Rear Intake VANOS replacement for P0012 - Tips and Tricks
#1
Rear Intake VANOS replacement for P0012 - Tips and Tricks
2009 Mini Cooper (Base) - 99300 kms, auto:
Started getting P0012 codes in the past few weeks. P0012 is an intake timing issue. I have previous success eliminating a P0015 (exhaust) code by replacing the front, intake VANOS and already had an extra VANOS solenoid (they use the same part for front/exhaust and rear/intake.) I picked both up for about $80 on eBay. No failure on the front one for about 8 months, so I assume they are of decent quality.
A few tips, if anyone wants to do it themselves:
... will update to confirm P0012 is gone ...
Started getting P0012 codes in the past few weeks. P0012 is an intake timing issue. I have previous success eliminating a P0015 (exhaust) code by replacing the front, intake VANOS and already had an extra VANOS solenoid (they use the same part for front/exhaust and rear/intake.) I picked both up for about $80 on eBay. No failure on the front one for about 8 months, so I assume they are of decent quality.
A few tips, if anyone wants to do it themselves:
- it's way harder to get to the back one than the front one;
- take off the hose that attaches to the air cleaner unit; it adds a step, but makes life WAY easier;
- to do this, loosen the top metal clamp with a screwdriver;
- the bottom one is hard to get to with a screw driver, so you may need a small ratchet with socket to loosen - I think it was a 7mm head;
- get it out of the way;
- I removed the black hose coming from the valve cover - forget what it's called, the EGR exhaust I think. It's one of those squeeze tab things - squeeze one side while holding the other with a screwdriver and it can be removed;
- It's hard to see the rear VANOS and screw holding it; it is also in the opposite configuration as the front, with the bolt holding it on the top rather than the bottom. It actually makes it easier to get to versus if it were on the bottom, but still way harder than the front. I checked the orientation with a mirror to see where everything is at. Most of what you'll be doing will be done blind.
- Using a 10mm socket and ratchet with extension, remove the 10mm bolt holding the VANOS solenoid - i did the paper in socket trick to hold the bolt in place, as if it were to fall, God knows how you would get it back;
- remove the electrical connector to the VANOS - again, it's upside down to the one in front, but you can use the one in the front as a reference as to what to press to remove;
- it takes a bit of force to remove the VANOS; I found twisting it a bit while pulling with rubber gloves helped, oil WILL leak out, so have something handy to wipe any spills;
- insert new VANOS and align the holder for the 10mm bolt;
- THIS IS where I had an issue and I hope you don't:
- by checking with the mirror, the hold for the bolt on the VANOS was off by a few millimetres, making it impossible for the bolt to thread and tighten;
- yeah, yeah, I know I get what I paid for with the part, BUT the front one didn't have this issue, so who knows;
- I ended up using a metal drill bit and drill to enlarge the bolt hole a bit to give the bolt more room to "catch";
- this eventually worked;
- note: clean off any metal shavings that get on the VANOS screens;
- tightened up the bolt to hand tight (it takes quite a few revolutions);
- attached electrical connector to VANOS (again, note that it is upside down compared to the front);
- reattached air intake hose - note: for the lower, rear clamp, it was really hard to tighten with a socket, so I used a combination of small screwdriver, hand with rubber glover and a socket alone with extension;
- reattached EGR hose to valve cover;
- cleared all tools;
- started up, no P0012 so far .....
- engine seems smoother but that may be a placebo effect ...
... will update to confirm P0012 is gone ...
Last edited by kurtsunn; 10-21-2018 at 06:10 AM. Reason: corrected typos
#3
The car was overall okay, but under stress you could feel a loss of power and notice the misfires.
I initially replaced all spark plugs and the coils for the cylinders that were misfiring. This helped, but eventually the P0015 and/or P0012 (VANOS timing issues) came back. The P0015 (front, exhaust) was more prevalent, so I addressed that first by replacing that VANOS. The P0015 was completely solved and it appeared to have helped or eliminated the P0012 problem for about 4-5 months.
Recently got P0012 and then replaced the rear/intake VANOS and have been CEL free since.
Overall, car seems to idle smoother and with better fuel economy. Around the same time went to Mobil-1 0w40 European Formula, so that may have also affected the fuel economy.
CEL free and happy.
#4
Thanks for the reply. Wife was driving home yesterday and the got a CEL and the half yellow engine. Loss of acceleration but she got the car home. When I checked the codes I'm getting the P0012. IT's cold in Jersey and the car has beem idling a little rough. I'm going to replace the rear solenoid and also the valve cover. There's a lot seepage on the cover and I'm thinkking maybe the PVC is shot as well. I'm hoping that's all it is. Car is 07 and has 180k miles on it. I'll try that first and go from there.
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