Good Day,

I have gotten myself into a hell of a problem. I had a very good friend of mine ask me about fixing his mini at my shop. This typically out of my wheel house but I have a shop and he is a good friend who does not have a lot of money. at 39k his 2011 R56 cooper s lost the timing chains and bent the valves. In my search I managed to get a used engine from a 2012 R55 club man S which according to all the research I had done would fit just fine and it did. It idles and so on very well however once it starts moving it falls on its face. I took it to my local Euro shop as they have a very well regarded mini tech he started comparing things from the old motor to the new. Turns out the HPFP on the new motor puts out to much fuel pressure and the old HPFP will not fit the new motor without a head swap. That being said the old head is ruined and the engine assembly had to go back for the core return. I did manage to strip most of the parts off of it first should I need any of those. The main issue we have is the sensor on the fuel rail is not seeing the appropriate pressure. I need to know if there is some way to tell the DME to control the HPFP pressure down to what the DME/Motor Needs to see? This guy really needs his car to get to work and feed his family Id really like to help him out without sending him back to Mini if possible as he was quoted 13.5k to fix the car which they then declined to work with him at all on that outrageous price.

 

Going to move this to the Gen2 Stock Problems/Issues area.

 

when my Countryman was having issues with the HPFP and after three replacements with used ones, it turned out to be the sensor on the fuel rail.

try putting the original one back and see if that changes anything. having the upgraded HPFP is a good thing in terms of longevity. You might have to "update" the ecu program to account for the new set up.

the fuel pressure I used to get was around 75MPsi.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ystem/FaFDXtpV

 

I found out today that in march of 2012 they were switched over to a new pump completely and are completely non compatible according to the Tech at the Mini Dealer who seems pretty bright but also may just be going "by the book" According to him there is nothing I can do and I need to put a motor for a R56 into the car as the end of the cam and the head are different and I cannot put the old pump back in. I called the yard I got the Motor from and they cannot tell me the exact build date of the car but they did say I could have the DME for $115 if I wanted to try that. From what it sounds like the drivers in the DME are non compatible with the different manufactures fuel pump. Has anyone ever used the motor from a Post March 2012 car in a pre Mar 2012 car?

Also Thanks for the link that is some very useful information. I wonder if I can trick the car somehow into thinking it has the other pump on it?

 

The DME itself is not going to work. it is matched to the CAS and keyfob.

here is the wiring diagram showing the mapping to the DME. I can also suggest looking at the resistance of the two pump.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ystem/CkWtJMJk

 

So from the looks of this it would appear that the DME is using different pin-outs to control the Volume control valve. I wonder if the DME's changed from Bosch to Continental or if I can re wire the connector at the DME to the other style pump? I have a hard time believing I am the first person to do this but at the same time I have not found anything on people who have done this.

 

My take on this is the new DME has moved pins. Try getting resistance values on the pumps. You could also see where are the wires on these terminal/pins go to.

 

That is the next step here. I pay for and pick up the car this week sometime to tow it back to my place and I'll see what I can come up with. Fingers crossed I don't have to source and change out the engines again.

 

Yeah that is a tough one. Hopefully all comes out good. Where you located anyway?

 

I am just south of Madison WI I might just put a motor in my Outback (just threw a rod) so I can let the customer drive it so I can take my time on getting it right.

 

Before you crazy with it. Try putting the original fuel rail pressure sensor back. You never know if the replacement motor has issues of its own.

 

I do have the one from the original motor Ill give it a go before I order another motor. the good news is this one came with a parts and labor warranty it does not cover nearly the time I have into it but at least I wont have to do it completely for free.

 

Oh nice...check car-part.com for parts if that doesnt work.

 

Just to keep anyone who cares updated. At this point I need to install a pre 03/12 motor into the car. I am currently waiting for the warranty department of the company I got the engine from to get a hold of me with a another unit. It has been over a week since I filed the paperwork with them so I have a suspicion that they are having troubles finding a engine for it.

 

I found this listing on car-part.com if that helps the process.

2011
Engine Assembly
Mini Cooper Clubman 1.6 AT (MINOR MNT.WELD.)[-PAN&V.CVR][EXCH] 18,806 A 12650B $2200 Diamond Auto Parts USA-WI(Fond-duLac) Request_Quote 1-888-236-7731 Request_Insurance_Quote

I think rebuilding the engine is the cheapest rout. I've done it many times and it isn't bad of a job.

 

That might help however I got this one through LKQ so I don't know if they are going to make me wait until they get a car in that has the correct engine or if they will buy it from another supplier.

When we looked into the engine rebuild between the parts and my labor the used engine was substantially cheaper than a rebuild. That being said had I known all of this would happen I would have done it differently. LKQ took the core quite a while ago and I don't even know if getting it back is a option.

 

oh...LKQ is pretty good with customer service.you could go into their website again and trying finding one. then give them a call directing them to the engine you find.

 

Oh yea they have always treated me and now my shop well I have never had a issue. This is most certainly the exception and not the rule when dealing with them.

 

Figured I would post a update. I have been talking with LKQ almost weekly since finding out that the engine we have will not fit at all. They have yet to get in a car with a engine that is compatible with this car. From what I can see only a 2011 will work. They are willing to refund me on the engine we have however there will be no coverage of my labor in the instance that I return the engine. That being said I need to get this guys car done he has been super understanding and somehow surprisingly not angry at all with the situation. I am going to start scouring for a engine now also if anyone has a head for a 2011 s apparently I can use that with the stock fuel pump and it will work as well as the lower ends are the same.

 

I got a new correct engine assembly. Got everything installed and car runs great. Now the 1-2 shift is garbage (6 speed auto) the car was without power for quite a while it did not run when I got it however I really doubt that the engine and trans were **** at 39k I did do a fluid and filter change when we did the engine. Do these things need to do some kind of parameter relearn with the new fluid or filter? I have found places saying yes and places saying it may correct it self within a few days. I really do not want this thing to crap out a trans I really wish I had some kind of factory capable scan tool to use with this thing.

 

Niice...good job :-)


How did you check the fluid level?

 

 

now that you drive it, check the fluid level again...The procedure is to fill it while engine is running till fluid starts seeping. was that done? finally, you should check for codes or pending codes even if the light isnt on.

 

 

when I installed a tranny on my CMS, i did it while the engine was running...The same was true when I did a 99 cabrio last week