Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

R56 Won’t Start

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Old Mar 2, 2018 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
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R56 Won’t Start

I’ll try and keep this short and any advice / suggestions are appreciated.

2009 Cooper S, 90,000 Miles. All stock

High pressure fuel pump was just replaced under warranty about 500 miles ago.

Car was running great - I parked it in the garage last weekend then had to move it to get my ATV out. Started the Mini and moved it from one side of the garage to the other - zero issues. The only thing is that it was cold out (-4° Fahrenheit).
That same day I went to start the car and it wouldn’t start. It cranked normally but just wouldn’t fire. No odd noises or anything odd just wouldn’t start (would crank but wouldn’t catch).

I left it and came back the next day and tested everything (fuel, spark, etc.). Long story short after looking at it for a while I figured the timing chain had jumped a tooth and it was out of time.

Fast forward - new timing chain installed and still the same thing; it’ll crank but won’t start.

Checked the compression and I only have 30-35 in 1,2, and 3 and 90 in 4.

My best guess now is that I have some bent valves but I’m not too excited about tearing into this thing again without knowing for sure that’s the problem. Plus the way it stopped running doesn’t make sense for a bent valve.

Just looking for any suggestions on this as it’s starting to get annoying and expensive.

Thanks in advance.

 
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Old Mar 2, 2018 | 03:24 PM
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suggestions:
1) squirt a bit of oil in the cylinders and re-do the compression test ("wet").
2) if compression still low then do a leak-down test, or visually check the valves with a borescope.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2018 | 07:10 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for the help - I got the car running.

I am still not 100% certain on the original problem or the secondary problem but I am happy to have the car back!

Thanks again - if anyone cares and wants to hear more about it let me know and I can write what I think happened.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 05:16 AM
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please let us know...this is the point of this forum
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 03:29 PM
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It's a longish explanation but here is a bit more information:

I am still not convinced that the original issue was the timing chain but the car acted like it was out of time. I checked everything else and the only thing that made sense to me is that the timing chain jumped a tooth. The top guide was intact but it did have some broken pieces on it. I had initially checked everything I could think of and I did a compression test (they were all around 30) - I did not do a wet compression test but I should have (I already convinced myself it was the timing chain).

With that, the car got a few new items: timing chain, front crank seal, water pump, turbo oil line, and the gaskets for the oil filter housing.

While I was doing the timing chain I went ahead and took off the intake and dumped some sea foam onto the intake valves. I had done this twice and I knew that the sea foam would end up on the pistons but I didn't think much about it. Once everything was reassembled I had turned the motor over (both by hand and later with the starter - mostly to check the timing but also to purge the sea foam out of the pistons).

Once it was completely back together I tried it and got nothing - that is when I posted the first post. I assumed it was a bent valve or a bad head gasket. With squawSkiBum's suggestion I did the wet test and had compression back. I put the plugs back in and the car started up. Once all the oil burned out of the cylinders the car was running fine - there was a tick from one of the intake valves but that cleared up fairly quickly.

Here is what I think happened: Initially it might have been the timing chain but I am still not certain on that. After it was back together I think the sea foam on the pistons washed away all the oil from the cylinder walls and that is where I was losing the compression the second time - once I dumped the oil on the pistons and turned the engine over a few times I got compression back and the rings were able to do what they are supposed to do. I know it's a bit of a long shot but I'm not really sure how else to explain it.

At this point, I have 150 miles on the car and it's been running good!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 05:50 PM
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Thanks for the update! Glad you have it running again. What was the compression once it came back?
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by squawSkiBum
What was the compression once it came back?
160 - 175

On a side note; I already picked up another Mini thinking this one was down for a while (I didn’t realize how much I missed the thing)!
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 07:52 PM
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I bought a clubman not long ago and believe it or not, the timing was 180 deg off. The car started and ran. Of course CEL was on.

Even with a tooth off, it should've started.

Well...glad it worked out and keep an eye on the oil level.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 08:06 PM
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How did you figure out the timing was 180 out?

Originally I thought the timing chain had broke (that's what the engine sounded like to me) and later just assumed it had jumped a tooth.

I am honestly still trying to figure out what happened to it when it wouldn't start the first time - I think it has something to do with the cold and the very short run time.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2018 | 08:16 PM
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When i got the car from the auction, it didnt sound right and no matter how much gas i give it, it didnt rev too hight. So i decided to check the timing and the cams were off big time. Once i set it, it ran like butter and was amazed and thankfull the valves didnt hit.
 
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