This doesn't seem to make any sense to me. Can anyone give their two cents as to what may be going on?

2012 Mini Cooper S Hatchback. The car has about 55,000 miles on it.

I had scheduled maintenance due in February. On Feb 1, my CEL came on. I figured that was normal, and scheduled the service.

Car got new spark plugs, but no other big work. CEL was still on and Mini would not diagnose for free.

A few days later the car was sputtering at start, and the half engine cut-off light came on. Power was cut to 50% and the shaking was pretty crazy. Obviously something wrong with the car.

I grabbed a scan tool and found p0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, and p0304.

No other codes. I cleared the codes and now the car runs fine.

I wonder if the CEL was due to the spark plugs needing to be changed, and the dealer would not reset the codes. Now that the codes were reset the car runs the way it's supposed to???

Seems far fetched and I feel like I have no idea what I'm talking about. Any advice is welcome!

Thanks all!

 

Welcome to the forum and the world of Mini lol....keep an eye on the oil

 

Those codes are for misfires, The P300is for random misfire. My bet is HPFP

 

Thank M2B! Mini Ontario said I had a leak at the front main seal, but two trusted mechanics could not find anything. I'll check on my own. Good idea!

 

Does one not normally see 300 along with 301-304? I expected 300 was "problem!" and 301-304 was "problem here:"

How can I get a guage on the HPFP? I know in CA it is warranted to 70,000 miles or more, but with no codes now, and good running engine, how do I move forward?

Just wait and see what happens next?

 

Not really sure on the Hpfp , I think you would see other problems before it got to the misfire part, but I guess it’s possible’

I think I would be checking the plugs ‘ Just to see what they look like , possible the tech drop a plug, ducking it up !

If you double check them just make sure you torque them’ when putting them back in

20 - 22 ft lb, or 1/4 turn after plug 'bottoms' out, I’m pretty positive that’s for the n18 as well I would double check

 

This is a great forum guys, thanks. I used to troll around the Hyundai Tiburon forums a LOOOONG time ago. Brings me back! Cars were easier to fix back then haha

 

The problem with the HPFP’ it can be very hard to diagnose, in most cases it’s pretty easy, if lucky you’ll get all the classic symptoms of a bad pump! In other cases, people spend lots of money and lots of time trying to hunt down. If the dealer can’t replicate the problem it’s not covered under warranty because it’s technically not a warranty item anyways, it’s a TSB,

In my case I was getting thermostat housing/temp sensor codes , so I replace the hole housing unit. Clear the codes and drove fine for about a week! same codes came back so I would just clear them & it would take it out of limp mode’ then I started noticing anything over 4500 rpm’s I was getting really bad detonation. But it was not throwing any codes, so I did ever thing I could think of , put new plugs new coils ‘ then we thought maybe it was the tune’ want around an around on the tune idea ‘long store short after a few months of dicking with it’ I replaced the in tank pump new fuel filter an the HPFP an it fixed the problem

It’s a fun little game hahahahahah

 

When my wife's HPFP went, everything big boost said happened. I did put dash command on it and watched the pressure. I noticed that not only was the pressure a little lower than it used to be at various times but it dropped quite a bit more than it used to just as you gave it gas. The newer Bosch pump on my car has no drop ever.
Try monitoring it for a while.

 

Welcome to the forum gingerandodie7

I'm still learning so I'm seeing what is discussed.