Clutch replacement - best procedure? guide tube replacement?
#1
Clutch replacement - best procedure? guide tube replacement?
I'm going to do a clutch replacement myself. Before I do I just want to ask those who've done it before:
-comments on my parts list
-best procedure/online instructions (for home garage)
2002 Mini Cooper (not S)
The details:
clutch has shuddered for about a year (from a stop in 1st gear)
a few days ago vibration then noise when clutch depressed/engaged
then suddenly clutch pedal goes to floor with no resistance (no clutch action)
I'm assuming:
glazed flywheel (fortuntely 2002, not dual mass!) needs resurfaced
new clutch / pressure plate
new throwout bearing (was making the noise/vibration)
new slave cylinder (that's what actually failed)
* Do I need to replace the guide tube?
* Best procedure/instructions?
Thanks.
-comments on my parts list
-best procedure/online instructions (for home garage)
2002 Mini Cooper (not S)
The details:
clutch has shuddered for about a year (from a stop in 1st gear)
a few days ago vibration then noise when clutch depressed/engaged
then suddenly clutch pedal goes to floor with no resistance (no clutch action)
I'm assuming:
glazed flywheel (fortuntely 2002, not dual mass!) needs resurfaced
new clutch / pressure plate
new throwout bearing (was making the noise/vibration)
new slave cylinder (that's what actually failed)
* Do I need to replace the guide tube?
* Best procedure/instructions?
Thanks.
#2
I'm doing nearly the same job on my wife's 2003.
The guide tube is ~$20 and comes with the transmission main seal so you might as well replace it.
Pelican has a good writeup:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
It's rather involved with taking the front off of the car, and dropping the subframe first but you can refresh all your suspension stuff while you're in there if it hasn't been done before.
The guide tube is ~$20 and comes with the transmission main seal so you might as well replace it.
Pelican has a good writeup:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
It's rather involved with taking the front off of the car, and dropping the subframe first but you can refresh all your suspension stuff while you're in there if it hasn't been done before.
#3
Also, the discounts given by Classic Mini are very competitive for all your parts:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/classicauto
I ended up getting the ball joints from Pelican, but the clutch stuff will come from the above. Pelican charges a lot for fasteners and it can offset some of their other good pricing. I used poly control arm bushings that I pressed into the old brackets (barely). If you have a real press use that or get a machine shop with a press to do it.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/classicauto
I ended up getting the ball joints from Pelican, but the clutch stuff will come from the above. Pelican charges a lot for fasteners and it can offset some of their other good pricing. I used poly control arm bushings that I pressed into the old brackets (barely). If you have a real press use that or get a machine shop with a press to do it.
#4
#5
+1 on transmission jack. It doesn't ever hurt to have the right tools for the job.
I found it quite difficult to remove the lever from the shift fork to replace the plastic bushings.
I remember seeing someone on NAM had cracked the bellhousing casting trying to beat this pin out. It's not entirely obvious which way it should be removed. I was able to use some careful drilling to get rid of the pin (cobalt drill bits or at least TiN recommended), but then it took a gear puller to separate the lever from the fork. It was rusted on quite well.
I found it quite difficult to remove the lever from the shift fork to replace the plastic bushings.
I remember seeing someone on NAM had cracked the bellhousing casting trying to beat this pin out. It's not entirely obvious which way it should be removed. I was able to use some careful drilling to get rid of the pin (cobalt drill bits or at least TiN recommended), but then it took a gear puller to separate the lever from the fork. It was rusted on quite well.
#6
+1 on transmission jack. It doesn't ever hurt to have the right tools for the job.
I found it quite difficult to remove the lever from the shift fork to replace the plastic bushings.
I remember seeing someone on NAM had cracked the bellhousing casting trying to beat this pin out. It's not entirely obvious which way it should be removed. I was able to use some careful drilling to get rid of the pin (cobalt drill bits or at least TiN recommended), but then it took a gear puller to separate the lever from the fork. It was rusted on quite well.
I found it quite difficult to remove the lever from the shift fork to replace the plastic bushings.
I remember seeing someone on NAM had cracked the bellhousing casting trying to beat this pin out. It's not entirely obvious which way it should be removed. I was able to use some careful drilling to get rid of the pin (cobalt drill bits or at least TiN recommended), but then it took a gear puller to separate the lever from the fork. It was rusted on quite well.
While in there change the guide tube and plastic bushings for the fork arm, take care of as much stuff that you can afford because this job is pain in the rear.
It took me 3 weeks + to complete because I could only work on it a few hours at a time and when I did have the time I spent most of the time taking to people that would stop and ask what The HELL I was doing to my car lol.
Also some parts took a while to get to me.
I used the Pelican parts article, is very well put together but I also used other how to from all over the web there bits that Pelican doesn't cover.
I did not remove my struts or brake assembly, also I decided not to remove the drivers side axle, you do have to remove the front radiator carrier there is now way around this unless you have a lift but that's very easy. I would mark where and how the steering mates with subframe before taking that bolt out, also do not reuse that bolt get a new one if possible, the subframe removal is very easy just have someone guide the power steering reservoir as you lower it.
I did not have a transmission jack although I had a harbor freight very close by but I agree that it will make the job soooo much easier, later I found out that they had the engine brace, this will give you more room to work under the engine with out using a floor jack for the engine.
Take your time and rethink every step, labels and ziplock bags are a must, label everything trust me!!!
Crankshaft position sensor O ring, change it... 5 minutes and 2 to 4 bucks
Is a 12 hour job if you know what you are doing, I didn't so it took me 3 weeks lol. Good luck and try to have all of the parts in hand before you begin
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