On my moms R57 S with the auto, she parked the car, went to dinner and came back and the car would 't start and alerted of a trans fault. Hooked it up to my foxwell scanner and it said Solenoid S1 with fault code 4e84.

The car would not turn over or click or anything, obviously the ECU not allowing for a start with the trans fault.

Given that the solenoids are in the valve body, went through all the effort of changing out the valve body with a reconditioned unit only to be getting the exact same error code.

Cleared the code and it pops back up immediately. The two connectors on the transmission seem fine and I cleaned them just to make sure.

Could it be the transmission controle module? Anyone else have this issue?

It's down to being an electrical issue since the mechanical piece has been replaced.

 

most of the time, the car wont start if it were in gear. Just make sure that you push the shifter to P. if that doesnt do it, try moving it to N. if that doesnt work, disconnect the shifter cable and manually push the selector to P (move shifter towards the fire wall).

keep us posted.

 

Nope it's definitely in P and computer knows it is too. If it's not you get the symbol with P and N or something of the sort on the instrument cluster. I also tried N just to be safe.

It's got the yellow gear with the exlamation point.

My next bet is the EGM module for the transmission as it still feels like there is a mechanical fault, even though that's not possible, so it might be the brain of the system malfunctioning.

That would also explain the sudden failure after the car was running perfectly fine. Then refused to start the next time.

Any thoughts other than the EGM??

 

i would say let's start one step at a time:

confirm you have enough juice in the battery?
confirm you can rotate the engine by hand 18mm socket CLOCKWISE CLOCK WISE

disconnect the EGM and try starting the car...IF it starts, do NOT put it in gear. now you know you need an EGM.

where are you located btw

 

In Pittsburgh PA.

Okay awesome I will check and see if the car starts without the EGM connected. Is it under the steering column?

Engine definitely turns by hand. Battery has been on a trickle charger so juice is good.

Great idea about disconnecting the EGM.

 

you're 5hrs away from me lol

it is against the fire wall on top of the brake paddle.

yeah, let me know if it works or not.

 

I'll be interested to see what you find. The EXACT same thing happened with my wife's Mini Clubman. Hers suddenly wouldn't start either. It made some relay clicking noises when a start was attempted, but wouldn't crank over. I found a loose ground strap that runs from the passenger side motor mount on the engine to the body. That solved the starting problem. However now I suddenly have a P0974 shift solenoid A high code. My BMW scan tool shows 4e84 also. Clear the code and it immediately comes right back. Trans is locked in limp mode. My scan too shows shift solenoid A continuously ON. That's obviously not what it should do. I've tried fluid flushes, dropping the trans pan, removing, checking resistance, operationally checking the solenoid, and trying a spare EGM computer. No luck. I haven't done the valve body since the trans was working PERFECTLY before the start problem. As much as I hate it, this car might be headed to the shop.

 

Alright guys, give me about 2 hours. Ifinally have a chance to swap out the EGM with the one that just showed up.

I will post about my findings...

I am most surprised about the no start thing in conjunction with the trans fault code... My thinking is that the EGM failed, keeps throwing the code and causing the no start situation...

Knowing that the valve body is not actually the issue, it's clearly electrical.

I also checked the two plugs that connect to the trans from the front, they were clean and fine.

So with fresh fluid, clean plugs and new valve body, in goes another EGM.

Give me a bit and I will let you know what I find!

Sorry yours is being such a bugger... I hate taking a car to a shop haha!

 

Okay so the EGM did not do it.

There is still no attemp to start, no clicking or anything. It just cycles through the power accessory modes (turning nav on and whatnot) then just turning itself back off again.

So, what else could be causing the no start? Drove fine with no trans code. Parked, then wouldn't start again. Pretty sure it's not really even transmission related.


EDIT: Should have read all the codes on my reader because I have a starter motor operation fault... So that's definitely something. Going to check the starter connections and clean them up. Check for loose ground and anything else...

 

It seems that my R56 turbo has developed a similar problem after timing chain job and oil change. I'm getting P0073, P110F and P0974 codes.

I had a minor oil spill from the filter housing; could that spill be the culprit of my starting issues? It's weird since the car started twice without any problems right after I put the engine back together.

 

So those first two codes are ambient air temp sensor codes. So check that connection in the front bumper on the passenger side.

The third code is a shift solenoid code, not sure how that would effect your issue there.

I doubt the filter housing leak would be the issue, but let me check my starter first to see the connections and see if oil made its way back there.

 

did you check fuses, ground strap to engine, and finally the fuse box behind the kick panel of the passenger side. check it for any water intrusion.

 

any good news?

 

Yes and no and more no...

So don’t laugh and my incompetance but the car didn’t start due to a loose engine ground strap on the passenger side engine mount. I had checked it but the shop said it was tight, just not tight enough... So that would have saved me 20 hours in doing a valve body replacement for the trans fault... Ouch.

I had no way of knowing since I just plugged in my computer and read off the codes. I learned my lesson to say the least. Start with the easy stuff...

So it got new fluid and a new valve body, but once the car started, the torque converter wouldn’t lock up.

I know that is directly related to something with the new valve body I had installed. So, it’s been in the shop since this Monday again as I just had them look into the torque converter lockup clutch issue...

So, we will see what they say. So learn from my mistake here ladies and gentlemen, and start with the simple solutions first before diving into anything more expensive and time consuming!!!

 

that is good to know that the car at least starts.

How do you know the clutch isnt locking up? could it be a bad solenoid? what is you put back the original one, what happens?

 

Yeah at least it starts and drives...

I know its not locking because of 1. how it drives and 2. CEL with lockup solenoid code.

It can rev up and down without making much of an impact on speed like an old old car would with an automatic transmission.

I already sent back the old valve body to get my core charge refund. Plus, swapping the valve body isn’t something I want to do often unless I knew for sure it was the problem. So I will see what the shop says!

 

I hear you brother...when mine was doing that, i bought another transmission. cheaper than VB. I tore down the original trans and found nothing suspicious. I cleaned everything up though to be sure. I will install it once im done with my two other projects and report back.

 

Dang that’s the real deal... I was able to get a VB from Revmax for less than 1k and a $350 core charge. Hopefully that’s not the problem and I missed a connector or something...

Good luck on your projects!!

 

Any one got any updates on this code. Is it electrical or mechanical related. Put in a new valve body but still getting Solenoid S1 with fault code 4e84 any thoughts. Looked into the transmission gears no metal no sign of failure either Thanks

 

In my case, I did not install the tranny I rebuilt. Instead bought two more pre 2011 and failed. I bought a 2013 tranny and was fine after that.

if you take the VB out, check the clutch packs, there should be some play. also the torque converter can be faulty.

 

So its a 6 speed also not a cvt. The only fix is a 2013 or newer tranny? I put in a new valve body that should have fixed all the splinoid packs with The s1 solinoid code 4e84 faulty. Unless i got a bad one again. Any ideas.

 

Post 2011 would've been fine. If the VB didn't fix it, consider checking the clutch pack. They could be binded or something. If you cam return the VB amd just source a tranny, it might be better. Check car-part.com for inventory.

 

Checked the clutch pack looks good and the pan was clean as well no metal debree or anything. I would source a tranny from carparts but even that can be tricky since the salvage parts are known to be faulty dirty fluids neglect etc. Its a gamble with labor if thats the next move. Not ready for a swap im thinking a sensor wiring or something real simple should fix problem. Any ideas.
​​​​

 

I wonder if it can be electrical or harness etc related. The tranny is clean and no metal and the valve body is reman but still getting wierd shifting and codes.

 

Thank you for this thread! A friend of mine was stuck in this position just now. I read through your trials and tribulations, and we got him back on the road without a tow! He "wiggled" the already tight ground strap, and viola!, the car started up like usual. Thank you!!