How do you properly bleed the power steering pump?
I just replaced the pump myself. I did the basic back and forth from opposite lock with the car still on jacks described as bleeding the power steering. I've kept the fluid level in the good range. But the new psp is making a loud throbbing whine at any position and as it was getting dark I could see the cabin lights dimming with the throb of the pump. The throb is there at any position moving or still but turns to a constant whine at opposite lock.
Even off the ground the steering wheel does not move smoothly. Assuming this is bubbles

Did Napa sell me a bad pump or do I just need to keep bleeding?

Is ther a trick to this? Does it matter how fast you turn the wheel? Do I hold it in opposite lock or just keep moving left to right lock?

 

Self bleeding...
Just fill, and keep full...turn the steering wheel back and forth, stop to stop a few times till the level stays constant...
Unlike a brake system, the PS system is loop...not a one way line...

 

So just keep trying?
I've been lock to lock at least 20 times level seems steady pump is still whining

 

PS whine and dimming of lights with turning at idle are normal (to a degree).
If it's really excessive (compare to other MINIs) maybe it's a bad new pump.
Is the steering moving smoother now? If not, maybe the rack has a problem.

 

Steering isn't better. I'm thinking Either bad pump or my rack is shot. There isn't a third part that can break is there?

 

I don't know for sure, but the steering column U joint? It's a hard to get/no longer available that they are converting from the Euro cars.
Maybe ECS can weigh in.

 

Symptom of a bad steering u-joint include...not limited to....
Reports of car being "un-alignmenable"
Steering have firm or hard spots than easy in one turn...
A temp fix might include lubing the joint... But replacement is needed if worn.

 

I'll look into the u joint but I think it's a bad sign that the power steering pump has a throbbing whine when the car is lifted and the wheels are in a static position.

 

When you steering will not return to center or if its really hard to turn the wheel and the P/S is working fine. How you can also tell if you hit the U joint with PB blaster and its starts to free up, its the U joint. Penetrating fluid is only a short term fix.


We have it here, 32306763727 is the RHD version that can be used in LHD ( US ) MINIs with a couple quick steps.

Repair Kit Lower Section Of Steering Spindle Conversion part

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306763727/



Here is the hardware:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32306781749/ lower bolt

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32206782616/ lower nut

 

Is this video how the u joint normal fails?
This is definately not my issue. No play just really heavy. I'm not sure if there are any dead spots or not. Steering is fairly heavy even with the front end lifted. I'm not sure if the inconsistent feel turning the wheel is dead spots or just my hand changing position. It does have some desire I was having some trouble hitting the joint with pb blaster without lifting and getting under the car so that test is still pending

 

That's when it completely gone / loose. Hope it does not get that bad. Replace it asap.

Most of the time it will not return to center and sticks or the steering feels very hard to turn and its not the P/S pump or fan. Or even the rack.


You can hit it as a temp fix with PB blaster through the front left wheel well. Turn the wheel and tire out till you can reach behind it and angle it up.

 

How is it with weight on the wheels??
Using the right fluid right?

 

Pentosin chf-11s
It's heavy driving not much different then before replacing the pump.
I ordered a new reservoir. I forgot there's a filter in there. Maybe a long shot but it's the cheapest part to shotgun on.

 

Yea, make sure you use CHF 11s.

Did you hit the U joint with PB blaster ?