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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
The level of the coolant on my tank is lowering despite i have added. Ive noticed some fluid next to the cap, so i guess that where it must be leaking from. Car has just over 100.000km, you think i should replace the whole tank or just the cap?
After 100K, I'd replace the tank regardless. There is a record of the plastic seam failing. I just replaced mine not long ago with one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-Cooper-...1T6n73&vxp=mtr
A buddy helped, pliers spread and slide the clamps down and push the hoses off with a flat blade screwdriver. Bolt the new can in place and lube the two pipes with a bit of coolant and the hoses slide right on and work the clamps back up.
Use a baster to suck the fluid out of the old tank and set it aside to replace when you're done.
Τhanx, on one hand, that alloy tank is gonna last for ever and i dont know if its worth keeping the mini for more than 5-6years. On the other hand how can one check the coolant level?
Τhanx, on one hand, that alloy tank is gonna last for ever and i dont know if its worth keeping the mini for more than 5-6years. On the other hand how can one check the coolant level?
The metal tank is about 25% more than an oem tank. Well worth the peace of mind. My oem tank had no leaks, but I replaced it with the metal tank as a ten year wear item. Figured that would be the last time the tank would need replacing. The fluid in the metal tank can only be visually inspected by removing the cap as had to be done on the oem tank since they turn a dark brown color as they age. It is recommended that the metal tank be kept half full of fluid which is about 18 ounces. I made a dipstick out of a clear drinking straw marking the half way point at two inches from the end with a Sharpy pen. Insert the straw, cover the end, remove and view. The simplest way to check the fluid level is to remember visually where the level should be above the baffle. The metal coolant tank is the easiest and most cost effective remedy for an "easy to fix weak link in the cooling system". PS-I reused the oem cap since it was functional. I do however keep a hot spare in the boot. Good luck.
Coolant level on my 2010 base was dropping slowly. Upon examination I noticed that the O ring around the barrel inside the cap was missing. Replaced the cap (less than $10 on ebay) and the level stays solid.
Tio Bary you do have an interesting point. Here is what my coolant tank cap looks like, but i cant really know if there is something missing, but i cant see an oring available! Can anyone one have a look on his own to see if it looks like mine? Just remember we are talking about a 2008 R56S coolant tank cap here.
I was doing all the cooling system at once, we had them in stock. Also the Forge ( metal ) one at the time was about a month out, they were sold out due to being so popular.
I was doing all the cooling system at once, we had them in stock. Also the Forge ( metal ) one at the time was about a month out, they were sold out due to being so popular.
Gotcha. Thought you had some skinny I wasn't aware of about the aluminum.
Regarding the O-ring, can one find it to place it instead of purchasing the whole cap? Isnt it a total waste to chuck away the cap just because of a small broken O-ring that costs very very little?
04-30-2016, 07:40 AM
