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REALLY bad Knocking in Engine

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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 11:59 AM
  #1  
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REALLY bad Knocking in Engine

Hello, I purchased a 2002 Mini Standard with 5 speed. The engine runs, but it has a REALLY bad knock. The knock is intermittent sometimes and sometimes its consistent. At first I thought it was the timing chain tensioner, but I have replaced that along with the oil filter housing. The old housing had a spring missing inside once I pulled it, so the oil pressure light was coming on. As of now, the engine is not throwing any ODBII codes. I changed the oil, but nothing helps. The knocking is so bad that I am afraid to drive it. Any help would be great!! Could the timing chain have slipped a tooth and the timing is off? Is it possible to change the timing chain without removing the engine?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/wbtAh1VufDp77otB9

Thanks

Gresh
 
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 06:22 PM
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A loud knock is almost always a rod bearing. I wouldn’t drive it or it may throw the rod right through the side of the block.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr
A loud knock is almost always a rod bearing. I wouldn’t drive it or it may throw the rod right through the side of the block.
When you say rod, you mean piston rod? Do you know if its possible to drop the lower end of the engine without taking it out of the car? Can I change the bearing without taking the engine out?I think if I decide to take it out, I am just going to replace the engine. I am trying really hard not to do that. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 07:00 AM
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Yes I mean piston rod. However, before you go tearing into anything I would verify that it is rod knock. I can’t hear what you are hearing. I would either get someone who knows about engines to listen to it or search the internet for rod knock and listen to a video of actual rod knock or you can post a video hear so others can listen and advise. As far as removing a piston from the lower end without removing the engine I will have to let someone else chime in on that. I’ve rebuilt V8s but have yet to tear into a mini engine. How many miles on your engine. If you really have a bad rod bearing I would be leery of just replacing the one. You could very possibly have others about to fail. Rod bearings normally go bad from oil starvation. If that’s the case the others may not be far behind. But what you are hearing may not be rod knock so investigate it thoroughly first. Good luck!
Sorry I just saw your video. It’s a little hard to distinguish from the top end noise but it does sound like rod knock. I would get Dow low with a stethoscope or screwdriver to the ear and determine if it’s coming from the bottom end of the engine.
 

Last edited by Tgriffithjr; Sep 20, 2018 at 07:03 AM. Reason: Additional info
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr
Yes I mean piston rod. However, before you go tearing into anything I would verify that it is rod knock. I can’t hear what you are hearing. I would either get someone who knows about engines to listen to it or search the internet for rod knock and listen to a video of actual rod knock or you can post a video hear so others can listen and advise. As far as removing a piston from the lower end without removing the engine I will have to let someone else chime in on that. I’ve rebuilt V8s but have yet to tear into a mini engine. How many miles on your engine. If you really have a bad rod bearing I would be leery of just replacing the one. You could very possibly have others about to fail. Rod bearings normally go bad from oil starvation. If that’s the case the others may not be far behind. But what you are hearing may not be rod knock so investigate it thoroughly first. Good luck!
Sorry I just saw your video. It’s a little hard to distinguish from the top end noise but it does sound like rod knock. I would get Dow low with a stethoscope or screwdriver to the ear and determine if it’s coming from the bottom end of the engine.
Thanks, I pulled the lower end today. 2 completely destroyed bearings and 2 that are about to join them. I can replace them without dropping the engine, so thats pretty good. I should have it back together in about a week or so. waiting on parts. Thanks for your help. Greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by gresh
Thanks, I pulled the lower end today. 2 completely destroyed bearings and 2 that are about to join them. I can replace them without dropping the engine, so thats pretty good. I should have it back together in about a week or so. waiting on parts. Thanks for your help. Greatly appreciated.
Be careful replacing bearings. You need to make sure and mic the crank and get bearings with the right clearance. Same with the rods, which could be bad also. The rod could be out of round or it might be fine.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2018 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr


Be careful replacing bearings. You need to make sure and mic the crank and get bearings with the right clearance. Same with the rods, which could be bad also. The rod could be out of round or it might be fine.
I gave the mini dealership the VIN for the car and they told me it was a 44mm STD bearing. Thats what I ordered. I am not going to worry a great deal about it. Even if I can get 50K miles out of it before it completely dies, that would be great. I have a 5 speed right now and i want to put in a 6 speed (that already have). Since I have to pull the engine to do that, I will just replace it then.
The bearings were in pretty bad shape on it though, so you may be right with the crank or the rods needing work as well. Since I need to pull the engine to check those, I am not going to worry about it until I decide to put in the new transmission. Thanks for your help.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by gresh
I gave the mini dealership the VIN for the car and they told me it was a 44mm STD bearing. Thats what I ordered. I am not going to worry a great deal about it. Even if I can get 50K miles out of it before it completely dies, that would be great. I have a 5 speed right now and i want to put in a 6 speed (that already have). Since I have to pull the engine to do that, I will just replace it then.
The bearings were in pretty bad shape on it though, so you may be right with the crank or the rods needing work as well. Since I need to pull the engine to check those, I am not going to worry about it until I decide to put in the new transmission. Thanks for your help.
Ok, sorry it took so long. I wound up pulling the engine and doing a complete rebuild. I replaced the crankshaft, which was worn so much it was out of tolerance. The rods we OK. I replaced the crankshaft bearings and rod bearings and all of the seals and gaskets and clutch. I started the install back into the car today. The entire top side is done and tomorrow I have to do the bottom hookups and install the axles.
 
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Last edited by gresh; Oct 27, 2018 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 07:01 PM
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I assume you replaced the rings and honed the cylinders?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2018 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr
I assume you replaced the rings and honed the cylinders?
New rings, no honing. Didnt do the valve seats either. I had to take a trip and now its getting cold. I figured what the heck. Compression is good in the cylinders before the new rings, so it should be OK.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2018 | 07:54 PM
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Good luck and thanks for the update!
 
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Old Nov 3, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by gresh
New rings, no honing. Didnt do the valve seats either. I had to take a trip and now its getting cold. I figured what the heck. Compression is good in the cylinders before the new rings, so it should be OK.
UPDATE*** The 5 speed is back together. I wound up destroying the clutch because I didnt align it properly, so I had to take the transmission back out and replace the clutch. 1 day to remove the transmission, 30 seconds to switch out the clutch. That was a hard lesson learned. If you do a transmission rebuild or anything that you have to remove the clutch, take the time to align the clutch. Its worth it!!!! Out side of that small setback, the engine is back together, the transmission is mated CORRECTLY this time and all is back in the car. Road tested today and its purring like a kitten. I am going to run about 500 miles on it, then do an oil and transmission fluid change. Then I'm putting a for sale sign on it.
Now, on to the automatic. Anyone know where I can get the transmission shift lever for a 2002 mini base? I am all set to put this thing back together and realized that it doesnt have the bolt to lock the shift cable in place on the transmission. I cant find it in the junk yard or online. Thats the only part that I need and I cant install the engine until I get it. I may have to swap out the automatic for the 6 speed, just to get it on the road if I cant find the part.
 

Last edited by gresh; Nov 3, 2018 at 04:24 PM. Reason: add photo
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 05:18 AM
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Can’t you manufacture a bolt? Excuse my ignorance if you can’t.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2018 | 07:33 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Tgriffithjr
Can’t you manufacture a bolt? Excuse my ignorance if you can’t.
Yeah, I tried once and the bolt broke because the hole in the middle that the cable runs through took too much of the bolt out. I think I can maybe use a cable tied down or something like that. Ill figure something out. Thanks
 
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Old Nov 16, 2018 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by gresh
Yeah, I tried once and the bolt broke because the hole in the middle that the cable runs through took too much of the bolt out. I think I can maybe use a cable tied down or something like that. Ill figure something out. Thanks
RESOLVED!!! I found the bolt in the bucket of misc stuff that came with the car. All back together now.
 
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Last edited by gresh; Nov 16, 2018 at 07:51 PM.
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