Car wouldn't start after car wash
#1
Car wouldn't start after car wash
I went to give the car a rinse this morning and ran it through the touchless car wash. This is the first time I've tried to wash it in the 3 weeks I've had it.
Drove it home and came back out and hour later and the car wouldn't start. No engine turn over noises, just all the electronics flickering on/off and the window trying to roll itself down inch by inch.
Immediately went to check the battery and there was about an inch of water in there. The terminals were a little damp, but not soaked. Carpet and trunk area was dry so I'm not sure where it leaked in from. Drained the battery well, wiped off the terminals and car started back up.
I'm guessing the car doesn't like pressure washes. Funny since last week the car survived a 2 days of heavy rain. Anyone else have this happen before? Since I've owned the car I've always noticed the battery area being damp, but no water accumulation until today.
Should I coat the terminals with anything as a preventative? One of my friends recommended dielectric grease.
Drove it home and came back out and hour later and the car wouldn't start. No engine turn over noises, just all the electronics flickering on/off and the window trying to roll itself down inch by inch.
Immediately went to check the battery and there was about an inch of water in there. The terminals were a little damp, but not soaked. Carpet and trunk area was dry so I'm not sure where it leaked in from. Drained the battery well, wiped off the terminals and car started back up.
I'm guessing the car doesn't like pressure washes. Funny since last week the car survived a 2 days of heavy rain. Anyone else have this happen before? Since I've owned the car I've always noticed the battery area being damp, but no water accumulation until today.
Should I coat the terminals with anything as a preventative? One of my friends recommended dielectric grease.
#2
Is it an S or base model?
Did you spray off the engine? ( I know you said a touchless wash, but not sure if you took it further)
We need to know more to help you out.
If it is an S, it maight be the battery box filled up with water from a leaky hatch gasket, or clogged sunroof drains.
if you did not get it running yet, did you try grabbing the codes off of the OB2 scanner?
You may try just disconnecting the batter for a few minutes and then try starting it again.
Did you spray off the engine? ( I know you said a touchless wash, but not sure if you took it further)
We need to know more to help you out.
If it is an S, it maight be the battery box filled up with water from a leaky hatch gasket, or clogged sunroof drains.
if you did not get it running yet, did you try grabbing the codes off of the OB2 scanner?
You may try just disconnecting the batter for a few minutes and then try starting it again.
#3
It's an S model. I didn't clean the motor. Just ran it through a quickie touchless car wash.
I got it to start back up after draining the battery compartment in the hatch (had about an inch of water at the bottom). I also wiped off the terminals but they were not really wet at all. Maybe some condensation.
Trunk carpet was dry. Hatch area dry. Just had 1" of water in the bottom of the battery compartment.
Just want to prevent this again. Not going to pressure wash it again...but still kinda worried about using a regular hose and heavy rains on it. My motorcycles can take more water pressure than this car which is odd.
I got it to start back up after draining the battery compartment in the hatch (had about an inch of water at the bottom). I also wiped off the terminals but they were not really wet at all. Maybe some condensation.
Trunk carpet was dry. Hatch area dry. Just had 1" of water in the bottom of the battery compartment.
Just want to prevent this again. Not going to pressure wash it again...but still kinda worried about using a regular hose and heavy rains on it. My motorcycles can take more water pressure than this car which is odd.
#4
After a very heavy rain our R53 had about an inch of water in the battery comparment. I checked the drains on the sun roof and on the bottom lip of the boot hatch and they both were clean. I then bought a tube of clear caulk and sealed the antenna mast, third brake light and boot hatch handle. That was three years ago. Sofar so good. I now am in the habit of inspecting the battery compartment every time it sits in the rain or when the mood strikes during my weekly preflights.
#5
Long story short, immediately below the battery there is a depression right where the long battery hold-down screw goes. In the middle of that depression there is a hole that was sealed by the rubber compound that Mini sprayed the battery well with. Peel that rubber away and you will have a DRAIN in the battery well that is already at the LOWEST point.
I went at it from below the battery well. Disconnect the four plastic nuts that hold on the battery well stone guard and pull it off. Then cut/pull the rubber away from that hole. Replace the stone guard. Done
#6
Welp, this morning I get a call from my SO saying the car shuts off for a sec or two turning left or right. She gets to work and it's doing the electrical dance again, wont go back on. So weird after it was running fine for a day. I'm going to tool up and get over there. Guess I'm gonna miss a day of work for trying to wash this thing. :/
Week 3 of Mini ownership, questionable.
Week 3 of Mini ownership, questionable.
#7
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#8
I went through this and I think I literally fried the 200 amp fuse in the box next to the battery. But my battery well was nearly full up to the battery terminals.
Long story short, immediately below the battery there is a depression right where the long battery hold-down screw goes. In the middle of that depression there is a hole that was sealed by the rubber compound that Mini sprayed the battery well with. Peel that rubber away and you will have a DRAIN in the battery well that is already at the LOWEST point.
I went at it from below the battery well. Disconnect the four plastic nuts that hold on the battery well stone guard and pull it off. Then cut/pull the rubber away from that hole. Replace the stone guard. Done
Long story short, immediately below the battery there is a depression right where the long battery hold-down screw goes. In the middle of that depression there is a hole that was sealed by the rubber compound that Mini sprayed the battery well with. Peel that rubber away and you will have a DRAIN in the battery well that is already at the LOWEST point.
I went at it from below the battery well. Disconnect the four plastic nuts that hold on the battery well stone guard and pull it off. Then cut/pull the rubber away from that hole. Replace the stone guard. Done
After todays new experience with the car dying, maybe the fuse is damaged and not recharging the battery correctly?
It's only reading at 11.9v with my multimeter so its fairly low. I had to jump the battery to get the car to go again...but once I got home and shut the car off it won't restart.
#9
#10
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#12
It won't be the first time I have had weird things happen like this.
Please note: Mini Coopers use sophisticated BMW electronics. They require a very stable battery. Many of the cheaper batteries are not stabilized and cause all sorts of electronic hell on Mini Coopers.
Not telling you what to use, but I use Interstate batteries, as they are stabilized and have worked flawlessly on Minis I have dealt with. There are several other brands that are also good. (I sell used Mini Coopers)
The thing is with a good battery, the voltage stays around 14.1 to 14.2 max charge. Cheaper batteries can get up to 14.8/14.9 volts and Mini Coopers electronics can not deal with that much fluctuation. (this also has things to do with OEM charging systems)
Interstate also makes Optima batteries
Please note: Mini Coopers use sophisticated BMW electronics. They require a very stable battery. Many of the cheaper batteries are not stabilized and cause all sorts of electronic hell on Mini Coopers.
Not telling you what to use, but I use Interstate batteries, as they are stabilized and have worked flawlessly on Minis I have dealt with. There are several other brands that are also good. (I sell used Mini Coopers)
The thing is with a good battery, the voltage stays around 14.1 to 14.2 max charge. Cheaper batteries can get up to 14.8/14.9 volts and Mini Coopers electronics can not deal with that much fluctuation. (this also has things to do with OEM charging systems)
Interstate also makes Optima batteries
#15
It won't be the first time I have had weird things happen like this.
Please note: Mini Coopers use sophisticated BMW electronics. They require a very stable battery. Many of the cheaper batteries are not stabilized and cause all sorts of electronic hell on Mini Coopers.
Not telling you what to use, but I use Interstate batteries, as they are stabilized and have worked flawlessly on Minis I have dealt with. There are several other brands that are also good. (I sell used Mini Coopers)
The thing is with a good battery, the voltage stays around 14.1 to 14.2 max charge. Cheaper batteries can get up to 14.8/14.9 volts and Mini Coopers electronics can not deal with that much fluctuation. (this also has things to do with OEM charging systems)
Interstate also makes Optima batteries
Please note: Mini Coopers use sophisticated BMW electronics. They require a very stable battery. Many of the cheaper batteries are not stabilized and cause all sorts of electronic hell on Mini Coopers.
Not telling you what to use, but I use Interstate batteries, as they are stabilized and have worked flawlessly on Minis I have dealt with. There are several other brands that are also good. (I sell used Mini Coopers)
The thing is with a good battery, the voltage stays around 14.1 to 14.2 max charge. Cheaper batteries can get up to 14.8/14.9 volts and Mini Coopers electronics can not deal with that much fluctuation. (this also has things to do with OEM charging systems)
Interstate also makes Optima batteries
#16
The problem battery was an Interstate. The new battery is a Walmart Everstart that is staying at 14.1 steady. Go figure. But again it might have just been it's time to go. I'm glad to hear it's a good thing the battery volts are not fluctuating under revs. I've heard good things about it on Porsche forums surprisingly.
Last edited by MF-DIF; 02-02-2017 at 05:49 AM.
#18
The saga continues. Last week the car wouldn't start after sitting for about 4 days. I had to jump it. Drove around for 2 days and the car seemed fine. I said maybe I accidentally left a dome light on.
Came out yesterday after it sat for 2 days. No crank 8.25 volts on the new battery. That is beyond dead.
Any suggestions? I feel like something it is draining it since when the car is running the battery is delivering 14.1v. Or maybe the alternator is only working sometimes?
Only things in the car that I could think of is my passenger seat mat emulator, which according to the vendor only uses 500 milamps and would take 2yrs to kill a battery...it has 3 led lights on it that constantly stay on on the 1"x2" controller box. And also a USB charging port plugged into the lighter socket. I've removed all that just in case but fear it is more. It can't be that simple, nothing on this car is LOL
Came out yesterday after it sat for 2 days. No crank 8.25 volts on the new battery. That is beyond dead.
Any suggestions? I feel like something it is draining it since when the car is running the battery is delivering 14.1v. Or maybe the alternator is only working sometimes?
Only things in the car that I could think of is my passenger seat mat emulator, which according to the vendor only uses 500 milamps and would take 2yrs to kill a battery...it has 3 led lights on it that constantly stay on on the 1"x2" controller box. And also a USB charging port plugged into the lighter socket. I've removed all that just in case but fear it is more. It can't be that simple, nothing on this car is LOL
Last edited by MF-DIF; 02-20-2017 at 02:42 PM.
#19
I had a similar problem with my Dodge 2500...Ok..not a Mini...finally traced it to the switch for the glovebox....not sure what the moral of the story is ...but I'd try looking for something that's draining energy from your battery...there are a few videos on Youtube you might try...
Here's one...
Here's one...
#20
Are you hitting the lock switch when you walk away? Unlocked, there are little critters in there scratching they little butts and wondering what kind of trouble to get into all the while sucking down battery juice.
On another note for anybody else watching: An acquaintance took their MINI to the dealer for service and the dealership washed their car. Now it won't function correctly either. The moral? DON'T let dealerships wash your car and don't ever even slow down past a car wash.
On another note for anybody else watching: An acquaintance took their MINI to the dealer for service and the dealership washed their car. Now it won't function correctly either. The moral? DON'T let dealerships wash your car and don't ever even slow down past a car wash.
#21
#22
Back to the beginning
Within the battery well on the right side of the battery there is a box mounted to the wall of the well. That is where the fuse is located.
Given all the issues you have had, battery draining, car not working intermittently, car not starting - I suggest you pull the battery and open and inspect that box and its fuse. Its pretty easy and cheap/free to inspect. Its pretty simple in there, big positive cable going in, ultimately attaches to fuse, and then goes out. Given the nature of the car this may not be the first time water got into the battery well.
When I opened mine in addition to the fuse being visibly broken there was what looked to be the a black goo all over the entire interior of the box. I'm guessing its the desolidified rubber that is sprayed on the walls of the battery well. Just guessing that water and battery current caused it. If you are in the same boat this could be the cause of your drain on the battery and other electrical gremlins. Given that you didn't have this problem b4 the water in the well.........and this is in the well, maybe this is the problem. See link for what the box looks like and its location:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-of-water.html
Otherwise, the intermittent operation and starting issue makes me think that a relay for engine, not starter, operation then this is what I would locate and check. If it is the problem its just possible it could cause a battery drain like you are seeing. Other thing that will cause intermittent operation is a poor ground. Look at this link for all relays and fuses and Grounds
http://www.mini2.com/forum/maintenan...th-points.html
Good luck
Bruce
#23
MF-DIF
When this thread started (the flooded battery) I began to wonder if there wasn't something else going on.
How many videos have you seen of cars underwater in lakes with the headlights still on?
How can the battery well fill up without the carpet above it getting wet?
How can someone fry a 200amp fuse (later car) without also frying some other component?
It would help to know the exact country, year, month & model & what options are programmed. MINI has made many many changes over the years.
I've had a June of '02 Cooper 'S' with NO options for 3 years now - this morning I discovered I could close the window by locking the door & holding the key!
I came across this link - it may be common knowledge, but I hadn't seen it before. Although it seems to be headed 2006, it refers to 2002-2005 cars.
eg - the interior lights will only stay on for 16 minutes no matter what - see page 30.....
eg - the crash inertia switch was moved & combined with the airbag module in November '02.
http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/BODY...L%20MODULE.pdf
A very common problem seems to be water getting into the Body Control Module BCM or BC1 to the right side of the right footwell & I suspect that's where your problem lies.
It seems to me that if you change it, rather than dry it out or fix it, you also have to change other modules & then get the whole lot re-programmed at a dealership. Others may know differently.
As a result of another thread, I've discovered that it's possible to lock someone in the car, using the key fob, & they cannot get out. Two people at least have died as a result of this feature. Whilst I understand it's common in Europe & on a few USA MB, BMW & Land Rovers, I consider it to be a potentially lethal arrangement - in fact I'm surprised it's allowed by law.
Good luck - please let us know how you get on.
Mike
_________________________
MVPeters@comcast.net
When this thread started (the flooded battery) I began to wonder if there wasn't something else going on.
How many videos have you seen of cars underwater in lakes with the headlights still on?
How can the battery well fill up without the carpet above it getting wet?
How can someone fry a 200amp fuse (later car) without also frying some other component?
It would help to know the exact country, year, month & model & what options are programmed. MINI has made many many changes over the years.
I've had a June of '02 Cooper 'S' with NO options for 3 years now - this morning I discovered I could close the window by locking the door & holding the key!
I came across this link - it may be common knowledge, but I hadn't seen it before. Although it seems to be headed 2006, it refers to 2002-2005 cars.
eg - the interior lights will only stay on for 16 minutes no matter what - see page 30.....
eg - the crash inertia switch was moved & combined with the airbag module in November '02.
http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/BODY...L%20MODULE.pdf
A very common problem seems to be water getting into the Body Control Module BCM or BC1 to the right side of the right footwell & I suspect that's where your problem lies.
It seems to me that if you change it, rather than dry it out or fix it, you also have to change other modules & then get the whole lot re-programmed at a dealership. Others may know differently.
As a result of another thread, I've discovered that it's possible to lock someone in the car, using the key fob, & they cannot get out. Two people at least have died as a result of this feature. Whilst I understand it's common in Europe & on a few USA MB, BMW & Land Rovers, I consider it to be a potentially lethal arrangement - in fact I'm surprised it's allowed by law.
Good luck - please let us know how you get on.
Mike
_________________________
MVPeters@comcast.net
#24
MF-DIF
When this thread started (the flooded battery) I began to wonder if there wasn't something else going on.
How many videos have you seen of cars underwater in lakes with the headlights still on?
How can the battery well fill up without the carpet above it getting wet?
How can someone fry a 200amp fuse (later car) without also frying some other component?
It would help to know the exact country, year, month & model & what options are programmed. MINI has made many many changes over the years.
I've had a June of '02 Cooper 'S' with NO options for 3 years now - this morning I discovered I could close the window by locking the door & holding the key!
I came across this link - it may be common knowledge, but I hadn't seen it before. Although it seems to be headed 2006, it refers to 2002-2005 cars.
eg - the interior lights will only stay on for 16 minutes no matter what - see page 30.....
eg - the crash inertia switch was moved & combined with the airbag module in November '02.
http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/BODY...L%20MODULE.pdf
A very common problem seems to be water getting into the Body Control Module BCM or BC1 to the right side of the right footwell & I suspect that's where your problem lies.
It seems to me that if you change it, rather than dry it out or fix it, you also have to change other modules & then get the whole lot re-programmed at a dealership. Others may know differently.
As a result of another thread, I've discovered that it's possible to lock someone in the car, using the key fob, & they cannot get out. Two people at least have died as a result of this feature. Whilst I understand it's common in Europe & on a few USA MB, BMW & Land Rovers, I consider it to be a potentially lethal arrangement - in fact I'm surprised it's allowed by law.
Good luck - please let us know how you get on.
Mike
_________________________
MVPeters@comcast.net
When this thread started (the flooded battery) I began to wonder if there wasn't something else going on.
How many videos have you seen of cars underwater in lakes with the headlights still on?
How can the battery well fill up without the carpet above it getting wet?
How can someone fry a 200amp fuse (later car) without also frying some other component?
It would help to know the exact country, year, month & model & what options are programmed. MINI has made many many changes over the years.
I've had a June of '02 Cooper 'S' with NO options for 3 years now - this morning I discovered I could close the window by locking the door & holding the key!
I came across this link - it may be common knowledge, but I hadn't seen it before. Although it seems to be headed 2006, it refers to 2002-2005 cars.
eg - the interior lights will only stay on for 16 minutes no matter what - see page 30.....
eg - the crash inertia switch was moved & combined with the airbag module in November '02.
http://wtxmc.org/MiniCooperDocs/BODY...L%20MODULE.pdf
A very common problem seems to be water getting into the Body Control Module BCM or BC1 to the right side of the right footwell & I suspect that's where your problem lies.
It seems to me that if you change it, rather than dry it out or fix it, you also have to change other modules & then get the whole lot re-programmed at a dealership. Others may know differently.
As a result of another thread, I've discovered that it's possible to lock someone in the car, using the key fob, & they cannot get out. Two people at least have died as a result of this feature. Whilst I understand it's common in Europe & on a few USA MB, BMW & Land Rovers, I consider it to be a potentially lethal arrangement - in fact I'm surprised it's allowed by law.
Good luck - please let us know how you get on.
Mike
_________________________
MVPeters@comcast.net
MVPETERS - Your post just came off a little too snooty. Wasn't gonna take the bait but just couldn't resist. So.....
Oh great and powerful Oz (MVPeters) please look kindly on us mere mortals who attempt to help others and describe our own challenges. Do not rebuke us as we stand in the temple for enlightenment. But, instead share with us your wisdom, for in the light of your ominous-ous, (dibs- new word) our problems evaporate like the morning dew... LOL
Back to reality - MVPeters - agree with you that BCM could indeed cause what OP is seeing but..... first rule of logical troubleshooting, always, always, always check the cheapest, easiest stuff first.
I also agree with you that blowing a 200 amp fuse might indeed cause additional problems. But, in my post, I didn't lie, I did indeed, go to NAPA, bought a new fuse and replaced it and then fired my car up with minimal idiot lights & codes that I promptly cleared. Ran the car within 15 minutes and to this date have not had a single problem. Could be the fuse did not blow, perhaps it was electrolysis corrosion, OR since the entire battery well was FULL, and the fuse was under water, and my carpet was dry, it had a direct path to ground, thus not impacting any of the other delicate electronics located elsewhere. Imply, or call me an idiot, but my car runs well.
Last word to you.. Oz
ROFLOL
Bruce