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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
I just changed the oil in my transmission to the Redline fluid about a month ago when I was doing a major service on the car. The clutch died earlier this week. All of the manuals, videos, and forum posts I have found say to drain the trans fluid. I have never drained it doing a clutch job on other cars. Is is required on the Mini trans for some reason? I can't think of a reason why I would need to other than to make it lighter. Also, aside from the guide tube, bushings, and rear main seal, is there anything else I should replace while at this stage? I have serviced the supercharger recently and changed the engine mounts.
Well, don’t you have to pull the axels to remove the transmission? With the axels out, the fluid could dump out the axel holes. If you don’t want to have to replace the guild, empty it into a container that you can put back in when done. I would drain it just to make it less messy.
Well, don’t you have to pull the axels to remove the transmission? With the axels out, the fluid could dump out the axel holes. If you don’t want to have to replace the guild, empty it into a container that you can put back in when done. I would drain it just to make it less messy.
Agreed. Trans removal can be messy, but I generally don't remove the fluid unless its time for a change. If you use the $90 transmission jack from Harbor Freight; removal becomes an doable one-man job or an easy two man job and significantly reduces the possibility of a spill. If you do spill, just be sure to top it off when you reinstall.
Thanks for the responses guys. I have another question now. The shaft on my new throw out bearing from valeo isn't cenetered. See below. Has anyone seen this before? Think I should send it back?
I don't think it really matters....I would just install the thing. The only time the throwout bearing it turning is when the clutch pedal is pressed in......not a big deal as far as I'm concerned.
Thanks. That is kinda what I was thinking but wanted a second opinion. I'm curious if anyone has had issues with the Valeo bearing. I noticed it is mostly plastic vs the stock one is mostly metal.
Thanks. That is kinda what I was thinking but wanted a second opinion. I'm curious if anyone has had issues with the Valeo bearing. I noticed it is mostly plastic vs the stock one is mostly metal.
I've got a bit over 10k miles on my valeo clutch kit and I haven't had any issues or signs of issues. Super happy thus far.
I've got a bit over 10k miles on my valeo clutch kit and I haven't had any issues or signs of issues. Super happy thus far.
how does the valeo feel? I just did mine, haven’t even put the car back together but the slave cyclinder is flushed. It feels super light though, way way lighter than The original clutch. Is that normal?
how does the valeo feel? I just did mine, haven’t even put the car back together but the slave cyclinder is flushed. It feels super light though, way way lighter than The original clutch. Is that normal?
i changed my clutch 2 months ago with Valeo and yes that’s how it feels super light compare to the stock.
Hello all, I've got a 2010 Clubman R55 which needs a clutch. I like a firm clutch pedal. My car is not an S, and i've been told the engine does not warrant the extra cost of a Stage 1 clutch but i really really don't want to spend $1500 and end up with a light clutch pedal. I'm concerned that you say the Valeo clutch gives a really light feel; can anyone tell me if the stock Mini clutch is stiffer? I'd pay more to get the stiff pedal, has anyone used a Stage 1 clutch in a base mini? Thank you, Bill
