Hi All,
I just bought an 07 (2dr Hardtop hatchback "S") as is not running.......only 46k miles car is very clean.,,,cranks but no start previous owner says he did a compression test but only tested 2 cylinders and found low compression and deemed the engine NG....When it cranks it sounds like its flooded could this be a HPFP problem or am i missing something?/

 

Zero/low compression means either intake/exhaust valves are damaged (relatively frequent occurrence with N14 engines, BTDT), or something even more expensive (pistons, rings, blown head gasket, warped head from over heating, etc).

There is something VERY seriously wrong with the N14 engine.
At the very least, you are looking at puling the head for a valve job. Or more.

Are you comfortable tackling this job?
Where are you located physically?

a

P.S.: And BTW, there is NO WAY in the world the previous owner only tested 2 cylinders and didn't bother with the rest.

 

Very heavy carbon deposits, common on the n14, might be the issue...
Have seen cars dragged into Greasysgarage with zero compression due to carbon on one and sometimes two cylidars...
Look closely...could be timing chain issue, common...

 

PS
No way it is a HPFP...
That would just mean no gas, not ZERO COMPRESSION...

 

It's amazing how many different things PO's can say.

Have *you* checked the compression yourself?

 

no I haven't I should be getting it towed here in a day or so

 

Not trying to sound like an ahole but this is rather a false statement. The biggest issue with the N14 engine, having worked on them on a daily basis since they came out, is the lack of oil changes and oil top offs. YES, MINI/NMW screwed up big time by not having a proper "low oil light" but I have to say, this engine are insanely durable, given what they go through on a day to day basis.



OP - as far as the no compression, please do a proper dry/wet compression on all cylinders. Please disconnect the fuel system while cranking. A good N14 should be in the 150-160 PSI.

If they all are low, first perform a leak down test and search for the source of the leak.

If you can't pinpoint it, remove the intake manifold and inspect the intake cams for coking.

If those are okay, please remove the valve cover and inspect the timing. Search on the forum for info on this.



46k miles is quite low for any engine and if the engine was taken care of, it should be okay. I'm hoping it's only an intake valve issue - coking/carbon build up can prevent the valves from sitting correctly and sealing the combustion chamber.

If this is the case you will need to clean them. I do this with a specific BMW machine which uses crushed walnut shells but you can try to clean them manually. If you are doing so without a blaster, I can offer some tips.

Open the #1 cylinder intake valves all the way - this will cause the other 3 cylinder to have their valves closed completely - work on these cylinder first.

Pour carburetor cleaner in all 3 cylinders with the valves fully closed until it covers the build up, and let it sit overnight. You can also use seafoam, diesel fuel or brake fluid. Just any type of fluid that will break down the carbon build up.

The next day, suck/blow out any fluid left in the opening and start scrapping the crap out of the valves and sucking/blowing the chunks out. If you use a small flat tip screwdriver, you can work your way around the valves and stem. This will not clean them 100% but it should do a good enough job for you to get your compression back up.

It's a crappy, messy and tedious job but it has to be done

Good luck!