2003 MCS - just turned 3,000 in about 13 months. Decided to change oil due to 1 year time period. Replaced with Amsoil.

Changed oil after work this evening. Everything went well. However, I found that when tightening the oil canister, I could barely hand-tighten it even though the threads had not been crossed. I tightened with the 36mm socket then checked to make sure the canister was flush with the mount - no problems.

Took the car out for a 20 minute spin, revving car high in second and third gears. Got back to garage - no leaks. I decided to recheck the oil canister
(still bothered by my inability to hand tighten) and backed it off with the wrench about 1 turn. To my surprise I was able to hand tighten it back without the wrench!

Anybody have any ideas as to why I was unable to hand tighten the canister when I first put it on? Has anybody else had that happen?

 

It could have been that you didn't have the filter cartridge fully seated on the internal post of the canister. Some of the filters fit very tight and until you've done it a couple times, it's sometimes hard to know if you have it on there right or not. Sounds like it's OK now.

On the subject of Amsoil, which kind did you use?

 

100% Synthetic 5W-30.

So the odds are that in the process of initially putting the canister on, the filter element itself then properly seated? I guess next time I'll fit the element to the post first........

 

Could it be that being warm helped?

 

Have you run into that situation when the engine is on the colder side? Just curious.........

 

Yes while it may be hot to the touch having the car warmed up definitely makes taking off the canister much easier than cold.
So far thats my experience.

 

How does one reset the meter for oil change? I changed my oil at 10K and the meter is in the negative as it counted down.
mb

 

Try this link http://www.tech-esq.com/mini/Oil%20S...or%20Reset.htm

As far as the canister goes, did you put some oil on the o-ring? I haven't changed my oil yet (3,800 mi) and I have only seen it done once, but that was the first thing that came to mind.

 

I did - I coated the ring with oil.

I have experimented with the temperature theory and lot15 and richmds were right. I cannot hand tighten the canister when the car is cold. I can easily tighten it when it's warm.

I stopped by the Dealer yesterday to pick up some parts and a Tech told me the same thing. The BMW and MINI canisters are easier to put on and remove when the engine is warm.

 

It's a good idea to change the oil when the car is warmed up anyway, so the oil is a flowin' and can drain more completely. I think that the description of the MINI Oil Change and Inspection 1 even mentions that it includes "oil change with the engine up to operating temperature".

 

Interesting. Well when I do eventually change my oil I will have to change the canister while the engine is warm. Thanks for the tip!!

 

It's all about thermal expansion of the metals. This makes sense to me.

A rare case of non-Voo-Doo MINI

 

Dont go and scalled yerself on that hot oil

 

Yes, the oil flows better when hot, but that's not the most important reason for draining oil at operating temperature. If the oil is at operating temp when you pull the plug, the contaminants, that is the crud in the crankcase are thoroughly churned up in the oil, thus they come out with the oil.

If you drain oil cold, much of this crud is stuck to the surfaces inside the crankcase rather than draining out. The MAIN reason for changing oil is not because it can no longer lubricate, rather it is because it is the only method you have to clean out the moisture and acids from the crankcase.

Change oil hot and change oil often.