I didnt bother with the tool. The took does help hold the camshaft so you can remove that sprocket but using an impact or having someone hold the crank while you remove the cam sprocket worked for me. I bought mine from ECS for around 150$ It didnt come with the timing chain cover gasket though. You can easily wait and only replace what you need to as far as the guides go. unlikely that you actually need to replace the chain ether. but while youre in there...

Guides, guide bolts, valve cover gasket, timing chain cover gasket, tensioner and tensioner washer.

Could also do some of the random o rings that you may have access to as well. Dig in and replace stuff as needed.

 

Jeff, we have timing kits on hand and ready to ship, as well as the required tools to do the job right. Using an impact to torque any engine components is a huge NO NO, the only way to do the job properly is to use the cam lock tool and a torque wrench.

Detroit Tuned G1 Timing Chain Kit

Detroit Tuned Rental Tools You'll need the belt tool, crank pulley removal & install tools, cam lock.

Can you see any copper links at all? I've seen chains before that the copper coating had worn off and had no timing marks left. At that point you're pulling the timing cover and retiming the engine with a new kit.

Nick

 

Nick I found the kit locally. There was no copper links they were just darker then the other links and they had circles stamped in to them.

 

And was the car in time?

 

I was only able to line up the camshaft marks once. I turned the crankshaft by hand for a while. Once I get the cover off I'll know for sure, but I suspect its out of time.

 

I'd say it's out of time. The tensioner seems to be frozen and the one guide is cracked in two. How do the timing marks go before you install the chain?

 

Yikes! Drain the oil, you're going to have to drop the oil pan. If you have the new tensioners there is a piece of plastic bonded onto the cracked piece that you're looking at that has likely circulated or attempted to through your oil. I found a large piece plugging my oil pickup tube. If you already bought the kit it should have replacement guides, a new chain and a new tensioner. When reinstalling match up the two copper links with the crank marks and the one copper link with the cam.

 

I would love to drain the oil,but the previuos owner torqued the drain plug on so tight I cant budge it. They rounded it off.

 

hopefully the motor isnt damaged because of the plastic in the oil. I'm going to put the motor back together and try to start it. I need to make sure the engine is ok. Then do the oil pan.

 

Do you have an R53 or R50? Honestly, what I believe made my car skip time was first the tensioner allowing some slack and ultimately breaking the same tensioner that broke on yours then a piece of it getting caught in the chain which encourages the teeth to skip. I can only assume this contributed because I found a few larger pieces on the valves that should not have been there at all.




You'll need to get the drain out at some point, may as well try to get it off right now while the car is already down than have to go back in and drop the pan and have your car down again.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions!

 

I installed the timing chain set. It still won't start. I don't think it's getting fuel past the injectors.

 

I pulled the fuel rail and had the wife turn the engine over. Fuel does come out of the injectors. I think I will buy new spark plugs tomorrow. Other then that I'm scratching my head wondering what's else can be wrong.

 

I found this picture on minimania.com

 

These pictures are from a chiltons repair manual. I set my timing marks like them.

 

https://www.facebook.com/jeff.lewis.357/videos/10207515901756452/

 

Could I have a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensor even though I'm getting no codes? Also I have 57 psi at the fuel rail.

 

well it runs but has issues. I think its time to pull it out and either rebuild or find another engine.http://www.facebook.com/jeff.lewis.3...7532844660014/

 

Yowch! Yeah, My bet is that when the timing was off, the piston hit the valves and caused some damage. Hopefully it's just a new head.

 

Yeah. Something squeaks also. When I revved it a bit it squeaked and died. I suspect the supercharger, but I'm new to the S engine. My last mini was a base model. I did find a running S engine locally on craigslist for $450. I may go that route and save this engine for a winter project.

 

I would just take that head off and have a look before yanking the motor. It's pretty easy to do and doesn't really take that much time. You didn't say you heard any knocking so the pistons and crank might still be ok.

The squeaking is probably just a pulley. The superchargers don't really squeak, they kind of grind when they're bad.

 

Shawnnn Should the supercharger turn easy by hand?

 

Not easily, it does turn everything inside, but yes you should be able to turn it.

The part that usually goes on them are the water pump gears, it can run out of oil and chew up the gears inside.

 

Ok I'll look at it tonight I also might check the oil psi

 

Well I swapped in another engine over the weekend. This one I was told was a running engine. Not in my mini it isn't. How do you tell if the ecu is bad. Still no codes as before the swap.

 

What does it do when you attempt to start it? Are you using the ecu that came with the engine or the original ECU that came with the car?