When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Ok, so I bought a 2002 Mini Cooper for my Daughter, the check engine light is on. I bought a Creator C 310+ scanner to use for the car. The people we bought it from had their mechanic change the # 2 oxygen sensor (after the cat) and said that the code had to be cleared by the Mini Dealer. I've tried clearing the code with this scanner but it keeps coming right back. So after looking at the definition for the code, I decided to replace the #1 oxygen sensor (used a boshe). Now it still throws the same code and sometimes one for the #1 sensor as well. The scanner allows me to monitor the oxygen sensors in real time so I did that. The #1 shows active/nonactive back and fourth. You guys got any ideas for me? I have attached picture of the scanner readouts.
There are several threads on oxygen sensors. Most of what I've seen is recommendations for NGK over the Bosch sensors. I know that's not a lot of help...I just bought one and was not able to get my old sensor and the check engine light was staying on. Don't remember
which sensor was causing the problem but I ran the ECU reset after running a few canisters of fuel injector cleaner at fill up...have not had any problems since...Oh...I always run premium since I bought it with 26K...I've now got over 144K.
Yeah, I've read several of the Oxygen sensor threads. I saw the bit about the NGK. I figured the Bosch would be right since it was German! Oh well live and learn I guess. I think I will try the ECU reset and running the fuel injector cleaner through the car. From what I have read also I may have to make the switch to premium fuel as well. This car definitely has a learning curve with it.
I just sorted a downstream o2 sensor issue. The heat shield cut through a wire running to the sensor. I was getting a p0036 code though. Do a search here - highly unlikely your problem is unique to you. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
From what I have read also I may have to make the switch to premium fuel as well. This car definitely has a learning curve with it.
I bought my Mini back when gas was hitting close to $4 a gallon here in Central Louisiana...I was so tempted to run regular gas...but had a good friend who explained why premium is so important in an engine where it's recommended...I also have a Harley Davidson V-Rod and it also runs on premium...anyway...I recently bought my second 2006 Mini (R53) and the dealer was kind enough to fill it up before we got there...it was running on regular and each time I took off I could hear the engine knock/ping...as soon as I ran the regular down and filled up with premium the knock/ping went away...fortunately this Mini only had 18130K on it when I drove it off the lot.
Anyway...good luck with getting the code cleared...permanently.
Yes, this is what you want is dirrect fit, not the universals. Also, check the connections on the wire plugs at the front near the firewall so they are not damaged, I had something come up from the road and hit mine and damaged the cable also.
When these go bad its either one of or the other and a great way to tell is if the milage drops like crazy and all other things on your MINI are fine. Mine did that.
My scan tool allows me to "clear adaptive values". Is this the same as the ECU reset that I've seen mentioned using the mileage reset button? I'm using a Creator C310+ scanner.
If this code is like P2096 it is a hard code. you can't clear it. The dealer can. maybe some shops can that have $700 scanners. I'm working on P2096 now. I replaced the same O2 sensor. My old mini had this code at one time too. it took 3 weeks of driving for it to clear after replacing both sensors and the header. I loose sleep with these codes. Some are so ambiguous. Could be a bad sensor, or an airleak in the exhaust or intake side.
Well I've ordered the NTK sensor. We will try that and see what happens. I have been able to clear the code but once I restart it comes back. My scanner still flashes active/non active in real time. Hope this new sensor will do the trick.
I put the new sensor in and have been running the car for about a week. Car runs fine but the sensor still isn't working right. The active/non active keeps flashing for the sensor ahead of the cat. The sensor after the cat is showing about .10 V over what the one before shows at it's highest level but it is all over the place on average. I've been trying to trace the wires from the sensor but once it goes into the harness by the cylinder head I lose it. I'm trying to see if there is any damage to the wire down the line some where. Anyone have any ideas?
