Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

No start r56

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Old Oct 6, 2018 | 07:06 PM
  #1  
Misses9098's Avatar
Misses9098
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No start r56

Hi there! I’m having some issues with my mini. It’s a r56 non s. The head gasket blew a while back which was fixed and working fine to our knowledge. Still wouldn’t start. We brought a mobile mechanic out to do a diagnostic and discovered that some of the hydraulic lifters (2 intake, 1 exhaust) were spewing oil, so we changed those and still a no start. My boyfriend has been working on the car for several months now and after every problem it’s a no start but it’s not something I can afford to tow to a mini dealer and get fixed. We think we need a leak down tester but can’t find any nearby as well. This is my Mini dream car and I would hate to sell it and not be able to get another for so long. Any and all help would be appreciated, and I can give more info when needed.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2018 | 07:14 PM
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So it blew a head gasket. Did it run after the head gasket was fixed? Or has it not started since? Was it running before that? And finally, are you getting any trouble codes? Or do you have a way to scan it?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2018 | 09:07 PM
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Misses9098
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Originally Posted by MrGrumpy
So it blew a head gasket. Did it run after the head gasket was fixed? Or has it not started since? Was it running before that? And finally, are you getting any trouble codes? Or do you have a way to scan it?
it didn’t run after the head gasket was fixed, it developed a fuel leak which was fixed with new seals. The timing was redone to bring it back to normal, just to be safe. It hasn’t ran since it initially broke down and after we swapped out the hydraulic lifters we expected it to work but nothing. We’re thinking the battery is affecting it so we took it to be charged, and it dropped 2 camshaft codes after we realized the battery wasn’t charged up well enough. Which, the battery is at autozone charging right now.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 05:35 AM
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Could you confirm how the timing was done?
are all sensors connected and tight?
what year is the car and how many miles on the car?
 
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
Could you confirm how the timing was done?
are all sensors connected and tight?
what year is the car and how many miles on the car?
the car is a 2007 Mini Cooper base model, 211k miles. The sensors are all connected and tight. Timing was done by putting a pin into the fly wheel to hold in place, the cams were positioned by hand and then tightened down. The chain was stretched from the crank over the top of the cams and slack was removed with the tensioner bolt.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 07:13 AM
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did you check the ground strap on the motor mount? did you check the small green wire connected to one of the valve cover bolts?

when you say the cams, were done by hand, how did you position them?
 
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Old Oct 20, 2018 | 05:32 PM
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My 02 did that,....then the other day my 07 did it.....after hrs of grumbling I thought..could it be ? and yes it was the saFETY SWITCH ON THE CLUTCH...Ooops solenoid falls off easily, I was amazed this had not been addres ed by Mini ..stick it back on and run a zip tie around
Hope that helps
Sorry in my haste I assumed u had a no starter motor issue
 

Last edited by outtaluck; Oct 20, 2018 at 05:38 PM. Reason: my mistake
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Old Oct 20, 2018 | 11:42 PM
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Scudder44
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Originally Posted by Misses9098

the car is a 2007 Mini Cooper base model, 211k miles. The sensors are all connected and tight. Timing was done by putting a pin into the fly wheel to hold in place, the cams were positioned by hand and then tightened down. The chain was stretched from the crank over the top of the cams and slack was removed with the tensioner bolt.
If you have not already done so, watch this and if you missed out any steps, take it to pieces and start again. If your timing chain had jumped off the cams or guides were broken, you may have bent valves, hence the leak/compression test requirement.
 
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