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N14/N18 High Pressure Fuel Pump teardown and refresh
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
So far so good car starts right up idling about 4835 kpa- 5600 kpa on punch 9300-10,005+ kpa running great lets see how long we can run this pump. I did a little something different by using Lucas oil treatment with some 80-90 STP gear oil . I also filled the cap with Lucas up to and including the hollow drive shaft before installing. Since the Lucas treatment is thicker it stayed in place. After installation I have about 18 MM measurement from the outside of heat expansion valve to plate, should be plenty of heat expansion room. I remember someone saying a new pump was about 19 mm so should be good. Time will tell.
Hey guys, great job on this write up. I've been having similar issues with my R59 N14 JCW, I bought the phone app, to do proper readings, my fuel pressure is 700-800 psi at idle and 1500-1700 psi under WOT. I did have one fault after the drive, was 02 sensor heater, I have fitted a new sensor so not sure why I'm still getting that. My car hesitates during hard acceleration and pulls the power. I've changed the in tank fuel filter, plugs and done a decarbon, the car is also decatted. Any thoughts?
I tried the oil mixed with restore combo and it didn’t work for me.
I sent mine to a guy in Canada to get rebuilt for around $250 I believe and it works great!!
John
Still starts up on first crank with "no problems" as I write this update. Failed to mention that this is the original High pressure fuel pump on my 2008 Mini Cooper S turbo 116,000 miles. I had replaced this one with one of those from China which failed after about a year, which is pretty good considering. I have done the same thing to this one also, but haven't had a need to replace the old one . FYI
Still starts up on first crank with "no problems" as I write this update. Failed to mention that this is the original High pressure fuel pump on my 2008 Mini Cooper S turbo 116,000 miles. I had replaced this one with one of those from China which failed after about a year, which is pretty good considering. I have done the same thing to this one also, but haven't had a need to replace the old one . FYI
I would like to thank you for all the effort you’ve put into this. Please do keep us posted. My pump has 60k on it now. It is leaking a bit of oil. However, its still solid. It only has problems occasionally on a cold start if there is less than half a tank+ on 89 gas(very specific I know). Anyways, I digress.
Major respect to you
my HPFP failed, well still works once it warms up but can randomly go into limp mode. I'm starting to read this thread, currently on page 5. is there a guide in this thread or somewhere on how to rebuild and what parts are needed? N14 engine.
CONCLUSION - FINAL FEEDBACK after a couple of months with my multiple-times ¨sucesfully¨ repaired pump. The oil change fix is, based on my experience, a temporary fix. Depending on the wear of your pump it can last from 2 days to 1 month. I have done this repair in my own car enough times to be ready to buy the OEM pump, Im not risking any money on a chinese one.
CONCLUSION - FINAL FEEDBACK after a couple of months with my multiple-times ¨sucesfully¨ repaired pump. The oil change fix is, based on my experience, a temporary fix. Depending on the wear of your pump it can last from 2 days to 1 month. I have done this repair in my own car enough times to be ready to buy the OEM pump, Im not risking any money on a chinese one.
does anyone know if a pump that was used for 2k miles would have any damage to the internals from gas sitting inside? or its lifespan reduced?
Thanks to all for sharing your findings.
So, based on the gained experience, Is it worth to do a home rebuilt?, specially considering that this repair will no more than months, or Is there a more reliable way to repair it?
In your opinion, Which is the best way to move forward (brand new HPFP, professional repair, chinese one, or other)?
Thanks to all for sharing your findings.
So, based on the gained experience, Is it worth to do a home rebuilt?, specially considering that this repair will no more than months, or Is there a more reliable way to repair it?
In your opinion, Which is the best way to move forward (brand new HPFP, professional repair, chinese one, or other)?
So far so good car starts right up idling about 4835 kpa- 5600 kpa on punch 9300-10,005+ kpa running great lets see how long we can run this pump. I did a little something different by using Lucas oil treatment with some 80-90 STP gear oil . I also filled the cap with Lucas up to and including the hollow drive shaft before installing. Since the Lucas treatment is thicker it stayed in place. After installation I have about 18 MM measurement from the outside of heat expansion valve to plate, should be plenty of heat expansion room. I remember someone saying a new pump was about 19 mm so should be good. Time will tell.
Ok, another month has gone by and the High Pressure fuel pump has not given me any problems. Still starts up at first crank and maintaining fuel pressures. I hope this helps you guys as well as it has me. This is the original OEM fuel pump that was in the car by the way.
CONCLUSION - FINAL FEEDBACK after a couple of months with my multiple-times ¨sucesfully¨ repaired pump. The oil change fix is, based on my experience, a temporary fix. Depending on the wear of your pump it can last from 2 days to 1 month. I have done this repair in my own car enough times to be ready to buy the OEM pump, Im not risking any money on a chinese one.
Sorry to hear it did not work out Myfast. Did you by any chance measure the thermal compensator distance with each failure? If you did and if in each case, the distance increased, we can probably conclude that the oil is leaking internally.
After approx. 8 or 9 successfully but temporary repairs, I bought a new pump from Pelican Parts at $594 USD. I didn't want to risk my money with a Chinese pump or one of those from e-bay. Pelican offered a 2-year warranty, which is more than what MINI dealer offered. I just received the pump today, the machining finishes look top quality, it is made in the Czech Republic, which I guess is where the MINI brand pumps are made. I will install tomorrow and will keep you guys updated.
UPDATE 6/9/2020
I installed my new pump, it worked like a charm, the car went live at the first try, even though it had been sitting for more than 2 months, I was afraid of the battery being low, but not. So far, so good, happy man.
They are not at that warranty price anymore(pretty much cost to MINI from supplier at the time), that was our low price also a while back. These are the options now below.
Ok, another month has gone by and the High Pressure fuel pump has not given me any problems. Still starts up at first crank and maintaining fuel pressures. I hope this helps you guys as well as it has me. This is the original OEM fuel pump that was in the car by the way.
Hey I’m thinking about using this same combo but I am curious about your mixture percentage and if it’s still working well for you
This thread has a lot of info but is also very long and I'm sick right now so feel crap!
Can anyone do me the favour of a link to how I measure the HPFP oil level? I read something about the diaphragm of the thermal expansion chamber.
Also, anybody know the expected voltage to see on the control valve solenoid at startup or other conditions? I was seeing 0.285 Volts when cranking, but not getting more than tank pump pressure.
If it helps anyone, I've found the fuel rail pressure sensor is an 'absolute' pressure sensor so it displays 1 bar (about 17psi) at atmospheric pressure. My original sensor was over reading by about 30psi.
My tank pump provides about 90psi to the fuel rail.
So far so good car starts right up idling about 4835 kpa- 5600 kpa on punch 9300-10,005+ kpa running great lets see how long we can run this pump. I did a little something different by using Lucas oil treatment with some 80-90 STP gear oil . I also filled the cap with Lucas up to and including the hollow drive shaft before installing. Since the Lucas treatment is thicker it stayed in place. After installation I have about 18 MM measurement from the outside of heat expansion valve to plate, should be plenty of heat expansion room. I remember someone saying a new pump was about 19 mm so should be good. Time will tell.
