I have read multiple threads but I am not sure I have my answer. I have a code P0128 and am pretty sure it is a stuck thermostat.

I have been told that it could be the temp sensor, but the coolant is very cool even after running the engine - if it were just the sensor the coolant would reach operating temp.

Anyway, I am going to replace the thermostat and housing. My main question is how difficult is it to do the job and more important, are there any special tools needed? I've tried a couple of things and each time i start a job it needs a special Mini tool

Any help or advice would be really appreciated!

(2007 Mini Coupe with N12 engine)

 

I have a 2010 s and my housing started leaking bad this afternoon. From what I can find its 3 10mm bolts for the housing a few connectors and a few hose clamps. What I read label the connectors and the hose clamps are going to be the hardest. I read a 10mm ratchet a flat head screw driver and a good pair of pliers and an hour or so of you time to do the job. We're did you get your parts from I'm not to sure we're to order i was thinking about Ecs tuning

 

Here is a video from Mini Mania on the work involved.

 

Fortunately my housing isn't leaking but the thermostat is stuck.

I have had great luck with Pelican Parts so I will likely order from them although I have also used ECS in the past for my VWs with much success as well. It is probably going to come down to who can deliver it to my door the quickest.

 

Thanks!

 

We have them in stock , we are pretty fast. 11537534521

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...lant-leak.html

 

Question: I saw 5 different choices - what is the major differences between the various kits?

Thanks!

 

Just three different brands, two brands with Genuine MINI 3 x hardware like it the pic above.

 

Is one brand recommended over another? I did notice the finish on the outside of one looked cleaner (less flash) than the others, but it isn't the outside I am worried about

 

The bremmen one we have in stock and is just like the Genuine MINI one. The Genuine MINI one cost more and has been going in and out of stock. Mostly out of stock for the last couple months.

 

Well then, I'll take one

Finally, I don't suppose that price include installation....

 

Welcome.

We all wish that

 

One final question (I am sure this is answered elsewhere but since I have the thread going ) is there a suitable alternative to the BMW coolant? I really do not feel like driving an hour and 15 minutes to the nearest BMW dealer, or the nearly 2 hours to the nearest Mini dealer to get the factory stuff unless I really, really have to.

 

The thermostat housing arrived today - great quality and fast shipping etc. However, I thought it came with the three bolts. Since it didn't does anyone know the size of those bolts? I'd like to use new ones for the install.

As always, thanks!

 

Only the kit come with the bolts. The thermostat on its own does not.

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...aign=postreply



The screws/ bolts are here:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11537565526/ES25142/

M6x28 in size. Metric thread of course.

 

I see. Does anything else come with the kits that I may want?

Thanks.

 

Welcome.

The kit has the bolts, we have other kits that have the water pump, water pipe, expansion tank, and MINI Coolant. Get all the issues out of the way. I did all on mine on my R56 Cooper S a once, or if those were done before, then your fine. The big issuse is having the older non metal ( plastic ) water pump housings, those tend to leak. Its all in the link above in the NO HEAt thraed : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-no-heat.html

https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2007-Cooper-R56-Base-Coupe-L4_1.6L_N12B16A/Engine/Cooling/

 

Got it... no problem at all. Thanks for all your help, I'll be tackling this today and tomorrow.

 

Okay, I'm having problems, naturally. :-)

I replaced the housing today. While removing the housing the water tube came loose from the water pump. I wanted to remove it to check it but there simply was not enough room to pull it out.

I pushed it back into place and it seemed to go in without issue. Finished the installation of the housing. Everything seems to fit right and go back together without major issue.

So, first problem: I only got about a gallon of liquid back into the system. I removed much more than that using a shop vac. So, what's going on?

Second problem: Leaks! I am concerned about that water tube - the water pump seems to have a nice, slow leak under load. There is also a second leak, also on the passenger side, and seems to be further towards the rear, like at the firewall.

Heat from the vents is warm, but not hot.

Bled the air - there didn't seem to be much - certainly not what I expected.

I am not opposed to taking it all apart again (it would be quicker the second time around), but I'd like to know what I'm looking for...

 

A little more information....

I double checked all the hoses this morning to be sure they are all connected correctly, they are (at least according to the diagrams posted elsewhere around here)

Last night when I filled the coolant and ran the car the cooling fans kicked on at once; this morning I started the car and let it run for 20 minutes and no cooling fans.

Inside the car, the heater is warm only when I run up the RPMs. At idle the air is cool.

There are no leaks inside the car - all the carpets are bone dry.

The leaks are very small this morning. At idle there are no leaks. Running up the RPMs causes a very slow drip under the car.

Finally,and this makes very little sense to me, no coolant or air comes out when I open the bleed screw on the thermostat housing.

I am ready to pull the intake manifold to check the water pipe, but being older and a little sore from yesterday I'd rather not start ripping things apart until I have some idea what the issue might be

I'm stumped and would love any thoughts!

 

Okay, I may be talking to myself here but the leak definitely seems to be the water tube under the intake manifold. It is spraying coolant on the firewall so there is not a second leak - just the same one dripping from multiple places.

So, my one question is this: will I be able to remove the 13mm nuts and tip the manifold away from the engine far enough to see the tube and be sure it is seated properly in the water pump? Is there an easier way to seat it?

The gentleman who replaced my water pump (they did it when they replaced my timing chain) seemed to have left the tube unbolted which is why I was able to pull it out of the water pump when I was removing the thermostat housing.

Any thoughts from the experts before I start pulling nuts and bolts?

Bueller, Bueller?

Thanks!

 

I would suggest taking the whole thing apart so you can have a better view of what is going on in there. Most likely the problem will be the water tube. Every time you replace the water pump or the thermostat you should replace the water tube just to be safe.

 

The water pipe doesn't have any bolts. It's mounted to the water pump with a friction seal provided by the o-ring. The other end is a clip captive "link" similar to that on the clutch master and slave cylinders which connects to the thermostat. I second the other user who said that the thermostat & pipe should be replaced together. I just replaced my clutch, and since I had everything apart, I thought I'd take the opportunity to do a "replacement upgrade" to silicone hoses. The thermostat ended up being very brittle, and broke when I was putting on the last hose. In that same instant, the water pipe snapped off from the o-ring end being left in the water pump orifice. Replace both...I replaced the pipe from below and behind the engine (transmission and everything below it was out of the way, so this was very straightforward)

 

Lol...."should only take an hour or so to replace (the thermostat)"...I wish....

 

I don't know, after doing it a couple times I can replace the housing and flush and fill the system in an hour - an hour and a half.

However, I honestly think it is easier to simply remove unbolt the intake manifold and at least check the water tube while you have things apart. If nothing else, it is quicker to unbolt the manifold than try and put that damn clip back on!