Video below - developed a loud knock, quiet at idle, increases with throttle. Already replaced the Tchain tensioner, inspected the tensioner quides are in tact from above, all looks good. To me the sound seems high on the first cylinder - almost valve train related, but I have heard rod knocks that projected sound all over in motors before.

Any one heard a similar knock as this short clip? The knock does not go away once warm, almost non existent at idle, but at 2k to 2500 rpm taps loud and proud.

This is a 03 MCS with 80k on the odometer.

 

Does the sound go away when you depress the clutch? If so, then may be your dual mass flywheel, assuming it has not been replaced with a single mass. Or, could be the water pump end of your supercharger.

 

Sorry man, made me a little sick just listening to the knocking.

It's a video played through my phone, but I think you're assessment sounds correct.

It definitely doesn't sound like my broken supercharger did.

 

Yikes. That's sounds louder then the throw out bearing and dual mass . You can test it with pushing in the clutch like Jab_67 mentioned. I would pull the valve cover off and see whats going as far as on the cam and the rockers, after checking the clutch area first.

 

Ugh that's hard to listen to, my first car threw a rod after a few months, very disheartening.

 

Clutch depression doesn't change the sound. Same exact noise whether in or out.

Really odd that with warmth it doesn't get any louder at idle as the oil thins.

ECS, I had the valve cover off last night, there's nothing glaringly obvious there.

I'm going to get into that pan before the weekend. Definitely seems louder up top, but with a scope on it, sound is resonating in pan and up top. Of course with something knocking this loud, it bounces around pretty good.

 

I would then go to the pan next. Please let me know what you see or find, i don't like that noise one bit/.

 

Does sound like classic rod knock. But it's worth dropping the pan to check. Have you inspected the damper pulley? Maybe a small chance it's letting go?

 

I too would look at the crank pulley.

 

Crank pulley is mint. This was rod knock all day to me. Had hoped not, but:

Pan is down. Bearing fragments everywhere. It's unfortunately a rebuild or replace at this point. Absolutely sucks - got this car for the wife as a birthday gift in the fall. Motor junk with minimal seat time to this point.

Pulling the rod caps tonite to see what the crank is looking like. Hope I get lucky and find no scoring.

 

:(

 

Damn, only 80k miles.

What the hell did the previous owner do to it I wonder.

 

Damn, I feel sorry for you....

Previous owner could have done nothing... exactly that... no oil...


I went through the exact same thing...

www.vimeo.com/41840812
www.vimeo.com/41841095

(turn the lemons into lemonade - time for a JCW upgrade!!)

 

Dang Jamez that thing was loose. Mine was still tight. I pulled the pan in the car for inspection so pardon the pics, mine apparently began to get loose and the two bearing halves move one over the other and stayed on the cap side.

Here's a pic of the bearings and the crank surface as it sits:

 

Still a bearing! (mine was no more, hence the significant movement)

Hopefully after some checks, the crank may still be in spec and can be reused.
New rings, proper honing, new bearings, head cleaning, new/clean oil pickup and you may be back in business!

Keep up updated

 

Crank was in spec and it turns out no grooves. The earlier pic I showed of the crank/rod journal looked like the crank was going to be no bueno. I took a chance at an in car refinish of the journal and it showed signs of coming clean. I went ahead and used 320 emory and incrementally bumped by 200g thru 1500. Tonite I'll hit it with 2000 and likely call it done. Then a full flush from top down with the pan off and a cycling of the oil pump with some a mocked pan. Should be able to reassemble by the weekend. Once the bearings arrive, I'll plasti-gauge assemble to make sure tolerances are in check before changing out rods 2-4.

 

That made me sick.

 

Looks like you'll be fine with the emery cloth in-situ repair. By the look of the bearing shells, I think you only had some smearing of the bearing material onto the journal. My Dad used to do this repair like this back when we were poor refugees and he moonlighted as a mechanic.


I'd advise going with new rod bolts, as they are installed "torque to yield" at the factory. You can use to the old ones for the plastigauge check.