Swapped doors now the passenger door won't unlock
Swapped doors now the passenger door won't unlock
So, I found a couple of doors of the same Chili Red as my 2002 that were in better shape than mine.
I had the passenger door installed.
The new passenger door will lock with the remote but will not unlock.
Looking at videos on Youtube, it doesn't appear that anything in the door is responsible for unlocking electronically.
Is it a programming issue?
(I retained my old doors so if I need to swap any parts from the old, I can.)
Inquiring minds want to know.
I had the passenger door installed.
The new passenger door will lock with the remote but will not unlock.
Looking at videos on Youtube, it doesn't appear that anything in the door is responsible for unlocking electronically.
Is it a programming issue?
(I retained my old doors so if I need to swap any parts from the old, I can.)
Inquiring minds want to know.
Something does not make sense, as I expect the result to be the same. This leads me to think it is more likely a mechanical problem that has to do with the single/double pull to open. Like you think, there is no smarts in the door, especially the passenger side. Just electromechanical, powered by the BCM.
Are you sure the door lock actuator in the donor door was good before the swap? I would try installing your original actuator in the door to see if the problem still exists.
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I have no idea if the door actuator worked properly in the donor car. It was from a 2003. The window is smoother than mine, though.
Guess I'll have to connect it to the car to get the window rolled up so I can attempt to get the actuator out myself. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Thanks.
Guess I'll have to connect it to the car to get the window rolled up so I can attempt to get the actuator out myself. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Thanks.
I have no idea if the door actuator worked properly in the donor car. It was from a 2003. The window is smoother than mine, though.
Guess I'll have to connect it to the car to get the window rolled up so I can attempt to get the actuator out myself. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Thanks.
Guess I'll have to connect it to the car to get the window rolled up so I can attempt to get the actuator out myself. Doesn't sound like a fun job. Thanks.
Does the rear hatch open OK?
You may have enabled the security lock that prevents the doors being opened from the inside.
To OP. I wonder if the lock actuator with the door you swapped in simply getting lazy sitting around with idle hands.
It is a motor and gear actuator so lock and unlock is the same motor with power polarity swapped. I don't know if it has microswitches to detect if the lock and unlock positions indeed reached, or just sensing load current. All that is done by the BCM.
You can try listening closely when unlocking with the key fob. There should still be faint sound if it indeed gotten lazy.

It is a motor and gear actuator so lock and unlock is the same motor with power polarity swapped. I don't know if it has microswitches to detect if the lock and unlock positions indeed reached, or just sensing load current. All that is done by the BCM.
You can try listening closely when unlocking with the key fob. There should still be faint sound if it indeed gotten lazy.
Fully lock the door with the key fob in the door key slot then unlock. They might just be out of sync. I had mine do this a couple times when the doors were undone.
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If I do as you suggested, use the key in the door lock, it will not unlock and the hatch operates properly.
So its locks, but will not unlock both doors?
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There are two (micro) switches in the passenger side lock per schematic. However, one shows it is doing nothing electrically. The schematic is for 06 cars so other year range may be different.
With only one switch that is wired to the BCM, I infer it is how the BCM verify if the door is locked. It has to interpret the unlock state by mean of the switch in the other position. Obviously they did this to save the cost of one wire. I would recommend you just swap out the lock assembly with one from your old door. Enough guessing and beating the dead horse already.
With only one switch that is wired to the BCM, I infer it is how the BCM verify if the door is locked. It has to interpret the unlock state by mean of the switch in the other position. Obviously they did this to save the cost of one wire. I would recommend you just swap out the lock assembly with one from your old door. Enough guessing and beating the dead horse already.






