How do you know if you need to replace the CV axel components versus just replacing the busted rubber boots and repacking? My boots are blown but I don't (yet) hear any clicking or any the normal "roaring" noise that I've heard on other cars when the CV axel was failing. Can you just replace the boot and keep on truckin?

 

Do the boots still have a fair amount of grease in them? If there is still a fair amount of grease in them you will probably get away with just a boot replacement.

Do you feel any free play to them at all? Hard to explain via text, but aside from the normal articulation of the CV joint is there any looseness to the joint?

If you need axles, we've had customers that get the rebuilds from O'reilleys and they are fair quality and are OE rebuilds for far cheaper than buying OE MINI.

 

I tried replacing a boot but the bearing fell apart on me because I'm an idiot :( I now have a rebuilt axle.

 

That's not very encouraging for a DIY project.

 

I did my own boots one time, and never again. I figure a car store reman is at least as good as one i regreased in my garage.

I suppose it should be mentiond there are split boot kits you install without removing the shaft. Who knows how they hold up, but worth a look if you are not planning to keep the car too long.

 

I replaced two CV boots on my Subaru - with the help of a friend who has the special pliers for the metal band. It would have been more difficult without those pliers.

A lot of money can be saved by just replacing the boots. But if you're not comfortable doing it yourself, replacing the whole axle is a good option.

There is a place here in Indianapolis that will give you a core for the old axles. Maybe there is a place in Atlanta that offers similar services?

 

My problem was getting the bearing off in one piece. Lots of roller pins fell onto my garage floor

Since you're in Atlanta just get a reman axel from Way, he'll give you the core back once you get it back to him. Pricier but there will be no issues and it'll have new bearings too. Besides, if there's no grease left it's likely time to get a new one anyway.

 

If they still have a fair amount of grease and there aren't any obvious noises coming from them, then you may have caught it in time and can get away with a reboot kit HERE. Otherwise, if they're dry and there is even the slightest noise that you can tell, then it's too late. Some good info on doing a reboot at the last post HERE.

 

+1 on clicking/noise/abnormal play being the death of a cv joint. Fwiw I replaced both inner boots on my car recently and it wasn't too bad a job at all. I'd never done it before but I found a good diy on this site.

Basically I removed the big axle nut, wheel, brake disc, caliper, brake dust shield, and wheel bearing/hub. Cut the old cv clamps, and pull the joint apart. Clean all the old grease off, apply new grease, put on the new boot, and then fight with the clamps.

You will need snap ring pliers, and the special cv boot pliers help. I made my own by taking some end cutters and filing the edge off of them. (Couldn't find any of the right ones and I needed to get the job done)

I've also seen people use standard screw type hose clamps and I think that would work and save you a lot of grief.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I'm confused (happens a lot) as to which is the inner vs outer boots. Anyone got a diagram?

 

Have you got a photo of your homemade CV boot pliers?

 

The outer boot is #4, which when you look at the full axle #1, it's located on the left of it and is the one closest to the wheel. The inner boot is #6, when looking at the axle #1 it's located on the right and is the one furthest from the wheel. Hope this helps.

 

Here's a couple of pictures. I think you can get a pair at Home Depot for $10 and then just file the edge dull. I think they're 7 inch pliers which was good for being big enough to give me enough leverage and small enough to fit into the space they need to.

 

Here's a link to the DIY I used. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-cv-boots.html

I got my boots from pelican, I went with GKN Loebro brand, the price was right and I think they're quality, but only time will tell.

I took off more stuff than the DIY author did. It just made it easier to get to everything. Also I couldn't get the lower ball joint to separate from the steering knuckle, so I removed the two bolts on either side and popped the whole thing out of the knuckle.

 

Is there anyone who has found replacement rollers needle bearings and the retaining washer for the inner CV joint itself? I have a few emails out to some manufactures because it's easy enough to rebuild with the right parts but I have yet to find anyone selling any of the parts. Looks like my retainer washer busted and the needle bearing fell out. No damage to anything that I can tell since it happened close to home and I stopped. I have looked at a few spider joint assemblies I might be able to cannibalize to fix mine. I would like to get with timken or somebody so I can put a kit together. No reason to replace the entire axle when you can repair it cheap and easy enough. Just need to do a little research.

 

the axles are so cheap I would not mess around with replacement bearings

2nd option is LKQ

 

Mines the r56. I heard the aftermarket ones suck. Is this still the case? OEM is $750ish on pelican.

 

OE axles will be best, but we've had a few customers who were in a pinch and got the O'reilley rebuilds that still are holding up. All depends on how you're driving.

The O'reilley rebuilds are factory units that have been rebooted and bearings replaced.

I actually run O'reilley calipers on my MKIV Volkswagen for the same reason, they're just refreshed factory units most times. Still have the VW Audi branding on them.

You could always try car-part.com for some good used parts, most come with some sort of warranty.

 

I've replaced boots and axles many times. Boots are gigantic pains in the ***, and if any contaminants got into the grease, it's going to noticeably shorten the lifespan of the axle, so unless you're desperately poor right now (I've been there) I always, ALWAYS suggest the axle unless the boot itself is only cracking, not leaking yet.

 

I tend to steer clear of aftermarket because I've had so many issues with fitment and longevity. For one of my vehicles I don't have the luxury of finding even OEM supplier axles. (I don't believe we have OEM supplier axles for the R56 also, just Genuine: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item0) So, I typically have them rebuilt by a local drivetrain shop that does OEM rebuilds. I've had really good success going this route for many years and would recommend you doing a Google search for possibly one in your area. Otherwise, I have also had good luck with replacements on www.car-part.com. I also would recommend possibly having it rebuilt when you get it from there as added insurance.

 

Its not about being poor. I am a engineering designer and find it hard you can't just buy the bearings and rebuild it. I caught this right when it happened and didnt drive it full of crud. Many other cars sell the spider assembly but not ours. Seems ridiculous honestly. I have reached out to Timken and others about buying the bearings and retainer to do it myself. If not I will take it to a local axle shop. These things are not rocket science.

 

Last time I called Timken they did not have a good cross ref for them. Let me know if you find out anything new with Timken.

 

I will let you know. It might take me a little time but I will let you know. This isnt rocket science here. In my case the washer on the end that retains the needles broke. Everything else looks good to me. The needle roller bearing are 2mm (1.95) diameter x 12.7mm long with rounded ends. I will stop by some distributors this coming week. I am debating on reverse engineering he entire spider assembly and having one machined to test. I can 3d model it up myself and spec my own bearings for it that are similar size and standard to US market.

 

I am in the middle of doing boots on a right side R53 1/2 shaft, what a big f8463ing mess, the outer boot turned out to be the wrong size, my pliers sucked-----I had grease everywhere-----no patience for this crap----ordered a new shaft complete but did remove the bearing retainer because I will probably need it when the new one shows up. I have been working on my Mini for 3 months doing all the repairs needed----this car was in terrible shape mechanical wise when I bought it----the list is long. When I do the left side I will not bother with the boots just order a new shaft complete.

 

I haven't done the outers, but I was surprised at how little mess there was when I did the inners, though I did go through a can of brake cleaner doing 2 CV joint reboots. Did you order OEM axles? or Aftermarket?