Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Help with terrible idle n14

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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 05:18 PM
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Help with terrible idle n14

I’m completely stumped my mini is driving me nuts one thing after another. I’ve recently cleaned the valves and I installed new plugs ngk 1422 and new coils . It doesn’t break up while accelerating just at idle. and it goes away if I keep idle above 1k . Please I’m lost as too what it could be I’m not throwing any codes
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 06:32 PM
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Double check the intake manifold, sealing well. Also all connections you removed. My guess is an intake leak, but should have thrown a code. Maybe later in the drive cycle.

I am guessing this particular behavior did not exist before your work?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by techman1
Double check the intake manifold, sealing well. Also all connections you removed. My guess is an intake leak, but should have thrown a code. Maybe later in the drive cycle.

I am guessing this particular behavior did not exist before your work?
idle has been acting up ever since I got the timing chain replaced. I’ll give everything a look over tomorrow morning .
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 11:23 PM
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Can you scan the vanos in real time to determine if timing is out? Could be retarded timing. Some of the cheaper timing tools are not very accurate and can leave the engine a few degrees out.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Scudder44
Can you scan the vanos in real time to determine if timing is out? Could be retarded timing. Some of the cheaper timing tools are not very accurate and can leave the engine a few degrees out.
I’ll see if I can tomorrow but would skipped timing cause my idle issue ? I have no other driving issues it’s just the horrible idle below 1k
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 12:46 AM
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Not necessarily skipped, just slightly out and not enough to trigger cam position sensors. To be honest there are so many causes of rough idle it is hard to tell from foums what to tell you, I just guess that if it started after timing chain replacement, then that is where to start. VC off and recheck timing, it is so easy to move a cam when tightening up the end bolt especially with the $50 tools from Ebay for example. I had to buy the Laser tool for mine as the cheap tool was a waste of money. Perhaps you could ask for a loan of one on here if you need it if someone is loca if you did the chain yourself with one of those toolsl? If you paid a garage to do the work ask them to check their work.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 06:49 AM
  #7  
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Take your oil fill cap off while the car is running. Does it have vacuum holding it down and or does the idle get worse? It could be timing related or a vacuum leak. If your pcv is toast it can cause the symptoms your describing.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by I like mini clubman's
Take your oil fill cap off while the car is running. Does it have vacuum holding it down and or does the idle get worse? It could be timing related or a vacuum leak. If your pcv is toast it can cause the symptoms your describing.
I thought of this too. I have a bit of rough idle, especially on cold or cooled down engine. The PCV in these go out and you probably need a valve cover. I have this exact issue at the moment, as I am waiting for a replacement to arrive. There is the option of trying to just replace the membrane. That’s what I’m going to try first to save some money.
Im not definitely stating that this is your problem, as mentioned, there lots of causes for rough idle.
check your timing since that was done recently. Check the back left area of your valve cover for oil seep on top, try the oil cap, and sometimes there’s an audible leak there too. Also check the high pressure fuel pump, this is a known issue as well.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 03:46 PM
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FWIW - A failing HPFP can also cause the symptoms you describe.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by GsxR1000
FWIW - A failing HPFP can also cause the symptoms you describe.
hmm so I ran torque scan on it and I was getting 744 psi at the most at idle and would go as low as 682psi at idle would this indicate hpfp ?
Also im getting p1497 p2188 and b2aa
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 05:18 PM
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Ok, your p2188 code is for too rich at idle, and the 01497 I believe is an unmetered air leak.
While I agree with GsxR1000 that the HPFP absolutely can cause the same symptoms, unfortunately there are several.
But, with the codes you are showing (I don’t know about the third one) leads me to think you probably have a bad PCV. Check that with the cap test and listen while it’s running for any hissing or sound of air escaping, it could even be a whistle. Also check the hose that goes from the PCV to the intake, that is known to fail too. If that doesn’t look like it, check your turbo charge pipes to make sure they are tight and not leaking.
That said, I’m not sure without monitoring mine, since I just don’t remember where my fuel rail pressure normally sits at idle. But when driving, iirc it’s usually somewhere between 1400 and 1800 psi. Just my gut feeling is that your fuel psi may be a tad low, but somebody else should probably chime in on that.
keep us informed and good luck.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
Ok, your p2188 code is for too rich at idle, and the 01497 I believe is an unmetered air leak.
While I agree with GsxR1000 that the HPFP absolutely can cause the same symptoms, unfortunately there are several.
But, with the codes you are showing (I don’t know about the third one) leads me to think you probably have a bad PCV. Check that with the cap test and listen while it’s running for any hissing or sound of air escaping, it could even be a whistle. Also check the hose that goes from the PCV to the intake, that is known to fail too. If that doesn’t look like it, check your turbo charge pipes to make sure they are tight and not leaking.
That said, I’m not sure without monitoring mine, since I just don’t remember where my fuel rail pressure normally sits at idle. But when driving, iirc it’s usually somewhere between 1400 and 1800 psi. Just my gut feeling is that your fuel psi may be a tad low, but somebody else should probably chime in on that.
keep us informed and good luck.
so I checked for a leak nothing took I take off checked everything everything snug unplugged Maf and gets worse so I’m sure that’s running right. But now my idle psi is like 1082 psi and it jumps back down to like 740 also took the oil cap off and there’s no pressure holding it on u can just hear the cams
 

Last edited by Brainpp; Dec 2, 2018 at 06:20 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 06:26 PM
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So here’s where I’m at 103.0 psi before cranking engine
744 psi jumping up and down sometimes to 640
give it the beans Highest like 1900
then idles at 1092 psi
I’m thinking it may be it because of the dip in psi at idle and also the idle after stepping on it anyone with knowledge on this please chime in I just refreshed the ignition system I’m so tired of this 😑.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 06:29 PM
  #14  
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Ok, well your PCV is probably fine. Unfortunately it sounds likely then that it may be the HPFP. Especially if the psi is bouncing around that much. I don’t see the year posted here, but they did extend the warranty on them. Unfortunately being an N14, you might have to pay for it. But it’s worth checking into.
Even if it’s not covered, I have seen some pretty good prices on Amazon for them.
 

Last edited by MrGrumpy; Dec 2, 2018 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Spelling corrections & added to
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 04:33 PM
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Just an update I replaced the fuel pump and still the same thing. I’m throwing p2188 rich at bank 1 and coolant sensor temp to low
 

Last edited by Brainpp; Dec 7, 2018 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 09:17 PM
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How much have you driven it? Did you reset the adaptations? I’m just spitballing here, but with the way that we have a “learning “ ECU, sometimes you have to drive it a bit for the computer to adjust to a new part. Sounds crazy but it’s true. Not for everything obviously, but for ECU controlled components it does adapt. You can try putting a few miles on it, and/or reset the adaptations.
Its just a thought, I could be way off base with the fuel pump and ECU, but maybe someone else can chime in on it.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2018 | 08:33 AM
  #17  
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Update .So I took it to a shop and they weren’t able to find anything initially because I told them new plugs and coil packs that I recently got installed there like less than 10k miles ago but my question that I have is the ground wire on the valve cover was bad I’m thinking maybe it took my coils out prematurely is this possible ? The cars scheduled to be serviced Saturday
 
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Old Dec 13, 2018 | 08:48 AM
  #18  
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I suppose it’s possible. I had a similar issue one time. I had just put new plug in less then about 6K miles before. I was having a terrible idle situation also. I could not figure it out. After eventually giving up, I took it to a shop and they eventually figured out that one of the plugs was bad. I was really surprised because they were pretty much brand new, but they said that occasionally you get one that may have a bad or faulty electrode or whatever. So really, it could eye well be something you had assytjat you eliminated.
good luck, I’m following along with my fingers crossed!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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Here’s hoping because I’m tired of this mini it’s my daily ha . I’m trying to find someone near me rn to let me borrow there coils just to test them
 
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Old Dec 13, 2018 | 08:54 AM
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Where are you located? I have an old set I keep around for emergencies.... I think one is bad but the other 3 are ok. They’re the OEM Delphi ones
 
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Old Dec 13, 2018 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
Where are you located? I have an old set I keep around for emergencies.... I think one is bad but the other 3 are ok. They’re the OEM Delphi ones
Los Angeles area
 
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Old Dec 13, 2018 | 09:00 AM
  #22  
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Oh dang. I’m up north by Seattle.
 
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