R56 Preventing windows from freezing to door rubber seal?
Preventing windows from freezing to door rubber seal?
I had trouble REstarting my car with key fob out until I realized that the issue was the door was not closing all the way because the glass was frozen to the door window seal....
But I digress. How in heck do I prevent the window glass from freezing to the outside rubber seal of the door?
We have a 2012 and a 2009, but especially on the 09 MINI, the window rubber seals freeze to the glass, not allowing the windows that tiny 1/4" of up and down travel they need when the door is opened and closed. It's a real PITA.
Hence, when I was trying to "restart" the 09 MINI the car doors were actually not closed 100% of the way. Close enough to fool my eye, but not the car. The drivers door will "close" but if you were standing outside looking at the top of the window, its actually pressed up against the OUTSIDE edge of the plastic driprail and not tucked underneath it. I've driven all the way to work before with it like this before it thawed out enough for the window to move down and it was a royal pain.
Lately I've taken to just running a credit car along that glass/rubber interface and that unsticks the window. I am sure this can't be good for the door rubber thing, increasing wear a lot, but there seems to be no other choice.
There has to be a better way !
Mike
But I digress. How in heck do I prevent the window glass from freezing to the outside rubber seal of the door?
We have a 2012 and a 2009, but especially on the 09 MINI, the window rubber seals freeze to the glass, not allowing the windows that tiny 1/4" of up and down travel they need when the door is opened and closed. It's a real PITA.
Hence, when I was trying to "restart" the 09 MINI the car doors were actually not closed 100% of the way. Close enough to fool my eye, but not the car. The drivers door will "close" but if you were standing outside looking at the top of the window, its actually pressed up against the OUTSIDE edge of the plastic driprail and not tucked underneath it. I've driven all the way to work before with it like this before it thawed out enough for the window to move down and it was a royal pain.
Lately I've taken to just running a credit car along that glass/rubber interface and that unsticks the window. I am sure this can't be good for the door rubber thing, increasing wear a lot, but there seems to be no other choice.
There has to be a better way !
Mike
Same as ANY car...
You could use a light coating of vasoline (preferred in the north).... Some prefer various items in stick (some dealers have one that looks like a GIGANTIC ChapStick/LIPBALM) or liqulid form of various makes...some might suggest using $60 stuff from Germany... Lol..
But even a spray of "armour all" will work...
Just wipe it on...and remove the excess...
You could use a light coating of vasoline (preferred in the north).... Some prefer various items in stick (some dealers have one that looks like a GIGANTIC ChapStick/LIPBALM) or liqulid form of various makes...some might suggest using $60 stuff from Germany... Lol..
But even a spray of "armour all" will work...
Just wipe it on...and remove the excess...
You would use vasoline on the window/rubber interface so it can wipe all over your window as it went up and down?
I don't think I'll be trying that thank you very much !
Please reread carefully what I wrote. My door is not sticking to the body of the car, the window is freezing to the rubber seal that is on the top edge of the door (bottom horizontal surface of the window if you prefer)
This is where your arm would be resting if the window was rolled down.
Any type of "grease" would smear all over the window as it was moved up and down creating a permanent mess.
I don't think I'll be trying that thank you very much !
Please reread carefully what I wrote. My door is not sticking to the body of the car, the window is freezing to the rubber seal that is on the top edge of the door (bottom horizontal surface of the window if you prefer)
This is where your arm would be resting if the window was rolled down.
Any type of "grease" would smear all over the window as it was moved up and down creating a permanent mess.
When applied as a TRACE, no streaks...
Just telling you how it is prevented on most ANY car ever made...amourall type products are shorter lasting, and work...no greasy feel...but not quite as effective. Just make sure it gets on the RIGHT PART, not just on the exterior....
Just telling you how it is prevented on most ANY car ever made...amourall type products are shorter lasting, and work...no greasy feel...but not quite as effective. Just make sure it gets on the RIGHT PART, not just on the exterior....
ZippyNH, With all due respect, and I know you are trying to help here,(and I thankful for that) I don't think we are communicating well. There is no way, no how anyone should be recommending putting even trace amounts of vasoline on your WINDOW.
It's greasy. It will smear on your glass. If we were talking about other cars and the doors rubber seals sticking to the body of car then yes, maybe,
It's my WINDOW that is freezing to the horizontal, outside, rubber seal/weatherstrip.
Glass on rubber.
Glass=clear=good
Greasy glass=translucent/messy/reduced vision=bad :-D
Thanks
It's greasy. It will smear on your glass. If we were talking about other cars and the doors rubber seals sticking to the body of car then yes, maybe,
It's my WINDOW that is freezing to the horizontal, outside, rubber seal/weatherstrip.
Glass on rubber.
Glass=clear=good
Greasy glass=translucent/messy/reduced vision=bad :-D
Thanks
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