Will five bucks cover it? Where do I send it!

Cheers,

 

Actually I'm asking for $20 to cover my time and materials.

Alas, the 1st four are already spoken for [CoryB, Koopah, BlueMCS, and BrianGoldbloom]. I hope to have another batch in-the-works asap! I'll let you know when I do. :smile:

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Twenty bucks! No problem... I just have to be patient.


Cheers,

 

At the request of Ryephile, I am posting pictures of my bypass valve. This bypassvalve, that came stock with my car can NOT close completely. I am aware of the stop screw that is set improperly in most of our MINI S to not close completely. After the screw was moved back to allow for contact to the walls, to seal completely, I notice that light could still pass.
After careful examination, it is clear that the butterfly is not shaped properly and would had never closed properly in the first place. This is not good. I purchased from Ryephile a new bypass valve with his spring and this sample was perfect.
I am not sure what I will do with the faulty bypass valve. I assume that it is covered by the warranty, but maybe is worth my time to keep it to show them that the MINI is not perfect. This is not a part that can wear with use. My MINI is a Jan 2003 and has 12K miles.

If you descide to check for this imperfection in your MINI S, remove the Bypass valve and place it in front of a light. if you do not see any light, you are fine. Notice that the opening is small, but this is going to affect the benefit from the SC.

Thanks go to Ryan for his handy work building me a spring and providing me with a good bypass sample. Ryan and Randy (at WebbMotorsports) helped me by phone or email with the project that I just ended and included the bypass valve.

Bomboasy

 

Just needs a little port matching.

 

Blue MCS,

I completely agree with you, but that would work if you know that you need to fix it. The point is that unless you have looked yourself, you do not know if you are getting a good seal. All that money that I placed in my mods and only now I am getting the full bang for the buck. This is free HP/torque if you get a good bypass valve.

By the way, I see that you also got a Ryephix #2. What do you think of it. I love it.

Bomboasy

 

Haven't gotten it yet. However, have removed the valve and checked it for leakage, binding and throw last year sometime when I thought I was having a leakage problem. With some minor adjustment mine was fine. Did find that those BS BMW clamps were not securing the hose tightly. Replaced them.

 

All of the 1st batch were shipped off Monday (except for CoryB's, which was Friday), so you guys should be getting them throughout the week. Let me know if you have any install questions beyond the included How-To, and please post how you like the drivability improvement!

I still haven't picked up any more wire for making more springs, though so far I have 4 people waiting, so I have to get off my butt soon! If you're interested in either a Kit or a full replacement, let me know! :smile:

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Ryan,

What is the relationship between your four people waiting and the list at the top of the thread? Was I supposed to contact you directly?

ChiliBit

Vince

 

The list that Koopah created was an "interested" list. I've made a reserved list for people that have contacted me personally. If I end up making a heeeeuge pile of springs, I'll PM down Koopah's list and ask people if they're still interested, but the people on my reserved list obviously get 'em first!

So, summary: Contact me directly if you're commited and able to doing [or have done] this 'phix.

 

Ryan, maybe its time we tell them. Vinnie wants to know and I am becomming uncomfortable keeping this a secret much longer. You said just wait a little longer.

 

My package came today!

I'm off on Thursday (perk of being a gummint employee) so I plan to install the spring then.

Thanks again, Ryan.

 

Great to hear Cory!

--->BlueMCS: ssshhh! don't spill the beans just yet

 

So whats involved in changing the bypass valve if i buy the entire kit already done?
What does the M7 tube restrictor do compared with the spring mod kit?

 

Okay twenty bucks for the spring. I'll PM my info.

Has it been answered if the Exchange will include a properly calibrated and seated butterfly as well as the spring?

I'd hate to get in there and find a bad butterfly when if I get the exchange I could just drop it in and be done.

Would you release the kit with a deposit for the returned unit to be credited on receipt?

 

BlueMCS,

I should had changed the clamps, but did not. I did make sure that I placed the opening side reachable without having to put everything apart again. It will be done. The project that I did went a little farther than that. I removed the runner between the SC and the Modified TB that I have. K-Huevo has a tread on this at Webbmotorsports:

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/forum...opic.php?t=418

I do not want to change the focus of this tread, so let me just say that the seal at the hose is important, but you have to look at the seal of the runner on the SC side and change that green seal with a new one. I also cleaned up and modified the runner. I am new on this site, so I do not know your background, but you sound like someone who is not affraid to roll your sleeves and dig in the engine. I highly recommend this, if you have not done this already, but it is not for the timid. It is almost like changing the pulley the hard way. Fun.

Bomboasy

 

bgrpph: Read the 1st 6 pages of The Yo-Yo Chronicles. It is an intricate install, definitely not a simple swap like a CAI, but still very do-able if you have good mechanical skills.

MaxaMini: Yes I can do a complete reworked bypass valve if you're interested. I'll make sure it's in tip-top shape; adjusted and reworked properly. If you want to send me your good core, that's fine, we'll just adjust the price of the reworked valve accordingly. That works for me.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

I haven't had one of these in my hands, but "back in the good ole days" I rebuilt about a gazillion SU carbs that had butterflies that looked like this. Again, I don't know how this works in the MINI, but have you tried loosening the two screws that hold the plate to the shaft?

In the SU, there was a fair amount of play there. When reassembling the carb, you'd slip the plate into the shaft, start the screws, and then (here's the important part) turn the shaft to close the valve. Hold it up to the light, as our poster did, and make sure the plate was sealing all the way around the throat. Jiggle and fiddle until you got it right. Once you were sure the plate was seated properly, then you'd tighten the screws.

This was one of the "secrets" to getting a smooth idle and getting multiple SUs synchronized properly. And I saw a lot of SU butterfly plates that weren't seated any better than this bypass valve. Some were worse!

Could it be that the MINI bypass valve's butterfly works like this? Maybe it's just a matter of loosening the screws, wiggling things about a bit, and re-tightening them.

As my friend Dr. Bob used to say, "The British are a nation of tinkerers, and they make their cars to be tinkered with."

 

Now you did it Reworked bypass valve may be the hot ticket How much for a package price if you are sent the BP valve? and how much if core is returned later. Whats the turn around time? Can you say "Group Buy"

 

LombardStreet,
Good tip. The two screws hold the plate that is a single piece, so the variation was distributed in difference parts of the outer edge by changing the angle that is allowed by the play that the screw holes allow. I was not able to find a position where it was completely sealed all around. It did seems to improve some, but not to my satisfaction. This might be able to improve some of the faulty ones, but it is not a cure all. Be careful with the brass screws as they are very soft. I took nice pieces of brass with the screw driver when I unscrew them and also when I screw them in place.

bomboasy

 

Good point - I should have mentioned that!

 

SSSSHHHHHHH!! you're giving away all my secrets! No not really, I haven't had to adjust any bypass valve to date in the ole'-fashioned way. bomboasy's original might be the first I'm aware of that needed such adjustment.

Ok, I've had lots of request for pricing on the Complete Exchange. I'm thinking $50 re-work (retrofit the new spring, plus adjust the butterfly) on top of the core cost and shipping, is fair. If you want to send me yours, let me know. If you want to work out an exchanged Core system, I'll hound you like the dirty dog you are until you send me back your orignal! Otherwise if you want the Complete, I'll order a new bypass valve from Classic (they're close so shipping $ is minimal) and then rework it. Turnaround for the Complete should be about two days after I get it from Classic. The cost for the Complete should be about $110 out the door.

Errr, I still haven't had time to make up more Kits, and as of right now there are 8 plus 4 pending, woah!

Thanks for your continued support, and desire for better MINI drivability!
Cheers,
Ryan

 

I think your pricing is spot on. Present plan for me is to get v39 flashed then MTH. If that doesn't solve yoyo, I'll get you to bless my by-pass valve.:smile:

 

FWIW Apexer, the MTH helped a great deal with my yo-yo, but it's still there. Hence the reason I got the spring from Ryan. Hopefully I can get it installed tomorrow.

 

Ryephile, are you making these springs yourself as in winding them of tempered steel?
OT.
LombardStreet, from back in the day's of my involvement with British sports cars weekly tweeking, had the time then, Good memorys. It may be super charged, it may be fuel injected and ECU controlled but it's all relative if your a gear head you can always find something that can be improved. SU's and other carb's = no fear.