Crank case vent valve?
Crank case vent valve?
2008 Mini hardtop base, automatic, approx. 102k miles. No turbo (that makes her an R12, I think?).
Bought Georgina used about six months ago and my husband pretty much replaced the entire intake system, then had to replace the timing chain. We dug pieces out of the oil pan, all that good stuff, and after a few hiccups over tightening down the Vanos sprocket completely, she's running like a charm.
Except now I'm adding oil to the tune of 3 quarts every five weeks or so. 😕
No oil under the car, no puddle in the drive, and no obvious smoke clouds behind me as I drive. It's not showing up in the coolant, nothing. Going somewhere, though. 😏
Took it to the local import repair place for guesstimates on diagnostic costs and to order a new oil pour cap, and the tech agreed that this was more oil than a Mini should use even at the high end, and generously made some phone calls to other Mini mechanics to get additional input.
Zero oil issues before the timing chain was replaced, so logic tells me the two are likely related. When Marcos called me back today and said it was either the turbo going out (base model; no turbo) or the crank case vent valve getting knocked around when my husband changed the timing chain, well ... ding, ding, ding!!
At $250 for diagnostics and another $800 for labor (Mini dealership quotes almost twice that), my husband is about to learn yet another new Mini maintenance technique. 😉
So ... does the valve need to be adjusted back into place or actually replaced? Where's the little booger located? Any tips to do this right?
Videos or tutorials online would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Jenny and Georgina
Bought Georgina used about six months ago and my husband pretty much replaced the entire intake system, then had to replace the timing chain. We dug pieces out of the oil pan, all that good stuff, and after a few hiccups over tightening down the Vanos sprocket completely, she's running like a charm.
Except now I'm adding oil to the tune of 3 quarts every five weeks or so. 😕
No oil under the car, no puddle in the drive, and no obvious smoke clouds behind me as I drive. It's not showing up in the coolant, nothing. Going somewhere, though. 😏
Took it to the local import repair place for guesstimates on diagnostic costs and to order a new oil pour cap, and the tech agreed that this was more oil than a Mini should use even at the high end, and generously made some phone calls to other Mini mechanics to get additional input.
Zero oil issues before the timing chain was replaced, so logic tells me the two are likely related. When Marcos called me back today and said it was either the turbo going out (base model; no turbo) or the crank case vent valve getting knocked around when my husband changed the timing chain, well ... ding, ding, ding!!
At $250 for diagnostics and another $800 for labor (Mini dealership quotes almost twice that), my husband is about to learn yet another new Mini maintenance technique. 😉
So ... does the valve need to be adjusted back into place or actually replaced? Where's the little booger located? Any tips to do this right?
Videos or tutorials online would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Jenny and Georgina
More bad news --- your crankcase vent valve is built into the valve cover --- no adjustments. New valve cover costs over $300 but is easily replaceable. Only tip I have is to add some extra sealant around the driver side curves --- typical leak spots. Not sure where to find a video or procedure, other than the trusty Bentley manual --- another $100, for bolt tightening sequence and torque specs.
Just to be sure that this is the actual problem, you should rig up a home made catch can. If the catch can is filling up with oil, you found the issue. If it isn't then you have a valve seal or piston ring issue.
Just a thought before you invest big money in parts.
Just a thought before you invest big money in parts.
As said above, the crankcase breather hose is clipped to the rear right of the valve cover, and the crankcase breather is integrated into the cover. We have a tech article HERE that can help you with the replacement. It should help you save some money and only take around 2 hours of your time. We have the updated valve cover, which includes the gaskets and crank case vent valve HERE. Let me know if you have any questions.
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Because I think "Nigel the 4th", seems to be partaking a bit much in the oil usage.
There is a threasd about catch cans here https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...catch-can.html
Your mini is non turbo so the system will probably be simpler tan the turbo car which requires two vents. I haven't owned an N12 so I can't say exactly how it should be done but essentially you reroute the crankcase breather to a catch can which is vented to atmosphere. Any excess oil being vented will be caught in the can, thus the phrase "catch can".
Your engine shouldn't vent oil. It only does so if overfilled, or if the crankcase pressure is too high which is generally a sign of bad piston rings. (combustion pressure leaking past the rings pressurizes the crankcase). Some engines with performance mods tend to accelerate ring wear and they start to vent or some run loose ring end gaps that also cause the same issue. Lots of reasons but you are simply troubleshooting to see where your oil is going, which will tell us what is happening inside the engine.
Hope this helps!
Your mini is non turbo so the system will probably be simpler tan the turbo car which requires two vents. I haven't owned an N12 so I can't say exactly how it should be done but essentially you reroute the crankcase breather to a catch can which is vented to atmosphere. Any excess oil being vented will be caught in the can, thus the phrase "catch can".
Your engine shouldn't vent oil. It only does so if overfilled, or if the crankcase pressure is too high which is generally a sign of bad piston rings. (combustion pressure leaking past the rings pressurizes the crankcase). Some engines with performance mods tend to accelerate ring wear and they start to vent or some run loose ring end gaps that also cause the same issue. Lots of reasons but you are simply troubleshooting to see where your oil is going, which will tell us what is happening inside the engine.
Hope this helps!
Still fighting it ...
Thanks for all the suggestions! The car has been out of commission for a couple of weeks for a new water pump (which it didn't need), new pipe to the water pump (which broke going in and had to be reordered), and husband taking the valve cover off and the gasket we ordered being shipped as if we have a convertible (nope). Sigh ... but finally running again. 
He took the valve cover off so we could gently shake to see if the pcv was clogged and not guess about spending that $300+ for a new cover.
The problem? There's nothing on the underside of the valve cover, unlike all the pictures I've seen online.
So where's the PCV? 😳

He took the valve cover off so we could gently shake to see if the pcv was clogged and not guess about spending that $300+ for a new cover.
The problem? There's nothing on the underside of the valve cover, unlike all the pictures I've seen online.
So where's the PCV? 😳
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it is built in the head cover. you would have to break it or split it in half to get to it. Try Aliexpress.com from some Chinese knock of for about 50% less. also, did you guys check the oil pan gasket. it might be dripping there onto the exhaust and getting burned while driving!
it is built in the head cover. you would have to break it or split it in half to get to it. Try Aliexpress.com from some Chinese knock of for about 50% less. also, did you guys check the oil pan gasket. it might be dripping there onto the exhaust and getting burned while driving!
Oil pan gasket is new and there's no sign of a leak based on the very clean underside of the car. If it weren't for the fact that I'm constantly out of oil, there'd be zero indication of a problem. 😏
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