Random notes from installing the Ryephix #2 this morning.

1. IT WORKS!!!! I don't detect a yo-yo any more!

2. Removing the throttle body makes it easier to get the intercooler horn/bypass valve assembly off. There's a black steel bracket on half of the throttle body that prevents being able to remove the TB easily. Tip - remove the 13mm bolt that holds the TB bracket (it's under the throttle body - check around and you'll find it) and you can twist the throttle body out of the way. I parked mine on the air cleaner assembly. BE SURE TO PLUG THE CONNECTOR BACK IN WHEN YOU REINSTALL THE TB! This is also a good time to look at the tube that goes from the TB to the supercharger intake and smooth out any plastic blobs that may be present.

3. The bypass valve diaphragm housing phillips screws have red loctite on them. I used blue loctite when I reinstalled the screws.

4. The top housing on the bypass valve that has to be pried off is pretty brittle in 48* weather. After cracking a couple of the catches, I took it inside and let it warm up. No better. So I poured some boiling water over the plastic part and it made it flexible enough to pop off without any further problems. I swapped the spring and snapped it back together. Then I loaded the broken catches with epoxy - that ought to hold them.

5. There are sharp pieces in there. Be careful. (my finger hurts...)

6. My bypass valve butterfly was mis-adjusted and didn't close fully, thus preventing me from reaching full boost. I adjusted it and used blue loctite again on the adjustment screw.

More as I think of them...

 

Ryan's Bypass Valve Spring Upgrade has got to be in the running for The Best Mod Under $25!

Can't wait to do mine. Thanks Ryan and thanks CoryB for the great detail!

Theo

 

Thanks CoryB, let me know. Are you going to be at the Pulley Party in Richmond on 11/20?

 

I'm hoping to stop by for a while on Saturday if all goes as planned. I'm not having any work done, but I wanted to meet everyone and hang out for a while.

 

Cory - glad everything worked out in the end! Yes, the bypass valve diaphragm housing cap IS brittle, you definitely have to be careful as you found out!

 

Spings
Ryephile, are you making these springs yourself as in winding them using tempered steel?

 

norm03s ----> uhh, kinda I'm taking an existing spring design and modifying it for shape and length to conform my design criteria.

Grrrr, talked to my suppliers. Raw springs are a week out, and Classic has my pile of new bypass valves on order. [twidles thumbs waiting....]

 

Installed the spring today and...HEAVEN! No more yo-yo/hesitation in the 3500 to 4500 rpm range! Seems a little more responsive, too. THANK YOU, RYAN!

A couple of installation notes:

- I hate those BMW hose clamps!

- Take an extra minute to clean out your intercooler fins. Rather buggy in there.

- Use a magnetic tool. It saved me twice!

- I removed the throttle body and it made it so much easier to get at the bypass valve to disconnect the black tube. I hate BMW hose clamps!

- My September 03 build '04 MCS had a reasonably well-aligned butterfly in the bypass valve. I did need to adjust the set screw (2.5 mm hex) to get full closure. Basically, I held the valve up to the light and adjusted the set screw to fully close the butterfly, then I opened it until I saw a smidge more light coming through -- the slightly backed it off.

- I used a hair dryer to heat the diaphram cap before prying it off. This helps soften the plastic a little. Then just evenly pry up the cap with small screwdrivers. TAKE YOUR TIME HERE!

- Reassembly was much easier. I hate BMW hose clamps!

NOTE: I have modest mechanical skills and have done my own basic maintenance and repairs. This procedure was a good challenge and took time and patience to complete. If you are not comfortable with pulling things off engines and putting them back on, you may wish to have an experienced mechanic do the job using the Ryephix Bypass Exchange Upgrade.

I hate BMW hose clamps,

Theo

 

I'm with you. For the record, the easiest way to get them off is to pop a small screw driver into the release part and twist. To get them back on, use plyers to pull both sides together and use the screw driver to hold the one side of the clip up so it can clip onto the other side. If you don't understand, you will once you try it.

 

Glad everything worked out Koopah!

Yes, BMW hose clamps are annoying. Thanks for adding your tips for everyone else to learn from!
Also, I found a limited supply of spring stock today - enough for a couple handfuls of Kits. I've already contacted those on the top of my reservation list. Let me know if you're interested but haven't PM'd me yet.

 

Yeah. I figured out how to get them off ok. It's just putting them back on that bunches my shorts! Especially when you are working in tight spaces (black hose on bypass valve) and don't have room for pliers and a screwdriver.

What I can't figure out is why BMW is compelled to use this kind of clamp when the screw-type clamps are much easier. Hmmm... Maybe a "quick-snap" type of tool is used to connect them. This would be easier on the assembly line...instead of a power screwdriver.

Gotta hit the sack for a TSD rally tomorrow. Must...drive...MINI...NOW!

Theo

 

I've seen those clamps before. They come on SeaDoo personal watercraft. i used to work on those a long time ago. there is a special pair of pliers to install and remove them. You place the pliers on one way and squeeze and tha clamp comes off. flip the pliers around and squeeze again, and it secures the clamp. super simple when you have the tool.

 

Chayse, do you happen to know what the name of this tool is or where they can be purchased?
PS
I modified a pair of cheap Chinese pliers to clamp them on but it would be nice to have a better tool that would take them off too.

 

After the Rally yesterday, I decided to try to reclamp the BMW hose clamp (BTW--I hate them!) that is on the black hose attached to the underside of the bypass valve. Of course, this meant that I had to disassemble all the parts again.

This time, I tried to attach a "regular" hose clamp. I didn't take off the SC "bull horn" but removed the airbox hoses and the throttle body. As fate would have it, I couldn't remove the BMW clamp! It must have caught on something. So I decided seperate the hose and remove the clamp by pressing down on the black plastic tube which is connected to the TB and the underside of the bypass valve. I was just about there when I heard a "crrrack"! Oh No!

The best I can guess (Bentley not handy) is that this tube connects somewhere to the SC air intake. I removed the apron on the underside of the car under the engine and a little semi-circular piece of black plastic about 3/8" in diameter(shaped like a "C") fell out. WHAT HAVE I DONE!

The car seems to drive ok but I did notice just a little hesitation when I initially increase the throttle angle. Unfortunately, because I have been driving with the new spring so little, I don't know if this is due to the "crrrack" I heard or the spring or V.39! I don't remember feeling this brief hesitation before. Still no yo-yo however!

What has that "crrrack" and the little "C" shaped piece of black plastic done to my car? Have I opened-up ducting that should be sealed/pressurized?

Help!

Theo

 

You probably opened up a leak between the throttle body and the supercharger inlet. This will confuse the ECU because the MAP will be higher than calcuated based on TPS. You'll obviously want to replace that inlet tube ASAP. Yikes, if that's what broke, it sucks to change out.

FYI - use very small channel-lock pliers to snap the BMW clamps together. They're quite easy with the right tool.

 

A little oil on the clamp will make it loads easier.

 

Hmmm...

What is involved in changing it out? Can I get to it from above/below the engine (I'm at work)? I hope I don't have to jack up the engine for this!!!

Just for more info, I can slide the plactic tube that goes to the throttle body out from its connection somewhere under the front of the engine if I pull it toward the driver's front wheel. Is this normal? I haven't removed it yet; just pulled it out a little bit then slid it back in.

What should I do to check/replace the connections?

Theo

 

Yes, exactly how DOES the TB manifold pipe attach to the SC? I never climbed in there to check but it felt very loose the last time I pulled the TB. It wouldn't pull out but would pull back about 1/2 inch.

 

Norm03S
I believe they are called Oetiker pliers. The clamps then being called Oetiker clamps. Once you use the tool, you'll wonder how you ever did it before, it is that easy. I can't find a suitable link right now. everything i'm finding is different than what I remember. I'll try to look some more.

 

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdsusp03.html

How about the bottom of this page, is this the right tool?

Also at Napa online so maybe they are available at a local auto parts store?
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/nc...6&prmenbr=5806

 

Theo - We're talking about the black plastic tube that goes from the throttle body exit to the supercharger inlet, right? If you indeed broke the supercharger inlet tube, you'll have to pull the front panel (including radiator) off the car to get to the fittings. The s/c inlet tube is held on by an o-ring and little plastic tabs, that's it. You can get away with only pulling the front panel away from the crush tubes, but it's a total PITA. Either way, you're in for a big job.

moral of the story - DON'T BREAK ANYTHING!

 

Koopah (Theo),

"The best I can guess (Bentley not handy) is that this tube connects somewhere to the SC air intake. I removed the apron on the underside of the car under the engine and a little semi-circular piece of black plastic about 3/8" in diameter(shaped like a "C") fell out. WHAT HAVE I DONE!"

I am 99.99% sure that I know what happened. Start breathing again, because this piece that broke alone is not necessarely a problem, but you will have to replace "the runner" that goes between the SC and TB eventually. You have to verify for me that this is the part that broke and then I can tell you what you will have to do to be sure that you have a working MINI until you are ready to change the runner. I am PMing you now with my cell phone so you can call me.

WORD OF CAUTION to all doing the installing the Ryephix #2: Do not push down with much force the black plastic piece below the TB and that also connects to the bypass valve hose. If you do, you will break a screw bracket that holds this big black plastic piece to the SC and will have to replace the entire plastic piece. Buying it will be the easy part. Physically replacing it will be a trial of patience, energy and will power. Trust me you want to be careful .... You could also develop a leak at the SC side by having a poor seal. Good news is that if you have to replace the big black plastic piece, it will give you a chance to make further improvements to the airpath going to the SC.

Bomboasy

 

Yup! That be the thing I broke!

Theo

 

Sorry this is a little OT but does pertain to those pesky clamps.
Chayse, does that look like the tool? If so, I'm glad it's a K&D they make some desent stuff and are sold in a lot of stores around here.