Recently bought an R56 with 53k miles. Need some help...
Recently bought an R56 with 53k miles. Need some help...
Alright. So recently I got a 2007 mini s and it's been running great.
But about a week ago a half full check engine light came on.
So I just bought a diagnostics scanner to see what I could find.
*****£*
28aa bypass blow off valve, plausibility
2b64 intake manifold, unmetered air
2DCA fuel shut off due to super knocking, cyl. 4
2D52 super knocking******
This is what I found! Can anyone tell me how to fix these maybe? In note my mpg has gone from 23.4 to 23.2...
Any help would be great.
But about a week ago a half full check engine light came on.
So I just bought a diagnostics scanner to see what I could find.
*****£*
28aa bypass blow off valve, plausibility
2b64 intake manifold, unmetered air
2DCA fuel shut off due to super knocking, cyl. 4
2D52 super knocking******
This is what I found! Can anyone tell me how to fix these maybe? In note my mpg has gone from 23.4 to 23.2...
Any help would be great.
Alright. So recently I got a 2007 mini s and it's been running great.
But about a week ago a half full check engine light came on.
So I just bought a diagnostics scanner to see what I could find.
*****£*
28aa bypass blow off valve, plausibility
2b64 intake manifold, unmetered air
2DCA fuel shut off due to super knocking, cyl. 4
2D52 super knocking******
This is what I found! Can anyone tell me how to fix these maybe? In note my mpg has gone from 23.4 to 23.2...
Any help would be great.
But about a week ago a half full check engine light came on.
So I just bought a diagnostics scanner to see what I could find.
*****£*
28aa bypass blow off valve, plausibility
2b64 intake manifold, unmetered air
2DCA fuel shut off due to super knocking, cyl. 4
2D52 super knocking******
This is what I found! Can anyone tell me how to fix these maybe? In note my mpg has gone from 23.4 to 23.2...
Any help would be great.
Your ECU measures the air mass and temperature at the MAF sensor located right after the air filter and is detecting some of that air mass escaping from the intake system though the BOV. This air mass and temperature of the air is used by the ECU to calculate the proper air fuel ratios, now your air fuel ratios are off from what they should be.
Please take a picture of you BOV located on your turbo housing.
2B64 I believe is Downstream Throttle Air Leak - P1497 here and here. Have you done a pressure test like advised above? Start there.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST

FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST

I had 2b64,2dca and 2d52 a while back.
2b64 i had it when i installed K&N open filter (typhoon) and disappeared once i changed to box air intake.
2dca and 2d52 disappeared once i replaced the HPFP on my r56 S 08'
2b64 i had it when i installed K&N open filter (typhoon) and disappeared once i changed to box air intake.
2dca and 2d52 disappeared once i replaced the HPFP on my r56 S 08'
Trending Topics
I would follow the advice above, and then check what maintenance has been done on the car. It is likely that you have some significant carbon buildup in the intake ports and the valves. This can contribute to misfires and can be cleaned up with walnut blasting. A set of plugs would not hurt, either.
Even though your car doesn't have lots of miles, there is some need for maintenance. Do you have a history of what has been repaired/fixed/maintained on the car?
Mike
Even though your car doesn't have lots of miles, there is some need for maintenance. Do you have a history of what has been repaired/fixed/maintained on the car?
Mike
+1000000000
I got mine at 49 and around 51,000 I got a check engine. I had some similar codes when I took it to my speed shop. It ended up being a thermostat housing. I am not saying thats what yours is, but to repeat what he said, often times these codes piggyback off of each other and can cause unusual readings. I agree with the smoke test and what not. My guy told me to get the bigger of the codes resolved and see if the other codes go away, thats what happened to me. So my experience would say resolve the biggest issue, see if the other ones go away.
Hey Folks,
I have a similar problem. I have the yellow half engine light. I have 3 of the same 4 faults:
28AA Bypass blowoff valve Plausibility
2D52 Engine ECU super knocking
2DCC fuel shut off due to super knocking, cyl. 1
its a 2011 jcw with 48k miles.
I bought the Schwaben tool and monitored the fuel pressure in relation to the throttle position....seemed to track but I have no idea of the values that I should see.
Interestingly, prior to this the car would give a little pop (backfire) when I abruptly release the throttle but no negative effects. Another interesting artifact...the yellow half engine light goes out....and stays out unless I get the car over say 3K rpms. Leads me to believe the diverter valve, but I can't be sure.
I also checked all around the engine and turbo and didn't see any loose connectors or vacuum lines. I just ordered the diverter valve from ECS (cheaper than pelican with added shipping). I also plan to do the walnut blasting next weekend.
Any other ideas?...Has anyone else experienced this combination of faults.
Thanks in advance!
I have a similar problem. I have the yellow half engine light. I have 3 of the same 4 faults:
28AA Bypass blowoff valve Plausibility
2D52 Engine ECU super knocking
2DCC fuel shut off due to super knocking, cyl. 1
its a 2011 jcw with 48k miles.
I bought the Schwaben tool and monitored the fuel pressure in relation to the throttle position....seemed to track but I have no idea of the values that I should see.
Interestingly, prior to this the car would give a little pop (backfire) when I abruptly release the throttle but no negative effects. Another interesting artifact...the yellow half engine light goes out....and stays out unless I get the car over say 3K rpms. Leads me to believe the diverter valve, but I can't be sure.
I also checked all around the engine and turbo and didn't see any loose connectors or vacuum lines. I just ordered the diverter valve from ECS (cheaper than pelican with added shipping). I also plan to do the walnut blasting next weekend.
Any other ideas?...Has anyone else experienced this combination of faults.
Thanks in advance!
Its old enough that there could be some significant carbon build up on the valves and in the intake ports. It also is likely on the original plugs. The carbon may be contributing to the super knock code.
Just a thought. Its not difficult to pull the intake and look down the ports with a light and mirror to see how the carbon looks.
Mike
Just a thought. Its not difficult to pull the intake and look down the ports with a light and mirror to see how the carbon looks.
Mike
Its old enough that there could be some significant carbon build up on the valves and in the intake ports. It also is likely on the original plugs. The carbon may be contributing to the super knock code.
Just a thought. Its not difficult to pull the intake and look down the ports with a light and mirror to see how the carbon looks.
Mike
Just a thought. Its not difficult to pull the intake and look down the ports with a light and mirror to see how the carbon looks.
Mike
Thanks!
FYI, you need special equipment to clean the valves, not just a can of solvent and a pick. The carbon is really stuck in place. The dealer uses a walnut shell blasting method. You want to try and avoid getting crap into the cylinder. There are how-to instructions on this site.
Mike
Mike
Thanks for the info Mike!
Yes, I've read the posts and have most of the equipment in my garage already...walnut shells arrived on Friday. ;>}
I'll post results when finished. Really hope this clears the issue and codes.
Yes, I've read the posts and have most of the equipment in my garage already...walnut shells arrived on Friday. ;>}
I'll post results when finished. Really hope this clears the issue and codes.
I did the walnut blast. I bought the media blaster at Harbor Freight for $90 on sale. The vacuum hose adapter is about $90, too. If you have a shop-vac and an air compressor (you need a lot of air), that should be all you need. Pelican has the best step-by step walk-through in my opinion.
Don't forget to clear ALL your codes before you restart it. PM me if you run into problems.
Don't forget to clear ALL your codes before you restart it. PM me if you run into problems.
Or, you can use this method, which requires you to purchase nothing: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...n_Cleaning.htm. Still a good method and will give you the same results.
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST

FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
MINI Parts | DIY Help | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST

Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
R50/53 2002 R53 Creaking/Clacking
maestro39
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
Oct 27, 2015 02:38 PM
R50/53 Replacement AC compressor??
PrimePower
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
9
Aug 16, 2015 06:29 PM
marendt428
MINIs & Minis for Sale
0
Aug 8, 2015 04:44 AM









