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R56 R56 N14 engine replacement - what else "while you are in there" ?

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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 02:10 PM
  #1  
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afadeev
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R56 N14 engine replacement - what else "while you are in there" ?

Folks,

I'm the lucky winner of "you get to buy a new N14 engine" lottery. Mine let go with complete de-compression and total exhaust-side leak on cylinder 4 about a month ago with 56K miles on the clock.

Postmortem and reliability discussion aside, I had ordered and just took delivery of a brand new N14 block from MINI. Old engine is almost out of the car and the new one will go in later this month, as time allows.

New block came with new water pump, thermostat, timing chain tensioner, oil filter housing, and even spark plugs from the dealer. I'll also be draining the tranny and coolant (duah) fluids, replacing the accessory belt and whatever little clips that broke during dis-assembly.

Car is 6 years old with 56K miles on the clock. Recently living the life of a daily driver + autoX rat + occasional DE toy.
The car was over-maintained and had absolutely no issues until the engine started misfiring badly and kicked the bucket driving down a highway.

What else would you recommend pro-actively replacing "while you in there"? Upgrades?

New engine mounts?
Drive / output shafts?
New injectors?


TIA for your suggestions,
a
 

Last edited by afadeev; Apr 16, 2014 at 08:06 AM.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 03:40 PM
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Turbo oil and drain lines should be on the list. If there is any hint of a valve cover oil leak, it is cheap to replace. Depending if you have any budget left, putting in a LSD would be a good thing. I don't know if it would be easier/cheaper to do while the engine is out, but it would probably benefit you in autocross.

Have fun,
Mike
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #3  
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afadeev
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Originally Posted by mbwicz
Turbo oil and drain lines should be on the list. If there is any hint of a valve cover oil leak, it is cheap to replace.
Mike - good one.
I just replaced my turbo oil line with Detroit Tuned kit 5K miles ago as was going to transfer it over to the new engine, but this reminds me to get new crush washers!
Valve cover came with the new/factory rebuilt engine, so that's a gimme. The old one was leaking, so the gasket needed replacement. Now, unless I keep and rebuild the old engine (TBD), the leaky valve and oil filter housing gaskets are going back home to MINI (core return)

Originally Posted by mbwicz
Depending if you have any budget left, putting in a LSD would be a good thing. I don't know if it would be easier/cheaper to do while the engine is out, but it would probably benefit you in autocross.
Have fun,
Mike
It would be easier, since the transmission is getting removed from the old engine to be transferred to the one anyway. I will give it some thought.

a
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:01 PM
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Since the motor/tranny is out...
I would toss a new clutch in...even if 50% of it was left...just me...but a clutch is so much labor vs $$, might as well swap it out....push that day you must yank it all out again that much further into the future.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:57 PM
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Interested to know if you'd rather sell the block outright rather than return as core.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 08:08 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Bcoday
Interested to know if you'd rather sell the block outright rather than return as core.
Always an option - are you interested?

a
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 08:43 PM
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Where did you buy your engine from and is it new or re-manufactured?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Porthos
Where did you buy your engine from and is it new or re-manufactured?
After spending a few days shopping around for a "fresh" used N14, most of which were in $3-5K range, I got strong advise from multiple reputable sources to avoid "used" N14s for many reasons (carbon build on valves, negligent factory oil change intervals, abuse, many other considerations).

In the end, I settled on a new/rebuilt engine straight from BMW/MINI with 2 year factory warranty. The part number claims it's rebuilt, but I can't see any signs of wear on the block now that it's sitting in my garage.

The quotes varied from $3950 to $5600, with 5 different dealers claiming $4315 was their "warranty" price. The best price, by far, was from Sewell MINI in Dallas TX, who quote me $3364 + shipping + core deposit.
http://mini.sewellparts.com/support/...tus/index.html

a
 
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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I would definitely go with new motor mounts. With only 56K on them you should be good with your injectors. You can always replace them later if needed. would be a good time to eliminate your noisemaker and check your vacuum pump too.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2014 | 04:24 AM
  #10  
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While you have the access , have a close look at (or replace on Spec) all the Sway bar bushings, lower control arm bushings and ball joints..
My '12 MCS m had fewer than 30 , 000 KM when strange sounds started from front end components.... I realise I may have got a bad set out of the factory, but the labour to remove halt the front end for access, and you have it all out right now anyways....
E.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2014 | 07:48 AM
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If the new engine did not come with a vacuum pump, replace it or perform the delete. Mine failed and trashed the engine. I am currently rebuilding my engine and will likely come in at $1500 - $2000 when all the smoke clears. Considering you got a essentially a new engine, not a bad price! Good luck with everything!
 
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