Hey all. I've recently purchased an 2005 Mini Cooper S (R53 not a JWC) automatic that has several issues, but I'm working them out one at a time. I have relocated to Hawaii and the cost of non-DIY repairs is just stupid. I'm a quick learner and have just successfully completed rebuilding a VW Passat engine that cranked the first time. (Even though it took me several months to complete). So, I've bean doing a lot of research online and this forum is one of the most informative I've found for MCS's. Much Mahalo.

Getting down to it: The car sat for about a year and would not even run when turned over, so I completely removed the front end, including the radiator fan mount, to give me enough room to do all this work:

• Drained oil
• Drained coolant
• Drained the fuel tank (Nasty Business That Was)
• Replaced fuel filter & gasket
• Cleared fuel line
• Removed and cleaned fuel rail, injectors, pressure regulator
• New NGK plugs
• Replaced serpentine belt
• New oil & filter
• Removed valve cover, cleaned and inspected for oil leaks (all good)
• Inspected timing chain tensioner boot (looks great, no grooves)
• Replaced oil in supercharger (both ends, and meticulously measured new oil)
• Removed and cleaned MAP sensor
• Removed and cleaned intake manifold
• Cleaned throttle body
• Cleaned BPV
• Replaced the o-rings on the water pump intake boot
• Cleaned everything else I could get a rag on
• Enjoyed many adult beverages along the way

The good news is that it will now crank up and run. The bad news is:

• When cranking, it jumps to 1100-1200 rpm, then drops below 900 and "Yo-Yo's" very roughly during idle - (Noticed that the RPM is around 700-800).
• Eventually (after some peddle tapping and coxing) the idle will smooth out around 900 RPM, and the car purrs.
• Once the idle smooths out, I tap the accelerator, the engine hesitates, nearly stalls, then revs. If I slowly press the accelerator, it revs just fine.

I am receiving NO codes. after a bunch of reading, I'm suspecting the BPV or the high pressure fuel pump to be the culprit. If it where the high pressure fuel pump, would I get some sort of "Fuel Pressure" code?


I did a smoke test using an incense stick and didn't notice any vacuum leaks sucking the smoke in.


I am planning on changing out the plug wires as a matter of course, but don't count on that resolving anything because I'm not getting any codes.


I could replace the coil pack, injectors, and fuel pressure regulator, but the fact that there no codes indicating those to be the sources, I hate to just through money at it.


During my researching I came across several YouTube posts. Although a different models, my MCS is doing the exact same thing. this is one of the posts. Notice that it will eventually smooth itself out if I wait for it, just like the end of this video.



Any input in appreciated and welcome. Thanks for reading.

 

Not sure this has one..... but on another car I have with similar symptoms it was the IAC valve and/ or ECU needs to be reset.

Mini calls it " readapting"

 

Vac

 

Leak

 

As a matter of course, I just reset the ECU. As expected, it did not fix anything.

So 808R53, I suspected vac leak, but have not bean able to locate one. I'll keep looking. BTW, are you in Hawaii, Oahu? (808 zip)

Some new info: I just tried to start it and it was very difficult to get going. Once I got it to start and level out, after a few small revs of about 1500, it stayed stable during idle. The acceleration was still sluggish as a slug, but when I pressed and held the accelerator, it would bog down, nearly stall, then rev.

 

Had the same thing happen to my R53 when I first did the intercooler boots, it's very easy to have one crimp or distort when putting them on and the intercooler back into place.Usually it's underneath on the drivers side boot.

Also, they can be cracked from age and you won't see anything, but you will lose power and have rough idle.The climate in the Islands is very tough on cars...especially cars that have been idle for a while, been there, kids live there now.It just eats cars.

Good luck, I will be visiting in May or June, maybe we can meet up and talk Mini.

 

96822

 

As a general diagnostic, I would guess idle control valve because they have moving parts and get sticky if they've sat for a while. My mini never had this problem though so I'm not much help with that.

 

One thing you might consider: These cars use fly by wire technology. The electronic gas peddle is a electrical pot type system. Sometimes the peddle control under the peddle will go wrong and cause these kinds of faults (especially if salt water have infiltrated the electronics).
I hope you get it running smoothly soon!

 

Just got back from O'Riely's with a "borrowed" Fuel pressure testing kit, and a compression tester. Planning on performing those tests this weekend. I'll report my findings.

I found a couple a posts that say the normal fuel pressure should be 50+. Does anyone know for sure what that number should be?

Also I've read the compression should be 131-153lbs. Again can anyone confirm these numbers?

I did find a post that mentioned a split line between the fuel pump and the fuel filter. So I'll be checking that out as well.

 

So I tested the fuel pressure and it came out to 20lbs. Guessing that's too low for anything to function correctly.

All 4 cyliners compression results are 110lbs.

I fould that when I had changed the fuel filter, I had left the holding ring off, yea pretty fricken stupid, so I unhooked the fuel line to the filter and put the ring on, tapped it into place with a giant screw driver and rubber mallot (watched a YouTube for that one), reconnected the fuel line an tried to start it.

Now I'm getting absolutly no fuel to the fuel rale. Pressure = ZERO! So I'm now wondering if the fuel pump just finally died. Funny thing is, I can hear the pump come on when you turn the key, but there is nothing coming through.

I suppose I could recheck the fuel filter to make sure I didn't screw anything up, but I'm leaning towards the pump. I would like to test the voltage to the pump. Does anyone know what pins to put the meeter on and what voltage to check for?

 

Does anyone know if there is a way to test the coil pack to see if there is spark happening?

 

I was wondering if you work for a dealer or have your own shop? I may need some help on this one. you can shoot me an email banochris at yahoo.

 

To do a quick check, unplug from spark plugs and turn it over stick a screwdriver in the plug end and with the screw driver close to a ground, if they spark, the coil is good enough to start the car, but if the crank position sensor is out, it may not start at all, if it does, it will usually run like S___t.

 

The coil packs don't go bad frequently on these cars. More often than not, the terminals just get rusty. New wires+clean the terminals carefully with a wire brush+new plugs is probably the cheapest/easiest first step.

As for alternate source of vacuum leaks, I'd look for the little 90 degree elbows on the vacuum hoses to the fuel pressure regulator (underneath the intake manifold). Those crack pretty often.

Also, if you look in that "Resetting ECU...Viagra" thread, you'll see a list of everything you can set the computer to display. [19>LI-OFF>7] is actual coolant temperature. It should read 88-92 degrees (C) when warmed up. If it doesn't reach that within 10-15 minutes, it could be an early sign of a faulty thermostat--maybe it's running too cool?

I don't know much about the fuel pump thing though. Maybe check the fuses?

 

ItMeWayne - Thanks I'll try that.

sarom58 - Thanks, Good point, which sparks a few questions: If the crank position sensor was bad wouldn't it run rough at any RPM, not just at idle? If the crank Position sensor is bad, would that prevent the fuel pump from pumping fuel to the rail? If the crank position sensor goes bad, is there a code generated when trying to start?

So I bit the bullet and ordered a new VDO 16146765121 fuel pump from FCP Euro. $204 shipped.

Does anyone know what pins to check voltage on for the fuel pump?

Is there anything on the fuel filter housing that could cause zero fuel pressure at the rail?

 

This thread could've helped me out, my R53's acting wonky like this... Hmm. I hate unresolved threads.

Just saying.

 

Indeed! always good to finish a thread.

 

OP joined in February of this year made some postings and then stopped visiting on or about 3/21/17.

 

bummer...

I always try to close out my "issues" thread, in case someone comes along via a search for a similar issue.

oh well. thanks coop...

 

For what it's worth, and since this thread was left for dead, I'll post my $0.02.

The OP stated he inspected the timing chain, but didn't specify whether he replaced the tensioner. Had I known the R53's had a serious timing chain tensioner problem as well as the R56's I probably wouldn't have driven the car at all (But, this thread died, it includes most of my symptoms). Im hijacking it until I see the need to start a new and very similar thread.

Needless, to say I've driven my car for around 2,000 miles with this noise. Sometimes hitting higher RPMs. I would like some input from you guys as to if there could be further damage done by my driving the car? I changed my tensioner and noticed a much smoother idle and better driving... But that noise is still there.🤔

Any input super appreciated!

Thanks 👍