Boost leak?
Boost leak?
Hello all you, I have a Alta accessport on my car, I was running a stage 1 92 octane tune in my car and was getting 18-19psi. My car started to run a little rougher at idle though due to the gas I as running through it. So I changed the tune to stage 1 91 octane until I got better gas to run through my car. When I finally got the better octane to run, I returned to the 92 octane tune and now I'm only seeing 14.6psi Max. Would you guys say that it's due to a boost leak or it's the computer?
Before I got the tune on my car I was running 12psi and 14psi with over boost so the tune is really not doing much for me now.
Thanks!
Before I got the tune on my car I was running 12psi and 14psi with over boost so the tune is really not doing much for me now.
Thanks!
I would guess ECU, there is adaptive code, try ECU reset, or if its same as before is tune loading, It may also relearn knock sensor adjustments in 300 miles. pedal speed is an input try foot up off throttle then down. Cant always clear fuel in one shot add cleaner booster. should go to 20psi for you up in higher rpms do you use the whole range once in a while
Originally Posted by Euler-Spiral
I would guess ECU, there is adaptive code, try ECU reset, or if its same as before is tune loading, It may also relearn knock sensor adjustments in 300 miles. pedal speed is an input try foot up off throttle then down. Cant always clear fuel in one shot add cleaner booster. should go to 20psi for you up in higher rpms do you use the whole range once in a while
Ok octane should be good. The electronic throttle pedal registers angle change over time it doesnt even really relate to a throttle body butterfly valve position. when you log it you see a sine-wave like graph. it takes speed vs ignition fuel etc and guesses what you want, so wide open throttle is relative to how fast you press on the throttle giving different map paths,,,,,
so if your foot is moving before it gets to the pedal it sees a fast spike and may interpret it as a need for max mapped response. No need to try more than once but work up to anything aggressive it could suddenly get with it and take off.
There are electronic aides to remap or amplify the pedal inputs, Sprint booster I think is one also tuners can adjust some of this, but because engines are all slightly different and change as they age or get different fuel grades, there is adaptive code to compensate and just plain adaptive run modes, Yes its all tied together and if for some reason temps or o2 readings or knock signals dont match up the ECU backs off,
In the other direction if you spend time running around the track at 6500rpm and everything is working it will stay in a more responsive state for awhile Im not sure of the time to reset by itself but the 300 mile bit is something I kind of notice
so if your foot is moving before it gets to the pedal it sees a fast spike and may interpret it as a need for max mapped response. No need to try more than once but work up to anything aggressive it could suddenly get with it and take off.
There are electronic aides to remap or amplify the pedal inputs, Sprint booster I think is one also tuners can adjust some of this, but because engines are all slightly different and change as they age or get different fuel grades, there is adaptive code to compensate and just plain adaptive run modes, Yes its all tied together and if for some reason temps or o2 readings or knock signals dont match up the ECU backs off,
In the other direction if you spend time running around the track at 6500rpm and everything is working it will stay in a more responsive state for awhile Im not sure of the time to reset by itself but the 300 mile bit is something I kind of notice
Originally Posted by Euler-Spiral
Ok octane should be good. The electronic throttle pedal registers angle change over time it doesnt even really relate to a throttle body butterfly valve position. when you log it you see a sine-wave like graph. it takes speed vs ignition fuel etc and guesses what you want, so wide open throttle is relative to how fast you press on the throttle giving different map paths,,,,,
so if your foot is moving before it gets to the pedal it sees a fast spike and may interpret it as a need for max mapped response. No need to try more than once but work up to anything aggressive it could suddenly get with it and take off.
There are electronic aides to remap or amplify the pedal inputs, Sprint booster I think is one also tuners can adjust some of this, but because engines are all slightly different and change as they age or get different fuel grades, there is adaptive code to compensate and just plain adaptive run modes, Yes its all tied together and if for some reason temps or o2 readings or knock signals dont match up the ECU backs off,
In the other direction if you spend time running around the track at 6500rpm and everything is working it will stay in a more responsive state for awhile Im not sure of the time to reset by itself but the 300 mile bit is something I kind of notice
so if your foot is moving before it gets to the pedal it sees a fast spike and may interpret it as a need for max mapped response. No need to try more than once but work up to anything aggressive it could suddenly get with it and take off.
There are electronic aides to remap or amplify the pedal inputs, Sprint booster I think is one also tuners can adjust some of this, but because engines are all slightly different and change as they age or get different fuel grades, there is adaptive code to compensate and just plain adaptive run modes, Yes its all tied together and if for some reason temps or o2 readings or knock signals dont match up the ECU backs off,
In the other direction if you spend time running around the track at 6500rpm and everything is working it will stay in a more responsive state for awhile Im not sure of the time to reset by itself but the 300 mile bit is something I kind of notice
Cooler air is denser and lowers intake air temps so you get better power. I actually keep reporting my cylinder heads ect. to use less boost psi, boost psi is a measure of resistance to air flow check your maf readings 1.6L running 1psi and 40lb/min at 5000rpm would be out of this world,,,,,, yes I get long winded sorry
Originally Posted by Euler-Spiral
Cooler air is denser and lowers intake air temps so you get better power. I actually keep reporting my cylinder heads ect. to use less boost psi, boost psi is a measure of resistance to air flow check your maf readings 1.6L running 1psi and 40lb/min at 5000rpm would be out of this world,,,,,, yes I get long winded sorry
ha ha. But i wonder if a 10degree drop in temps would cause a 4-5psi drop. The car does feel slower to. I'm going to check the maf sensor to see if it's gummed up and see if I can't log that also. If none of this works then I might just have to try to go to stage 2 ap tune (after supporting mod) and see what that does. Do you know if any one offers support for the Accessport?
Last edited by SpuuDy; Sep 14, 2016 at 07:46 PM.
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I might have just solved my problem. When you load a tune/ reflash ecu with the ap it'll take you to a screen instructing you to turn off the car and wait 10 seconds. I am assuming this is so the tune can load. When it gets to that screen I have just been turning it off and then just going about my day.
Edit: this did not fix it, still the same..
Edit: this did not fix it, still the same..
Last edited by SpuuDy; Sep 15, 2016 at 02:20 PM.
Originally Posted by NJ Mini
How many miles do you have on the car?
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