is misaligned.
I am wondering if the car had been in an accident earlier before you bought it and the door was improperly re-aligned? However I am sure you checked the Carfax for such. Correct?
Those door hinges are solid and all is constructed according to safety standards. I would take the car to a body shop or worse scenario get a feedback if you have a decent Dealer near by.
Just my two cents. Sorry I cannot be of more help. Obviously "something" is misaligned.
Thank you! I had previously checked the carfax-no accidents. I may just have to take it in
somewhere and hope they can fix it.
It could be the window regulator motor just not pushing back enough laterally. Does the window go up and down without much effort from the motor?
I may suggest taking it to the dealer for a 1/2 hr of diagnostic time and then decide where to go from there. My dealer charges me $70 for an hour of diag time and usually lets me off the hook for a 1/2 hr charge. Then I go home and fix the car.
It could be the window regulator motor just not pushing back enough laterally. Does the window go up and down without much effort from the motor?
I may suggest taking it to the dealer for a 1/2 hr of diagnostic time and then decide where to go from there. My dealer charges me $70 for an hour of diag time and usually lets me off the hook for a 1/2 hr charge. Then I go home and fix the car.
That window does struggle to go up and down, it is extremely slow
Might be the window adjustment screws. There’s two screws that hold the bottom of the window. Might be enough play in it to allow you to loosen the screws and move it back slightly.
Only need to remove the outter door panel and you will see the access holes to the screws.
The front window glass' closing pressure can be adjusted. It is done from underneath the door and is not to be confused with the vertical and horizontal adjustment that is possible by loosening the two screws holding the glass to the mechanism which opens and closes it. Unfortunately newtis.info is down so I can't link to detailed instructions. The instructions are also within ISTA.
Edit:
This is not to say there is no structural damage or misalignement to the door. Nor that the adjustment is able to overcome this amount of gap. I just wanted to state the information.
Very (!) unlikely. If at all, it would be the mechanism which is driven by the motor and lifts/lowers the glass. All the motor does is provide a spinning impulsion which is immediately converted to push/pull forces acting on the bowden cables.
Might be the window adjustment screws. There’s two screws that hold the bottom of the window. Might be enough play in it to allow you to loosen the screws and move it back slightly.
Only need to remove the outter door panel and you will see the access holes to the screws.
I doubt this much gap is possible to overcome via these screws. They grip directly onto the glass and the contact surfaces are flat and hard. Also: I wouldn't want to exert any strain forces to the glass while fastening these screws. Even if the glass doesn't break immediately, it may do so at the next pothole.