So I recently had my Mini Cooper S (R56) diagnosed with wastegate malfunction. I have an idea of how the whole thing works and operates but still kinda new to car stuff. I randomly get a half power warning lamp and the ***** get cut from my car for about a minute then the lamp goes off. I’ve noticed some generalized weakness throughout however. The mechanic said he found a different turbo used from an idientical Mini from a Pull-a-part place but I have some reservations:
1) If there is a problem with this gen models turbocharger why would I get another that could potentially go out?
2) if it’s just the wastegate, could I buy a higher performance turbo cheaper (since only the wastegate is bad) without having to upgrade exhaust etc. and spare myself buying another faulty turbo from Mini
High performance parts seem to run around 500. Is there one that’s best?
what are yalls thoughts? What’s my best course of action?

 

1st off no performance turbo is $500. Most hybrid or k04s are closer to $2000. The stock K03 is a great turbo for the 1.6 in stock form. If the problem is actually your wastegate then just get a new one? No reason to replace the turbo for a bad wastegate. Pelican has the wastegate for $73.75. If your mechanic is saying you need to replace the turbo because of the valve you need a new mechanic. Chances are he has 0 experience with Minis or euros in general and if he doesnt know that the wastegate is replaceable then he shouldnt be working on a Turbod car

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/11657593273.htm?pn=11-65-7-593-273-M244&SVSVSI=6344

 

So many words... that linked part isn’t even the wastegate, it is the diverter valve.

While you can replace the turbine housing on the turbo to fix a loose wastegate link, if I was going to go through the trouble, I would just replace the whole turbo and get some performance benefit, too.

JMTC seems to be popular around here:
http://jmtcperformance.com/cooper/r5...nge/induction/

 

 

More like ~$800 including core charges for an OEM sized turbo. You will also want to replace the oil supply and return lines, have studs and nuts on hand, and maybe some other little bits.

If you are not planning on keeping the car for much longer, they also sell replacement turbine housings:
http://jmtcperformance.com/jmtc-repl...haust-housing/
http://jmtcperformance.com/jmtc-wastegate-actuators/

You COULD replace just the turbine housing and wastegate, and be done.

 

Just my opinion.... but for about $900 you can buy a brand new OEM not a remanufactured.... don't forget all the gaskets, fasteners and feeds you should also replace. Bolts on, codes go away.... and the car will run like new assuming everything else is on par.

 

Since I just went through this all, I'd recommend a more thorough diagnosis of the actual problem.

You can pull the upper O2 sensor, stick a boroscope in there, apply vacuum to the actuator, and see if the wastegate closes properly. What seems to be typical is the "hinge" created by the shaft the flapper swings on wears to an oval shape and causes either bind or the flapper not lining up. If that's the case, you need to replace the turbo or at least the turbine housing.

If that tests out fine, you need to check the rest of the system. Next up from the wastegate actuator is the line that runs down to the boost solenoid under the intake manifold. I guess the lines can collapse under vacuum if they get oily. The solenoid itself you can apply a vacuum to, pop 12v on, and make sure that works. That attaches to a vacuum reservoir that I haven't heard goes bad. Then there's a line that goes up to the actual vacuum pump on the top left of the motor (driven similar to the HPFP, but the other cam.) The upper port on that goes to the brake booster, the lower port goes to the boost control system. Make sure you're getting vacuum from that with the motor running.

As for my car, it was building boost slowly. I immediately jumped to the conclusion that the wastegate was bad and ordered a new turbo. I went through all the checks above, found nothing wrong, put the whole thing back together, and it's working great. I changed nothing, replaced nothing. Go figure. Small restocking fee for the turbo I don't need, don't mind paying it.

EDIT: only click that first hyperlink. The rest were added automatically my this forum. Gotta get paid somehow, I guess...

 

I didn't know before doing some reading in the past half hour that the wastegate is replaceable or even what it was. In fact, I've never worked on a turbo. However, I have completely rebuilt two engines (VW and Triumph Spitfire). one transmission (Triumph TR3), and at least one carb (BMW long ago), diagnosed and fixed front and rear suspensions on about half a dozen cars, replaced one timing chain, guide assembly and tensioner (R56), pulled and cleaned fuel injectors (Audi), correctly diagnosed and fixed about 50 other issues on/in the Mini, repaired a break in a Volvo exhaust pipe in the middle of the night on a secondary highway in Bumfuque, Kansas using a discarded coffee can I found along the road, correctly diagnosed and fixed (with one hand) the headlights suddenly going out in the TR3 in a blizzard at 15 degrees at night when the alternative was possibly getting run over by a snowplow, got the electrical system working on the same TR3 in the rain, in a business suit, by doing the wiring diagram in my head and simply opening the hood and going straight to the right wire. Et cetera. And I won't even get into what I can do repairing a PC or a network that you can't.

I never know ANYTHING about any repair until I start researching and doing it. But what I do know is that I am a lot brighter than you are (I'll take that back if you tested close to 800 on the verbal or math SAT or graduate record exam or were ever a member of MENSA).

And one thing that being very, very bright has taught me is that disparaging someone who simply asks a question is a sign of poor manners, insufficient intelligence, and insecurity about the first two.