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Replaced Drain Back Plunger, Now Oil Light

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Old 05-12-2016, 09:15 PM
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Replaced Drain Back Plunger, Now Oil Light

So I recently replaced the drain back plunger on my oil housing. Two weeks go by and no more light.... Now after a good run the light comes on at idle, but goes away at acceleration. Checked oil level and it is fine, so I'm guessing pressure? Just replaced the oil unit?
 
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Old 05-13-2016, 05:22 AM
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Check oil pressure switch & wiring.
 
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Old 05-13-2016, 06:02 AM
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Thats the next place i would check.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ring-idle.html


 
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Old 08-05-2018, 07:10 AM
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How

I can not find a replacement drain back plunger anywhere!! Where did you find yours?
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:33 PM
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Its part of the oil filter housing.
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:48 PM
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Drain back

someone should make or manufacture them since it is made of hard plastic instead of buying the entire oil filter housing for $300-400.00.
Similat to what WayMotors they manufacture vacuum hose clip...just a thought!!
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:42 PM
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There was guy who was making a prototype; haven't heard from him recently; will try to track down.
 
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:49 PM
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I found a reference to a guy who determined that the Ford Powerstroke 6.0 Litre motor used a part that was 'close enough' to work. Its on the 'MiniTorque.com' website.
 

Last edited by JAB 67; 08-07-2018 at 05:52 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:13 AM
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Dorman 904-261 is the part number for the drain back valve

It's probably just your oil pressure switch, I've killed 2 already. I think the heat from the exhaust may have something to do with it?
 
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:30 AM
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^ Never seen that used on the dorman, just found a thread on that. Thanks
 
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Old 08-08-2018, 10:21 AM
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I find it appalling with the common practice of people change out the pressure switch when the oil light comes on. If it were me, I will hook up a real gauge to find out what pressure I am getting, at idle and at driving RPMs. If you keep replacing the switch, may be there is something going on. Each switch will trip slightly different point around circa 4 PSI. They are not precision instrument. May be your oil pressure is 3 PSI at idle and 6 at driving because of the drain back valve failed. May be with that switch that you think is good it happens to trip at 2.5 PSI, and you tossed out the good switch that trip at 4 PSI.
 
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Old 08-08-2018, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by pnwR53S
I find it appalling with the common practice of people change out the pressure switch when the oil light comes on. If it were me, I will hook up a real gauge to find out what pressure I am getting, at idle and at driving RPMs. If you keep replacing the switch, may be there is something going on. Each switch will trip slightly different point around circa 4 PSI. They are not precision instrument. May be your oil pressure is 3 PSI at idle and 6 at driving because of the drain back valve failed. May be with that switch that you think is good it happens to trip at 2.5 PSI, and you tossed out the good switch that trip at 4 PSI.
I've had 2 OEM switches fail, it's a common occurrence with these cars and everyone knows it.

If your oil pressure was less than 10psi you would have some great noises that would accompany it as your timing chain would have slack, and the oil wedge at the bearings would be almost non-existent, and your hydraulic rockers would be close to pumping themselves dry.

I understand your caution with this but low oil pressure has a lot of other signs besides that light. If you want to be 100% sure, yes hook up a gauge.

Considering both of the failures I've seen had oil leaking through the switch I wasn't worried about actual low oil pressure. The factory switch is a piece of crap and I've considered trying to find a suitable replacement from another manufacturer but haven't wasted the time. What really doesn't help is being right next to the header in a car that runs silly high EGT.
 
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