Ah, compare the solenoid pump values across pumps. Makes sense. Duh

2.8/9 ohms for 3 of the 4: 2013 HPFP (bad behavior), OSIAS HPFP (initial failure stages with oil leak, Sep 2016 "new"), spare HPFP that has never been installed but is "new."

All three of those are off-car. To test the other one I have to start removing things from the engine again (because of everything in the way of the solenoid contacts), and I unfortunately won't be able to do that until next week. So it's not an outlier, it just hasn't been measured yet.

But it looks like we've got a consistent reading across broken and hypothetically not-broken, with a pretty tight range of resistance values too.

 

Any updates from those working on this?

 

None yet. Waiting for arrival of a tool to better handle the quick disconnect on the low-pressure fuel supply line (which I am going to replace due to damage to the quick connect from, well, not having that tool).

I did receive the fuel rail with sensor a couple of weeks back but had to take a break due to traveling. Once I've got the quick disconnect tool, I'm going to be replacing that fuel line with one whose disconnect isn't damaged, replacing the fuel rail and sensor, putting the fluorosilicone rings back on the junker HPFP, and replacing the intake manifold gaskets (just because). I don't specifically expect major change of any kind, so the big question is whether I'll be surprised.

As I write this, I realize I totally spaced on submitting an oil sample to find out what is living inside the OSIAS HPFP that is leaking. One more thing to get back on deciphering.

 

you can use two philips screw drivers to push and release the hose

I also have a feeling you'll be surprised with the new fuel rail and pressure sensor

 

I am hoping I *will* be surprised!

I tried the two phillips screwdriver thing. That's how I got to where I am!!! Not an unsound approach. Just one I got sick of and I found the tool for about $30, wooooo

 

post a link for it... i think the ones i saw where south of $100

 

Here you go. Price is currently around $35 and there appear to be multiple sellers. It's a competing product, from CTA Tools, to the super-spendy one you can only find near the $100 price point:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTJN6TW/

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1137-MINI-C...4AAOSwP4FaK9Wl



thank you

 

You bet!

 

Thanks. Ordered on eBay. I hate that connector.
That or the previous owner messed it up long ago.

 

Glad to help. Hopefully some other folks find it helpful too!

 

anything new ?

 

So I had to do a shaman dance around the Mini to convince itself to reveal its secrets and not fight me getting the lower bolt on the intake manifold out.

Unfortunately, I forgot to ask the dance routine for some favors about getting the fuel rail off, so the Mini said "fine, you can have all 4 injectors out while you're removing that fuel rail, just think of it as one assembly because that's how you're a-gonna get 'em, as a bonus for me letting you have that intake manifold bolt!"

So now that the injectors are 100% out of the engine (but still in the old fuel rail) I'm going to have some questions for you as to their condition and proper replacement protocol. I'll take some pics and post up in about 7 hours (maybe less).

Love this car. It's like a Lego set! LOL.

 

Ok, so that took a bit more than 7 hours. But I'm back.

Pics attached. Questions I have are:

(1) What do you make of the condition of these? I have no experience with fuel injectors.

(2) I keep reading (Bentley manual, a couple of other places) that now that these are out I have to replace all the various sealing rings. Ok, fine, if I must, but I want opinions on that and...

(3) Should I get the Genuine Mini sealing parts/kit (P/N 13647600869) or the equivalent Bosch kit? The genuine kit runs about $80 (or higher); the Bosch kit runs $8. I would just go grab the Bosch based on price, but I really want to understand why the price variance is so high.

(4) If I *do* have to replace the sealing parts, that PTFE ring is, from what I gather, a project requiring a special (not cheap) tool. Thoughts?




Injector #1



Injector #2



Injector #3



Injector #4

 

Sooooooo we have mixed news.

(1) Decided to just put the damn thing back together. With the replacement fuel rail (and, more importantly, its sensor). Yay.

(2) The fuel line fitting on the replacement fuel rail is larger than the one on its predecessor. Meaning the nut on the fuel line is too small. Meaning I can't put the damn thing back together. Not Yay.

Ummmmm...

So. Suggestions? Maybe swap the new sensor onto the old rail? That seems to be the clearest path, so long as (1) the sensor is in fact same-spec and (2) I get it appropriately torqued, with no idea what "appropriate" means other than 'seems tight enough' (yeah, no...)

EDIT: Confirmed that the pressure sensor part number on both fuel rails is the same. The fuel rail proper is obviously not an interchangeable part, though. :/

 

That could've been from a later built. I know in ebay listing it was for 2011-2014 or something like that. apparently is wasnt. the good news is you have the sensor and that was the hole exercise. swap it and hand tighten it + a little more (maybe 45 degrees).

the injectors above done look tooo bad by the way.

 

Cool. Thanks for the feedback. FWIW I should have cross checked the eBay detail more closely - there’s a clear flag that the rail proper is interchangeable only with the exact same part number (and that part number is identified). What bit me is that I couldn’t ID the part number on the existing rail without disassembling everything first, and I hadn’t fully figured out from realoem.com that there were multiple part numbers in play on the MY2011 Cooper S. My vehicle is an early-production 2011 (Nov 2010).

I’ve run into that midyear/when-produced gotcha before, BTW — anyone with a 2011 Cooper S should take it seriously when the parts counter wants to cross check against their VIN, and definitely should check against realoem.com or minifans.info if they can.

I've got one additional feeler out on the torque spec for the pressure sensor -- will hopefully have an answer back fairly soon. Some cross-reference to BMW material for the same pressure sensor (same part number) on a different vehicle points at a spec of 30 newton meters minus 5, but I want to get a hard confirm as to whether that holds.

EDIT: Something I noticed. See pic below. If color is an indicator of material, the blue O-ring that seals the space between the injector and the fuel rail is... drumroll please... fluorosilicone. In photos I see of both the genuine Mini-branded and the Bosch-branded injector sealing kits, this O-ring is the same color and presumably the same material. Makes me wonder yet again about the choice of Viton rings on the solenoid in the stock Continental HPFP for this N18 -- that choice may indeed be a very real reason why part of HPFP failure is always a cold start/need-to-warm-it-up gotcha.



Close-up of removed injector showing rail-side sealing ring.

 

Hey MiniToBe --

(1) see post above, I added some pics and an observation that may be of interest.

(2) pic of the replacement fuel pressure sensor. Not sure what that ring is on the tip -- it could be some kind of sealing compound, but not sure. My original does not have this. What do you think?



Tip of replacement (used) fuel pressure sensor with some kind of compound on it -- any idea what it might be?

 

interesting indeed...when I did my countryman, the sensor was clean and didnt have that sealant on it. if you just clean it and install it, it should be fine. I never had a fuel leak with these things.

 

Cool. And an update: Mini is put back together. Started up clean -- obviously had to let it repressurize the fuel line after taking all that apart, but once that was done it did some minor stumbling and then just ran. Still up in the air on jackstands, I have to put the lower intake manifold bolt back in place and access is via the RF wheel well, but once that's done... test time, muhahahaha

So at this point, the replacement fuel rail pressure sensor is in, I'm using the junker HPFP, fluorosilicone o-rings on the HPFP's solenoid. I did let it idle for about 5 minutes, then shut it down, cleared codes, cranked it back up -- car went to limp mode rather than kicking the PSI to normal range. My immediate takeaway is that the oil question we were kicking around earlier is germane.

One note: I decided to probe both fuel rail pressure sensors before reassembly. Definite difference between old and new. In particular, pin 1-2 settled in at 10 ohms on the old, but about 11 ohms on the new.

More to come.

 

this is off to a good start...dont worry about that bolt in the back of the intake for now. never know if you have to get in there again.

swap out the pumps and notate any difference.

 

I seriously despise that bolt. But I got it back in place before you posted.

So I took it out for a spin. Pretty much same behaviorwise with this combination -- warms up well, but fuel pressure doesn't pick up to normal range until/unless you give it a shove, blah blah blah.

Unrelated to the HPFP: I would have to test some more to be sure, but I think the new pressure sensor is reading a smidge higher when in normal range. With the previous sensor I was seeing [abnormal] dips just below 600/620; now those dips are bottoming out in a higher spot.

Anyway, on to HPFP switches...

 

Cj..cj...cj...

 

Yeah yeah yeah I know. LOL.

 

It may interest people to know that several brand-new Genuine Mini Continental HPFPs, part 13517592429, are floating around eBay around the $500 price point. I've seen 2 from dealerships between $511 and $540, and some from a third outfit (one I'm not fond of, but they have the part) around $449.

Again, Genuine Mini part -- NOT the OSIAS, made in China, that I bought one of only to have it start leaking less than 3 months after purchase (with the manufacturer going dark on inquiry about its supposed 2-3 year warranty). I would recommend staying away from the OSIAS altogether.

If folks are interested in direct links I'll post them, just let me know.

In re my Mini -- I cashed in the Assurant warranty that I put on that bad OSIAS at purchase time, and put the funds towards one of those new Genuine Mini HPFPs yesterday. So now I'm going to have... 5 of them, which means we can smash one with a giant mallet like in the cartoons if we want.