PCV valve in Valve cover was leaking. Also some freeze plugs were loose. Oil was in the engine bay and also out the tailpipe. The leaking oil damaged a lot of rubber components so I would fix it early.

 

ohh ok now that makes sense I thought you were talking about the valve cover gasket. Thanks for the info

 

what's up guys. I bought a 2011 MCS for my wife 3 months ago, 60k miles currently. I have a very annoying problem, when the car stays 5min in idle and accelerator comes out a cloud of white smoke of oil, then it gets clean. I was in the San Francisco Mini Dealer they charged me $ 135 for valve seals and $ 5k for labor, absurd. I'm in the San Francisco area, does anyone recommend a specialized exchange workshop that does not charge me 60% of the value of the car?

 

F,in Mini dealers....
Mine was about 2700 including full head re done valve seals Detroit tuned turbo oil lines...
Same problem as yours...at my repair shop...Btw: he is a Mini master tech and took 4 days.
Ben

 

so the mini dealer, charged me this value only for the exchange of the stem seals, if you need something else in the head, the value would increase. out that in value still does not include the seal of the valve cover. Because I'm new to California, I do not know where to take, workshops that understand this car. F**** peugeot engine! hahahahaha

 

I have a 2011 MCS R56. If the car idles a long period of time when you start to drive away then you get blue clouds of smoke out the exhaust. The blue clouds go away after a short bit of driving.
So is the consensus bad turbo, bad valve seals or bad PVC valve?

Thanks

 

When it come to oil out the exhaust it can be any number of things. Always start at the most simple or easiest thing and work toward the hardest. Pcv/vavle covers are a known problem with these cars. Check this first. If you have high vacuum under the vavle cover then you have a failed pcv/valve cover. There is a pressure/vacuum limiting valve inside the cover that fails. Full intake vacuum with a gasket leak will draw a larger amount of oil mist into the intake system.

 

As others have said, Valve Seals. My 2008 Justa ran fine, no smoke unless it sat idling. If idled for a few minutes it would begin to smoke quite noticeably.
In normal daily driving you wouldn't *notice* any smoke even if following the car, but the oily residue was all over the back of the (Mellow Yellow paint) car every day.
I replaced the valve seals without pulling the head (I would not recommend this) and I made a lengthy thread on the job.
The valve seal repair did absolutely fix the oil smoke issue with my Justa.

 

Ok so here's mine, 2011 N18 S smokes after idling long time, but not much during the cold months. I dont get oily residue on the hatch at all. But the smoke will be there again more often in the hotter days. Today was 50ish and it smoked up after work. I did have idling a bit in the morning when I got to work.

I cant think the seals or rings. Turbo is brand new

 

I can't think of a reason in the world anyone would need to idle their car for 20-30 minutes. Not sure about yours but my factory manual specifically states to start and pull away smartly (do not idle).

 

The age-old rule of thumb is:
White smoke = water
Black smoke = fuel
Blue smoke = oil
Grey smoke = ??

Try a thicker oil?
(& no idling!).

 

 

Never sit in traffic? Ever have to wait on line for the air pump?

 

Ha! Seems like I hit a nerve. Think of it as a learning moment. There are plenty of online articles that detail how a water-cooled, internal-combustion engine works.

 

Here is one reason... I was idling along in a Christmas parade.

 

Regardless of what all say have your car checked out, I did all above before finding out that I had a bad seal. Our cars there cars how water cooled engine works has nothing to do with abnormal smoke. After repair mine has no smoke now on stage 2 manic I can seat in X-mass paraed or traffic jam, if there is smoke there is fire bud.before fixing the car I killed some people behind me on traffic light.
PS: Oil catch can are wonderfull for direct injection cars.