Here is the story on the 2006 MC 98,000 miles. The wife was complaining for a couple of weeks about a small leak in the muffler. I knew it had to be replaced. The check engine light came on so I took the car to my local mechanic for a check and new muffler. The code said "new muffler" I was explained.
Picked up the car and no lights on any longer but after 40 miles CEL came back on. So back to the mechanic, they reset it but told me that the engine management system had to be completely reset/relearned which can only be done at the dealer.
My dealer is 60 miles away so not that convenient. Took the car to the dealer and had the computer reset/relearned. Paid $260 (ouch) and on my way home the CEL came back on. The dealer had mentioned that this might happen because a new oxygen sensor might be needed.
Took it back to the local mechanic and they installed 1 new oxygen sensor. Two days later CEL back on this time code for new air mass sensor so new air mass sensor installed.
Two days later CEL back on code now calling for another oxygen sensor. New oxygen sensor installed.
All during this time the care runs great no loss of power everything works except that damn yellow CEL.
Finally thought they/we got it licked, but low and behold after 3 days the light is back on again.

What is happening, has any of you ran into this before?

 

You need a new mechanic...seriously...
He bull-crapped you tell you it was a "need new muffler light code"...
Run, don't walk....
Some emissions codes are harder to reset without the propped tools...
But some higher level consumer tools can do it...
Either your guy is oversimplifying stuff and not telling you critical info, or he is incompetant...
And the fact the dealer would charge to reset adaptations (sometimes needed, but most shops pro tools should be able to do this) and NOT tell you the exact codes...
Sure lots info is getting lost in translation...
And many folks have never gotten non-oem brands, aka universal fit, o2 sensors to work right...the OEM brand ones (even from 3rd parties) usually work...

 

Zippy I understand what you are saying, but you're not all correct.
The dealer has a proprietary program/computer that can only be used to reset and update the ECM on my Mini.
This was explained to me by both the local garage and the Mini dealer, hence that is where I went after the re-occurring CEL problem.
I don't need to run as the local mechanic only charged me for a muffler install which was done with an OEM muffler from Mini for almost $300 less than the quote I got from the Mini dealer.
I've been back 4 times now to the local garage and after 2 new O2 sensors and an air mass sensor have not been charged $1 it is just inconvenient.
Show me a Mini dealer that would do that when not under warranty.

 

For the record...
I can BUY the plug and software for $29 on eBay (actual dealer mini/BMW software..same stuff, with the plug, can be used with a laptop)...iffy providence, but available... My Indy mini shop can do it all..
And the $1500-1600 pro level snap-on tools can do it...
Sounds like you did have a leaky muffler...he fixed it, got you a good deal...
But you can run the car with nothing connected after the second catalytic converter...no light forever...no such thing as a "need a new muffler light".....
Its good you like your guy...but you should not be having issues like this.

 

ejo- I think the point ZippyNH is making (I certainly will make it) is that it is unlikely all those parts failed at the same time. It is a sign of an inexperienced (or corrupt) mechanic when new parts keep getting thrown at a problem without doing the testing/diagnosis to identify the true root cause. You certainly are fortunate that the mechanic isn't charging you, but I would consider the lost time as a real cost even if it is not money out of your hand.

I bought AutoEnginuity software for my BMW and it works on MINI's too. It is capable of reading codes and reseting the engine adaptations. Cost for the basic software plus BMW/MINI module was around $350. It is very reasonable to expect your mechanic to have something comparable or better and not send you on a wild chase to the dealer.

A scangauge II is about $150 and will display engine information from the OBDII port while driving and will also display codes if you CEL comes on. It can NOT clear all codes (it can clear some).

Something to think about - if you posted the actual codes here, someone might help figure out the root cause of your troubles. (There are plenty of other code readers - I know these two, but they have features you may not want that increase the price).

 

Which O2 sensor got replaced and with what brand?

Or get the actual fault code, something like Pxxxx that could help.

 

you need to identify which code you are getting. it sounds like you are getting the 2096 code which is what i have. and the root of the problem is a vacuum leak or leak in the exhaust. believe me when i say this. if you have a leak after the second o2 sensor you can still get that code. as a mechanic myself it still doesn't make sense to me on how that is possible. well it is. if the y pipe in the rear has a tiny crack in it, the code will appear. now i have a leak in my exhaust that is hard to be found so i need to smoke my exhaust that i will do on monday to identify my leak. mind you that the car runs 100% but the light just wants to come on to tell me that their is a lean code.

 

OK to all of you that replied I talked to the mechanic that worked on my wife's car instead of the garage owner/super visor and the original code was the 2096 which can be many things from what I understand. Which caused them to do the O2 sensors and the MAP. After that the re-occurring code is 2097.
So that is where we are CODE P2097 as diagnosed with a Snap-On reader/PC
Tried disconnecting battery and resetting the computer/code but it comes back after about 20-25 miles each time.
So what is the diagnosis, where to look for a fix as the Mini dealer won't help and/or tell.

 

Sounds like you need to make the cross state venture to come visit us.

Nick
Detroit Tuned

 

2096 = to lean 2097 = to rich. Mini's are very sensitive to exhaust leaks. you must check if your exhaust is leaking. Like i said i got the 2096 code and found exhaust leak right behind my second o2 sensor. i welded it shut and still in the process of driving around with no light so far. but i need to drive at least 184 miles. 184 miles is the time where i trigger the light after a reset adaptation on my ecu.

 

Nick thanks for the offer but NO.
I bought the Mini at MCM in 2005 as they were the only ones in Mich. Little farther for me than Chicago, but with traffic less time. MCM did the maintenance thru about 45K miles after which Grand Rapids Mini was established so we went there. Both dealers and your place are very inconvenient now that the car has 90K plus miles on it so I went local without a days loss of work every time I bring it in for service.

Did do some more research and it sounds like I need to determine if NGK O2 sensors were used or not. I'll check.

 

that is another point where you need to address. It is important that you use oem spec replacement parts. you might be able to read the side of the sensor to see if shows the brand.

 

2 new NGK O2 sensors, 1 pre and 1 post Cat. and a new MAP sensor (don't know what brand) were put in

 

i hope my light will stay off. I need a few more miles of driving to clarify that my issue is fixed.

 

The shop who said you had a CEL for "change the exhaust", lol, did you receive any of the other used parts back in those 4 trips.

The O2 sensors run about $269 each ( They gave you Two ! ) and a Air Mass Sensor appx $90.00 each. Sounds like more bs but as long as your satisfied and MINI running ok, motor on.

 

Now a year later we still are dealing with this CEL on. Three different diagnoses including the dealer's.
Car now has 110K miles of which a 100K+ driven by a woman, I took the car in to three different shops not stating anything just the CEL on.
One diagnosis says 2nd O2 sensor $550 repair. (worthless as that has been done many times.
One said low compression in #3 cylinder needs valve/head job; $1,550 repair. (I later checked and found #1=126psi, #3=129psi, #2=121psi, #4=141psi)
Last one said I need a new catalytic converter because it was plugged, repair at $1,690 cost.
Three different quotes, now I don't know which one to trust.
One note, this car has alwaysbeen driven on Shell Super with exception of 1 or 2 tanks over its 110,000 mile life time We're obsessive about that.
So does that plug up a Cat or foul the valves?