clunk from front suspension over uneven roads
clunk from front suspension over uneven roads
I have an R56 Cooper s 2007 Auto, that has developed a clunking when going over uneven surfaces as low speed. Its a rattle type clunk as if something loose in suspension. Tie rods are replaced, drop links replaced today and still it persists. Any ideas?
I've been installing front sway bar bushings on these cars more and more over the past few years.
Jack the front of the car up, remove one wheel, and grab one end of the sway bar and push/pull the bar back and forth, chances are that's where your clunk is.
If you find that those are the failure point, you'll need the 24mm bushings:
Powerflex Sway Bar Bushings
Jack the front of the car up, remove one wheel, and grab one end of the sway bar and push/pull the bar back and forth, chances are that's where your clunk is.
If you find that those are the failure point, you'll need the 24mm bushings:
Powerflex Sway Bar Bushings
The parts themselves aren't too expensive, but you need to drop the subframe to replace them. We charge about $300-350 to replace them, but if your subframe is going to be down I would take the time to do the front control arm bushings as well. They're probably not bad, but for $86 in parts and a little more labor they'll never need to be touched again.
I had to replace ball joints and shocks to get rid of my clunking, in addition to the listed items above (at around 80,000 mi).
Trending Topics
Sway bar links have been done. Just a thought - I changed a wheel bearing recently and jacked up only one side to do it. Is it possible that by undoing control arms etc and putting back together with only one side jacked up, that I created an imbalance in the suspension tensions when put back together. Should both sides be jacked and on axle stands when working on suspension - due to stresses and load etc. I ask, because it seems like this really only started after the wheel bearing replacement . Thoughts?
Sway bar links have been done. Just a thought - I changed a wheel bearing recently and jacked up only one side to do it. Is it possible that by undoing control arms etc and putting back together with only one side jacked up, that I created an imbalance in the suspension tensions when put back together. Should both sides be jacked and on axle stands when working on suspension - due to stresses and load etc. I ask, because it seems like this really only started after the wheel bearing replacement . Thoughts?
If you feel like doing a quick check, jack up the front end (both sides) take off one wheel, grab the sway bar and try to push it side to side across the car, if there is an audible clunk or you feel any lateral play the bushings are bad.
Usually you want to jack up the whole axle when working on suspension. It helps the bolts line up because you are right, the load on one side will mess up your bolt holes a bit. Things won’t line up. Like if you were replacing the shocks, that lower bolt hole won’t line up. I know because this happened to me. In your case though I don’t think it will matter. So if you’ve already replaced the links and the sway bar bushings you need to look at replacing the lower transmission mount. There is a TSB on this “clunking” noise. The reported fix is sway bar bushings and transmission mount. Good luck!
Interestingly, the temperature has increased 6-10 degrees over the last 2 days (in UK) and it appears to have almost disappeared. Its been freezing or around zero since I bought the car. 6 weeks ago. This reinforces my thought that its bushes somewhere?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
spurvis
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
5
Jan 31, 2008 08:52 AM
LordOfTheFlies
Suspension
13
Jan 28, 2007 05:08 PM




