N14/N18 High Pressure Fuel Pump teardown and refresh
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 33
Likes: 5
Hi Myfast,
I too am skeptical when it comes to miracle cures in a can. However, I watched the video and a couple of things I noticed. First he did not say if both compression checks were done on a cold engine or hot engine. Maybe one was done cold and the last one was done hot. We just don't know but what we do know is that engine heat affects compression.
Having said that, I think Engine Restore probably did help the compression but my question is: For how long? I would like to see the test done again after he puts 100 hours on his tractor engine. However, given that our fuel pumps operate radically different than an internal combustion engine, you might find that the "fix" lasts much longer since the Mini pump is not exposed to the high temperatures of combustion. I am most interested in your long term results.
I too am skeptical when it comes to miracle cures in a can. However, I watched the video and a couple of things I noticed. First he did not say if both compression checks were done on a cold engine or hot engine. Maybe one was done cold and the last one was done hot. We just don't know but what we do know is that engine heat affects compression.
Having said that, I think Engine Restore probably did help the compression but my question is: For how long? I would like to see the test done again after he puts 100 hours on his tractor engine. However, given that our fuel pumps operate radically different than an internal combustion engine, you might find that the "fix" lasts much longer since the Mini pump is not exposed to the high temperatures of combustion. I am most interested in your long term results.
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Unfortunatelly, i was unable to repair it. Did everything to a T, watched mr2tempos videos, read this whole thread, gave it multiple tries. P0087 code just keeps returning no matter how many times i erase it. I just went to a official dealer, need to return monday i'll just order a new pump and let them install it, so i get warranty on a part and install. This was promising, but success with repairing this pump is just too low. Prices are ridicioulous tho.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 33
Likes: 5
Boris,
Sorry to hear it did not work. Have you checked the sources listed in this thread for OEM pumps with lifetime warranty for around $500?
Also did you take any measurements on your pump? That kind of data can help others.
Cheers,
Tom
Sorry to hear it did not work. Have you checked the sources listed in this thread for OEM pumps with lifetime warranty for around $500?
Also did you take any measurements on your pump? That kind of data can help others.
Cheers,
Tom
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I tried multiple times, with different amounts of oil. Think i was between 18-23. I'll look more into it when i get it out for a new one . Pump had between 700 to 1000 kpa and didnt go higher, car just wanted to stall when i tried to accelerate.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
Low -80 to 450 deg. "O"rings High temp silicone Red "O" Rings McMaster
New update. Good and bad news, but good information nevertheless.
I got the thicker fluorosilicone o-rings from McMaster-Carr. Bottom line: the wall diameter was too much. No dice. In order to work with a different wall diameter I'm going to have to find a product with a wall diameter between 0.070" and 0.103". McMaster-Carr does not have such a product listed on its website within its fluorosilicone o-ring lineup.
Detail: Because the inner diameter was the same as the original rings, getting them onto the solenoid was not an issue. However, the solenoid would not insert into the pump body. I put enough pressure on it to make it clear I would pretty much have to put my whole body weight into the thing to get it to insert -- which also meant it would probably never come out again (and that's aside from any damage/nonalignment from insertion itself).
Where this left me was "ok, I have this junker HPFP, I know how it behaves with the fluorosilicone o-rings that fit, but I do not know how it behaves with Viton rings, and that matters because each individual HPFP I've had has had unique behavioral characteristics even in failing/being weird."
If you've been following the thread, you'll recall that I tested Viton rings on the HPFP that came with the car used (the HPFP is a 2013 genuine replacement for the original-manufacture HPFP, swapped under warranty under the car's first owner). However, I had not tested Viton rings on my junker HPFP, because the Viton rings have a min operating temp of -15F -- unrealistic for many cold climates where Minis are running around all over the place.
Since the thicker fluorosilicone rings I got are a no-go and I do not have (at present) fluorosilicone rings thicker than the originals but thinner than the new ones, I said, "well, let me try the junker HPFP with new Viton rings of identical sizing, and I can do a materials-only apples-to-apples comparison on the same HPFP."
The results:
- Warmup issues are present regardless of the material, but the flurorsilicone warms up faster and more reliably.
- Failure behavior is still observed regardless of the material, specifically the half-engine light popping up after things have warmed up. However, this seems to be more common with Viton than with fluorosilicone.
- The Viton rings seem to lead to more consistent HPFP behavior, meaning that if it's flaky, it's flaky, rather than ebbing and flowing between flaky and hot-damn-this-is-great like the fluorosilicone rings. This makes a certain sense -- the Viton rings are harder, so they're going to stay in a tighter range of temperature-driven expand-contract, and to the extent that expand-contract is minimized, you get more consistent behavior good or bad.
- In terms of hardness, the gasoline-exposed fluorosilicone rings, including the original bottom O-ring, are palpably "squishy," even more so than the brand new fluorosilicone rings that have never been installed.
On balance, I like fluorosilicone more -- when it works, it works. However, both of these tests indicate that something is amiss besides the O-rings on the solenoid, because I wind up with half-engine lights and low fuel pressure warnings with both materials. The incidence, frequency, and nuances of the behaviors change, but there are always issues to contend with in some way.
My goals now are:
(1) find a better sizing of fluorosilicone o-rings from another manufacturer, since I see none on the McMaster-Carr website. Does anyone out there have any supplier suggestions where one can order online? The two ring sizes needed are:
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 5/16" ("top" or smaller ring)
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 3/8" ("middle" ring)
- Wall Diameter (wd) larger than 1/16" (0.070") but smaller than 3/32" (0.103")
Alternative materials option: Viton o-rings that have been tweaked by their manufacturer to have a lower minimum operating temp than -15F. I know this is possible, as McMaster-Carr has Viton rings with different min op temps, but I have not seen one of *theirs* with a lower min op temp than this. Since I have personally been in Chicago at -22F, it is sensible to require o-rings that will go well lower than that too. If someone has a different Viton option here I'm very interested in it.
(2) Figure out what to do about the "rest of the HPFP," that being cracking it open and ensuring that it has the right amount and kind of oil within.
I figure I can move to task 2 when I/we all figure out task 1. Input welcome, and hope all this information is helpful.
I got the thicker fluorosilicone o-rings from McMaster-Carr. Bottom line: the wall diameter was too much. No dice. In order to work with a different wall diameter I'm going to have to find a product with a wall diameter between 0.070" and 0.103". McMaster-Carr does not have such a product listed on its website within its fluorosilicone o-ring lineup.
Detail: Because the inner diameter was the same as the original rings, getting them onto the solenoid was not an issue. However, the solenoid would not insert into the pump body. I put enough pressure on it to make it clear I would pretty much have to put my whole body weight into the thing to get it to insert -- which also meant it would probably never come out again (and that's aside from any damage/nonalignment from insertion itself).
Where this left me was "ok, I have this junker HPFP, I know how it behaves with the fluorosilicone o-rings that fit, but I do not know how it behaves with Viton rings, and that matters because each individual HPFP I've had has had unique behavioral characteristics even in failing/being weird."
If you've been following the thread, you'll recall that I tested Viton rings on the HPFP that came with the car used (the HPFP is a 2013 genuine replacement for the original-manufacture HPFP, swapped under warranty under the car's first owner). However, I had not tested Viton rings on my junker HPFP, because the Viton rings have a min operating temp of -15F -- unrealistic for many cold climates where Minis are running around all over the place.
Since the thicker fluorosilicone rings I got are a no-go and I do not have (at present) fluorosilicone rings thicker than the originals but thinner than the new ones, I said, "well, let me try the junker HPFP with new Viton rings of identical sizing, and I can do a materials-only apples-to-apples comparison on the same HPFP."
The results:
- Warmup issues are present regardless of the material, but the flurorsilicone warms up faster and more reliably.
- Failure behavior is still observed regardless of the material, specifically the half-engine light popping up after things have warmed up. However, this seems to be more common with Viton than with fluorosilicone.
- The Viton rings seem to lead to more consistent HPFP behavior, meaning that if it's flaky, it's flaky, rather than ebbing and flowing between flaky and hot-damn-this-is-great like the fluorosilicone rings. This makes a certain sense -- the Viton rings are harder, so they're going to stay in a tighter range of temperature-driven expand-contract, and to the extent that expand-contract is minimized, you get more consistent behavior good or bad.
- In terms of hardness, the gasoline-exposed fluorosilicone rings, including the original bottom O-ring, are palpably "squishy," even more so than the brand new fluorosilicone rings that have never been installed.
On balance, I like fluorosilicone more -- when it works, it works. However, both of these tests indicate that something is amiss besides the O-rings on the solenoid, because I wind up with half-engine lights and low fuel pressure warnings with both materials. The incidence, frequency, and nuances of the behaviors change, but there are always issues to contend with in some way.
My goals now are:
(1) find a better sizing of fluorosilicone o-rings from another manufacturer, since I see none on the McMaster-Carr website. Does anyone out there have any supplier suggestions where one can order online? The two ring sizes needed are:
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 5/16" ("top" or smaller ring)
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 3/8" ("middle" ring)
- Wall Diameter (wd) larger than 1/16" (0.070") but smaller than 3/32" (0.103")
Alternative materials option: Viton o-rings that have been tweaked by their manufacturer to have a lower minimum operating temp than -15F. I know this is possible, as McMaster-Carr has Viton rings with different min op temps, but I have not seen one of *theirs* with a lower min op temp than this. Since I have personally been in Chicago at -22F, it is sensible to require o-rings that will go well lower than that too. If someone has a different Viton option here I'm very interested in it.
(2) Figure out what to do about the "rest of the HPFP," that being cracking it open and ensuring that it has the right amount and kind of oil within.
I figure I can move to task 2 when I/we all figure out task 1. Input welcome, and hope all this information is helpful.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
Low -80 to 450 deg. "O"rings High temp silicone Red "O" Rings McMaster
New update. Good and bad news, but good information nevertheless.
I got the thicker fluorosilicone o-rings from McMaster-Carr. Bottom line: the wall diameter was too much. No dice. In order to work with a different wall diameter I'm going to have to find a product with a wall diameter between 0.070" and 0.103". McMaster-Carr does not have such a product listed on its website within its fluorosilicone o-ring lineup.
Detail: Because the inner diameter was the same as the original rings, getting them onto the solenoid was not an issue. However, the solenoid would not insert into the pump body. I put enough pressure on it to make it clear I would pretty much have to put my whole body weight into the thing to get it to insert -- which also meant it would probably never come out again (and that's aside from any damage/nonalignment from insertion itself).
Where this left me was "ok, I have this junker HPFP, I know how it behaves with the fluorosilicone o-rings that fit, but I do not know how it behaves with Viton rings, and that matters because each individual HPFP I've had has had unique behavioral characteristics even in failing/being weird."
If you've been following the thread, you'll recall that I tested Viton rings on the HPFP that came with the car used (the HPFP is a 2013 genuine replacement for the original-manufacture HPFP, swapped under warranty under the car's first owner). However, I had not tested Viton rings on my junker HPFP, because the Viton rings have a min operating temp of -15F -- unrealistic for many cold climates where Minis are running around all over the place.
Since the thicker fluorosilicone rings I got are a no-go and I do not have (at present) fluorosilicone rings thicker than the originals but thinner than the new ones, I said, "well, let me try the junker HPFP with new Viton rings of identical sizing, and I can do a materials-only apples-to-apples comparison on the same HPFP."
The results:
- Warmup issues are present regardless of the material, but the flurorsilicone warms up faster and more reliably.
- Failure behavior is still observed regardless of the material, specifically the half-engine light popping up after things have warmed up. However, this seems to be more common with Viton than with fluorosilicone.
- The Viton rings seem to lead to more consistent HPFP behavior, meaning that if it's flaky, it's flaky, rather than ebbing and flowing between flaky and hot-damn-this-is-great like the fluorosilicone rings. This makes a certain sense -- the Viton rings are harder, so they're going to stay in a tighter range of temperature-driven expand-contract, and to the extent that expand-contract is minimized, you get more consistent behavior good or bad.
- In terms of hardness, the gasoline-exposed fluorosilicone rings, including the original bottom O-ring, are palpably "squishy," even more so than the brand new fluorosilicone rings that have never been installed.
On balance, I like fluorosilicone more -- when it works, it works. However, both of these tests indicate that something is amiss besides the O-rings on the solenoid, because I wind up with half-engine lights and low fuel pressure warnings with both materials. The incidence, frequency, and nuances of the behaviors change, but there are always issues to contend with in some way.
My goals now are:
(1) find a better sizing of fluorosilicone o-rings from another manufacturer, since I see none on the McMaster-Carr website. Does anyone out there have any supplier suggestions where one can order online? The two ring sizes needed are:
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 5/16" ("top" or smaller ring)
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 3/8" ("middle" ring)
- Wall Diameter (wd) larger than 1/16" (0.070") but smaller than 3/32" (0.103")
Alternative materials option: Viton o-rings that have been tweaked by their manufacturer to have a lower minimum operating temp than -15F. I know this is possible, as McMaster-Carr has Viton rings with different min op temps, but I have not seen one of *theirs* with a lower min op temp than this. Since I have personally been in Chicago at -22F, it is sensible to require o-rings that will go well lower than that too. If someone has a different Viton option here I'm very interested in it.
(2) Figure out what to do about the "rest of the HPFP," that being cracking it open and ensuring that it has the right amount and kind of oil within.
I figure I can move to task 2 when I/we all figure out task 1. Input welcome, and hope all this information is helpful.
I got the thicker fluorosilicone o-rings from McMaster-Carr. Bottom line: the wall diameter was too much. No dice. In order to work with a different wall diameter I'm going to have to find a product with a wall diameter between 0.070" and 0.103". McMaster-Carr does not have such a product listed on its website within its fluorosilicone o-ring lineup.
Detail: Because the inner diameter was the same as the original rings, getting them onto the solenoid was not an issue. However, the solenoid would not insert into the pump body. I put enough pressure on it to make it clear I would pretty much have to put my whole body weight into the thing to get it to insert -- which also meant it would probably never come out again (and that's aside from any damage/nonalignment from insertion itself).
Where this left me was "ok, I have this junker HPFP, I know how it behaves with the fluorosilicone o-rings that fit, but I do not know how it behaves with Viton rings, and that matters because each individual HPFP I've had has had unique behavioral characteristics even in failing/being weird."
If you've been following the thread, you'll recall that I tested Viton rings on the HPFP that came with the car used (the HPFP is a 2013 genuine replacement for the original-manufacture HPFP, swapped under warranty under the car's first owner). However, I had not tested Viton rings on my junker HPFP, because the Viton rings have a min operating temp of -15F -- unrealistic for many cold climates where Minis are running around all over the place.
Since the thicker fluorosilicone rings I got are a no-go and I do not have (at present) fluorosilicone rings thicker than the originals but thinner than the new ones, I said, "well, let me try the junker HPFP with new Viton rings of identical sizing, and I can do a materials-only apples-to-apples comparison on the same HPFP."
The results:
- Warmup issues are present regardless of the material, but the flurorsilicone warms up faster and more reliably.
- Failure behavior is still observed regardless of the material, specifically the half-engine light popping up after things have warmed up. However, this seems to be more common with Viton than with fluorosilicone.
- The Viton rings seem to lead to more consistent HPFP behavior, meaning that if it's flaky, it's flaky, rather than ebbing and flowing between flaky and hot-damn-this-is-great like the fluorosilicone rings. This makes a certain sense -- the Viton rings are harder, so they're going to stay in a tighter range of temperature-driven expand-contract, and to the extent that expand-contract is minimized, you get more consistent behavior good or bad.
- In terms of hardness, the gasoline-exposed fluorosilicone rings, including the original bottom O-ring, are palpably "squishy," even more so than the brand new fluorosilicone rings that have never been installed.
On balance, I like fluorosilicone more -- when it works, it works. However, both of these tests indicate that something is amiss besides the O-rings on the solenoid, because I wind up with half-engine lights and low fuel pressure warnings with both materials. The incidence, frequency, and nuances of the behaviors change, but there are always issues to contend with in some way.
My goals now are:
(1) find a better sizing of fluorosilicone o-rings from another manufacturer, since I see none on the McMaster-Carr website. Does anyone out there have any supplier suggestions where one can order online? The two ring sizes needed are:
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 5/16" ("top" or smaller ring)
- Inner Diameter (ID) of 3/8" ("middle" ring)
- Wall Diameter (wd) larger than 1/16" (0.070") but smaller than 3/32" (0.103")
Alternative materials option: Viton o-rings that have been tweaked by their manufacturer to have a lower minimum operating temp than -15F. I know this is possible, as McMaster-Carr has Viton rings with different min op temps, but I have not seen one of *theirs* with a lower min op temp than this. Since I have personally been in Chicago at -22F, it is sensible to require o-rings that will go well lower than that too. If someone has a different Viton option here I'm very interested in it.
(2) Figure out what to do about the "rest of the HPFP," that being cracking it open and ensuring that it has the right amount and kind of oil within.
I figure I can move to task 2 when I/we all figure out task 1. Input welcome, and hope all this information is helpful.
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I had to give in and ordered new pump with pipes included. With install included i just shelled out 780€. I had to drive car there for them to diagnose it, they wouldnt believe me it is the pump, they wanted to make sure .Everything else is fine .after that im getting carbon removed from my intake valves at tuning shop as official dealer doesnt do that . Cant wait to get my car back.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 33
Likes: 5
On the bright side, your Mini will run like new with new pump and clean intake valves. I could not believe how much better mine ran after those two items were fixed.
I think the conclusion we are reaching here, is that these pumps are difficult if not impossible to repair on a reliable basis. Boris, have you checked to see if there is any kind of extended warranty or class action lawsuit in your area which I presume is Europe? In the USA Mini first offered an extended warranty but when that ran out a class action lawsuit was initiated. A settlement was reached in the class action lawsuit and I think the result was each owner got up to $1,200 for each pump replacement (up to two pump replacements could be claimed).
In Canada where I live, there was no class action lawsuit, but Mini has some kind of secret extended warranty on a case by case basis based on your VIN but they will not release a list of affected VINs.
I think the conclusion we are reaching here, is that these pumps are difficult if not impossible to repair on a reliable basis. Boris, have you checked to see if there is any kind of extended warranty or class action lawsuit in your area which I presume is Europe? In the USA Mini first offered an extended warranty but when that ran out a class action lawsuit was initiated. A settlement was reached in the class action lawsuit and I think the result was each owner got up to $1,200 for each pump replacement (up to two pump replacements could be claimed).
In Canada where I live, there was no class action lawsuit, but Mini has some kind of secret extended warranty on a case by case basis based on your VIN but they will not release a list of affected VINs.
Neutral
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
On the bright side, your Mini will run like new with new pump and clean intake valves. I could not believe how much better mine ran after those two items were fixed.
I think the conclusion we are reaching here, is that these pumps are difficult if not impossible to repair on a reliable basis. Boris, have you checked to see if there is any kind of extended warranty or class action lawsuit in your area which I presume is Europe? In the USA Mini first offered an extended warranty but when that ran out a class action lawsuit was initiated. A settlement was reached in the class action lawsuit and I think the result was each owner got up to $1,200 for each pump replacement (up to two pump replacements could be claimed).
In Canada where I live, there was no class action lawsuit, but Mini has some kind of secret extended warranty on a case by case basis based on your VIN but they will not release a list of affected VINs.
I think the conclusion we are reaching here, is that these pumps are difficult if not impossible to repair on a reliable basis. Boris, have you checked to see if there is any kind of extended warranty or class action lawsuit in your area which I presume is Europe? In the USA Mini first offered an extended warranty but when that ran out a class action lawsuit was initiated. A settlement was reached in the class action lawsuit and I think the result was each owner got up to $1,200 for each pump replacement (up to two pump replacements could be claimed).
In Canada where I live, there was no class action lawsuit, but Mini has some kind of secret extended warranty on a case by case basis based on your VIN but they will not release a list of affected VINs.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 33
Likes: 5
Hi Boris,
I think a lot of people don't know that the Mini HPFP is actually manufactured for Mini by Peugeot. Buying a Peugeot pump is much cheaper than buying the Mini pump despite it being the exact same pump in the exact same box. Go figure.
Good luck on stage 2.
I think a lot of people don't know that the Mini HPFP is actually manufactured for Mini by Peugeot. Buying a Peugeot pump is much cheaper than buying the Mini pump despite it being the exact same pump in the exact same box. Go figure.
Good luck on stage 2.
We have it here for the, for the N14 engines our PSA pump is now the OES MINI pump. They just put the same pump in a regular box from the production plant. We ship to Canada and have them in stock. Check the production date on your MIN and follow our red notes on the product page.
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...el_Pump_22527/
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/MINI_...el_Pump_22527/
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Even on the OES MINI one? If you call and and ask for the MINI Forums or NAM discount my team should be able to help a little.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 33
Likes: 5
Make sure you are comparing apples with apples. If it does not say it is made by PSA (Peugeot) then it is likely a cheap, Chinese knock-off with useless warranty and very high failure rate. Also make sure it is new and not rebuilt. Hope this helps. I really feel that we Canadians should file a class action lawsuit like our American friends did. It worked for them, it should work for us.
+1^^ Yep, we dont carry any of those, all from MINI or the factory that makes them for MINI and Peugeot, Bosch, and Delphi. No Oasis branded stuff here 
See Oasis post # 91 for those issues. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4488763
See Oasis post # 91 for those issues. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4488763
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati OH
Torquehead/Boris, I’m on the home stretch of rebuilding my N14 and figured... since I’ve got the engine out of the car why not rebuild the HPFP....
There’s a guy on eBay selling all the needed seals for $25 so I figured what the hell. This car is like adult Legos after all. Man did I not know how big of a can of worms I was opening. I did all this prior to not reading through this entire thread and watching Portuguese videos.
Of course on disassembly I emptied out the black liquid thinking it was old motor oil. Boy was I wrong.
Ive been told that I can use something called AW32 hydraulic oil. I’m having trouble understanding how your measuring how much oil to use. I see that it’s 19 or 20mm but not sure how your getting that measurement.
Anyway to dumb it down for me or do you possibly have pictures of what your talking about?
Thanks
John
There’s a guy on eBay selling all the needed seals for $25 so I figured what the hell. This car is like adult Legos after all. Man did I not know how big of a can of worms I was opening. I did all this prior to not reading through this entire thread and watching Portuguese videos.
Of course on disassembly I emptied out the black liquid thinking it was old motor oil. Boy was I wrong.
Ive been told that I can use something called AW32 hydraulic oil. I’m having trouble understanding how your measuring how much oil to use. I see that it’s 19 or 20mm but not sure how your getting that measurement.
Anyway to dumb it down for me or do you possibly have pictures of what your talking about?
Thanks
John
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 29
Likes: 6
From: North Mexico
Torquehead/Boris, I’m on the home stretch of rebuilding my N14 and figured... since I’ve got the engine out of the car why not rebuild the HPFP....
There’s a guy on eBay selling all the needed seals for $25 so I figured what the hell. This car is like adult Legos after all. Man did I not know how big of a can of worms I was opening. I did all this prior to not reading through this entire thread and watching Portuguese videos.
Of course on disassembly I emptied out the black liquid thinking it was old motor oil. Boy was I wrong.
Ive been told that I can use something called AW32 hydraulic oil. I’m having trouble understanding how your measuring how much oil to use. I see that it’s 19 or 20mm but not sure how your getting that measurement.
Anyway to dumb it down for me or do you possibly have pictures of what your talking about?
Thanks
John
There’s a guy on eBay selling all the needed seals for $25 so I figured what the hell. This car is like adult Legos after all. Man did I not know how big of a can of worms I was opening. I did all this prior to not reading through this entire thread and watching Portuguese videos.
Of course on disassembly I emptied out the black liquid thinking it was old motor oil. Boy was I wrong.
Ive been told that I can use something called AW32 hydraulic oil. I’m having trouble understanding how your measuring how much oil to use. I see that it’s 19 or 20mm but not sure how your getting that measurement.
Anyway to dumb it down for me or do you possibly have pictures of what your talking about?
Thanks
John
Temp compensating valve on the right, you can measure the depth thru the opening.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati OH
Thanks Myfast! I think I’m getting it. When we’re talking the piston caps are we talking about the metal round disc looking things with the 4 holes in them or the caps that go on top of the springs.
it looks like you need a special unlock tool to get the 4 holed things out of there.....or maybe you don’t?
I stopped once I found out that liquid wasn’t oil. 😬
it looks like you need a special unlock tool to get the 4 holed things out of there.....or maybe you don’t?
I stopped once I found out that liquid wasn’t oil. 😬
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 29
Likes: 6
From: North Mexico
Thanks Myfast! I think I’m getting it. When we’re talking the piston caps are we talking about the metal round disc looking things with the 4 holes in them or the caps that go on top of the springs.
it looks like you need a special unlock tool to get the 4 holed things out of there.....or maybe you don’t?
I stopped once I found out that liquid wasn’t oil. 😬
it looks like you need a special unlock tool to get the 4 holed things out of there.....or maybe you don’t?
I stopped once I found out that liquid wasn’t oil. 😬
Piston cap in blue.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 29
Likes: 6
From: North Mexico
The problem with these pumps is piston/cylinder wear , thats why this additive may be key.
Look in Youtube testimonials of unbiased individuals, I was totally skeptical at the beginning.
https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php plays an important role here.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 17
Likes: 8
first , thank you for staring this thread, i'm not willing to pay 1k usd for a new pump at the dealer, when i can see repair kits for all other brands for $50.00 usd.
My pump does not leak oil, but still it is failing, so there could be many reasons for fail. If your pump is leaking oil through the diaphragm, that is not repairable, you will need to get a used pump to use the body. As you can see in the photos i uploaded, my pump is full with oil, black oil with a strong smell, doesn't look good, its really runny. The youtube guy, mr2tempos, recommends to use a mix of 30/70 atx oil mixed with w90 oil. There's someone on the video commenting that he succesfully used yamaha moto oil, but it makes sense to use thicker oil to compensate for the wear on the pistons. My car is a 2009 mcs with only 40k miles.
I followed all steps in the video, but used 5w30 oil, my bad, my pump didn't work, video clearly states that you may need to follow procedure a couple of times, not losing oil while re-closing is crucial. I will try again with the 30/70 mix and will post my results.
Here is a translation of the procedure: This is a translation from youtube instructions, follow at your own risk.
Step 1
remove the 3 screws which retain the cover
drain all oil, remove* pistons and springs and wash with gasoline. (*) they easily slide out.
Clean cylinders with a cloth, do not use gasoline here, as it will be very difficult to get it out.
Dry everything.
Step 2
fill the cylinders with sae w90 oil up to the top, slowly re-insert springs and pistons in its place, push pistons with your fingers several times, until you can feel some pressure has been built.
Repeat this step at least 4 times on each piston. (see video)
step 3 fill with oil the remaining of the pump cavity. (see video)
oil the pump cover with same oil until the internal bearing is lubricated.
Slowly place the pump cover back over the pistons, avoid abrupt movements. Place the 3 screws and tighten them uniformly and slowly to avoid excessive oil loss.
Finally clean pump and re-install in your car. (see video)
important there are no spare parts for this pump. If your components show too much wear, you should recover another pump. Even with some wear, w90 oil will compensate for it. Not all pumps will be ok with this procedure, nor you will succeed at the first try, you ll need to try again, step by step until you succeed.
My pump does not leak oil, but still it is failing, so there could be many reasons for fail. If your pump is leaking oil through the diaphragm, that is not repairable, you will need to get a used pump to use the body. As you can see in the photos i uploaded, my pump is full with oil, black oil with a strong smell, doesn't look good, its really runny. The youtube guy, mr2tempos, recommends to use a mix of 30/70 atx oil mixed with w90 oil. There's someone on the video commenting that he succesfully used yamaha moto oil, but it makes sense to use thicker oil to compensate for the wear on the pistons. My car is a 2009 mcs with only 40k miles.
I followed all steps in the video, but used 5w30 oil, my bad, my pump didn't work, video clearly states that you may need to follow procedure a couple of times, not losing oil while re-closing is crucial. I will try again with the 30/70 mix and will post my results.
Here is a translation of the procedure: This is a translation from youtube instructions, follow at your own risk.
Step 1
remove the 3 screws which retain the cover
drain all oil, remove* pistons and springs and wash with gasoline. (*) they easily slide out.
Clean cylinders with a cloth, do not use gasoline here, as it will be very difficult to get it out.
Dry everything.
Step 2
fill the cylinders with sae w90 oil up to the top, slowly re-insert springs and pistons in its place, push pistons with your fingers several times, until you can feel some pressure has been built.
Repeat this step at least 4 times on each piston. (see video)
step 3 fill with oil the remaining of the pump cavity. (see video)
oil the pump cover with same oil until the internal bearing is lubricated.
Slowly place the pump cover back over the pistons, avoid abrupt movements. Place the 3 screws and tighten them uniformly and slowly to avoid excessive oil loss.
Finally clean pump and re-install in your car. (see video)
important there are no spare parts for this pump. If your components show too much wear, you should recover another pump. Even with some wear, w90 oil will compensate for it. Not all pumps will be ok with this procedure, nor you will succeed at the first try, you ll need to try again, step by step until you succeed.
1st Gear
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 29
Likes: 6
From: North Mexico
Good luck, mine is still running, sometimes my car will start at first try sometimes at second, but the rest of the day it doesn't fail at all. I do not think this is a permanent fix but it will give you some months to save the 1K.