I have looked but have not seen any walk thru for pulling the engine on an 08 R56. If anyone knows of one could you please pass it onto me?

I did try a search so sorry in advance if I happened to overlook one.

 

I'm not sure if there are one's out there, but there are more than a handful of NAM members that have tackled this job on their R56. I'd probably shoot them a PM. I posted a few threads below for you for their usernames.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-in-there.html
This one is active currently - https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...8-r56-n12.html

 

thank you for the post I will read thru that last one. Im a little excited and nervous about this all rolled up lol. Can't wait to get this car back on the road.

p.s. your customer service is great when I have ordered parts and your write ups are awesome!

 

You're welcome, Todd! Glad I could help steer you in the right direction. Don't be nervous. If you run into issues there are a lot of members on this forum that should be able to aid you in your project. I'm glad that our articles have been helpful to you. If you need anything during this project please don't hesitate to give me a shout. Good luck!

 

You might consider getting the Bentley manual.

 

I have that thanks. Bought that when I got the car. It is very useful for sure.

 

Here's a link to another brave soul taking videos of his engine removal --- very recently posted. Might be of some use --- https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4194214

When I pulled mine, I had the Bentley manual open and in use. Not an easy task, and a better organized set of instructions would be lots friendlier. Hope someone has what you're looking for.

 

Thank you very much!

 

thanks for all the information. So far so good. Not that hard as of yet and I really dont see anything too difficult. As always the hardest part is getting started.

 

Looking good so far, Todd!

 

It's out : )

 

Back in and making progress! I am so ready for this damn thing to be done and running lol.

 

Ok I have a question. Got the engine in. Brakes still need done and need to bleed them and the clutch cylinder. I wanted to test the engine before going further so I was going to prime the engine with oil. To do this I disconnected the plug wires and cranked it. That worked fine twice but the third time all I hear is a click and smelled electrical. I'm wondering if maybe I burned the starter out. It was I neutral and I thought that was fine but maybe not having the clutch primed caused an issue?

 

Update: 7k miles and running good. No engine issues but found my intake and charge pipe have leaks so I ordered new ones. I am definitely happy with the build.

 

Todd: I am planning on a rebuild this summer 2017. What did you do to your engine, or did you invest in a short-block from Mini or elsewhere? Did you record your steps for removal and re-install on video or just wrote them down?
There aren't many videos on how to completely remove the engine with some semblance of a logical plan. It looks to me like people just ripped the things out with no apparent work-flow. Best, Dan Raabe

 

I didnt really record it. I watched a few videos and just kinda did it. Honestly it isn't too hard. The hard part is starting. I can find some of the links for you.

I disassembled the engine block completely and had a local engine shop clean it, bore it out, valve job on the head, port the head, new Supertech piston/con rods, bushings, WMW cams and had the combustion chambers ceramic coated by Dart. I meant to do a writ-up on what I did but I have been working 55hrs a week and kinda short on time.

Outside the engine I replaces all components that bolt to the engine itself. I also replaced the clutch since I was there.

Hope that helps. I can provide some details for where to buy parts if needed.

 

p.s. buy a lot of zip tags and mark all connections!!!makes it easier later and take lots of pics.

 

I hope the thread starter is still on NAM...cause Id like to know why the bumper and lights need to be removed.

Also can you leave the tranny in place and pull the longblock out on its own?

 

Yes I'm still on here. Putting the car in service mode is best if not mandatory imo. There is a lot of stuff I'm your way that by removing the front end makes easier and it really isn't hard. There are instructions on pelican parts about service mode. Might take an hr to do. Message me anytime if you have questions. My car is still running great!

 

And yes you can pull the engine with the trany together.

 

Todd thx for responding.

Ive put the car in service mode before. But you took the entire front off. Just curious if that was necessary. You imply it wasnt.

I have an automatic and Id like to avoid pulling out the automatic for one reason, the car never had its ATF fluid changed and is at 153000 miles and I don't want to pull the axles and spill and then need to add any new ATF. Thats a no-no on an old automatic.

I have no compression on cylinder 3. I think its a bad valve. Im gonna scope it soon. Honestly I dont even know if its worth a new head or engine with an automatic at that mileage, but thats another discussion.

Sneedspeed sells a bare $4500 long block. Mini sells a relatively loaded long block for $6300. Id never put a used engine in of unknown quality. These motors are junk to begin with.

Do you know of any other engine options? Jasper doesnt sell rebuilt N14s.

 

Talk to Jan @ Revolution Mini Works. For a little bit more he can build you a stronger engine. I was going to rebuild my 2008 myself, but after talking to him and all his experience with these motors, I'll let Revolution do it. Might at least be worth a conversation with him.

 

Thanks Ill reach out.

 

 

As an aside (Todd I hope you dont mind me posting this on your thread) Baltimore Mini was nice enough to put together a list of parts they normally change when swapping motors WITH A NEW MINI ENGINE which includes the valve cover among other parts, but no peripherals, and when reusing all of your peripherals.

They intend you to reuse your HPFP, oil cooler/filter housing, etc.

Many thanks to the nice guys at Baltimore Mini for providing this