My ebrake is sticking on. I release the levers and nothing happens. I can feel no tension on the lever like you normally would. It's just kind of loose. I try driving and the ebrake is definately on. It doesn't just break free either. The car has to be running/ moving for a while before the effects are not noticeable.
This has only been really apparent on days with high temps below freezing
My best guess is I have a lot of moisture in the actual cable somehow and it is litterlly freezing.
I would say the cable is snagging but that wouldn't explain the temp effects...
After a short drive I don't feel any heat coming off the rotor so I assume they are freeing up.

Is it safe to park a manual transmission on relatively level ground without the Ebrake? I was taught to put the ebrake on only and only put it in gear on an incline. (Although last few years I've been doing Both)

The rear calipers were recently replaced in large part for this issue.
Has any body else had this issue?

 

They sure can freeze & it is a bugger when they do as you know. Park in first or reverse. If on a hill turn the wheels toward the curb.

It could also be the cables have rust & grit inside of them. I had to have both e brake cables replaced on my R53 due to rust.

 

Yes...happens on EVERY car ever made with a handbrake....
Cables, if excessively corroded and cause this issue, but wet, then cold can cause it too...
And if it happens on ONE side, the caliper might be bad...that happens too...

 

Yup, they can freeze and it starts to get crazy cold out.

Typically it happens more in cars with rear disk brakes due to the cables being exposed. Water migrates in, seeps deep into the cables and then will freeze.

In cold blasts like we have now, I try to park on flat land, leave it in gear, turn wheels.

 

Any one know how hard it would be to replace the cables?

 

While I've not done it on the Mini, I can't picture it being too difficult. I've done it one many (many) other cars over the years.

Generally you need a lift, under the car its easy to route the cables. Sometimes you need to drop a fuel tank or exhaust sheild.. then inside the car the center console comes apart to get to the mounting points and hardware for the hand brake.

Link for ref - http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...06&hg=34&fg=30
See file for DIY -

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rake-drag.html

 

Found this thread as my cable jammed up today. Its about 20F here. Thought it was the caliper, but everything was fine once I disconnected the parking brake bowden cable. Spent some time freeing it up with some spray lube and will get new cables in the AM...

 

As a rule I never use my emergency brake in the winter months. They can freeze very easily.

 

A word of caution to anyone about to replace those cables - I ordered the Dorman aftermarket cables and for some reason, the left and right side version are completely different and are different enough in length not to work together. I will pick up the genuine parts from the dealer tomorrow and will see if either of the Dorman ones match the length of the genuine part.

 

I just replaced my e brake cables this summer with the Dorman bits. They seemed to fit fine without any adjustment issues. My R53 is a 2004

 

Just finished switching out the mis-matched set of cables from Dorman for MINI parts. I tried replacing the plastic ended cable and using one Dorman and one MINI, but those also weren't the same length, so I put in both the MINI cables. I don't know if it is just a QC problem or Dorman is changing the product and they are mixed in the supply chain or ?

I've attached some photos to show what I had. You can see the two Dorman cables are made very differently and are very different in length. The MINI cables look identical and are very close to the same length.

(update) Meant to add that the clips that hold the cable on are split (you can see in my picture) so if you don't plan on reusing them, it is very easy to pop them off with a screwdriver or two. Probably could even straighten them out and re-use them if you wanted, but the new cables come with new clips, so no need.

No need to drop the exhaust - remove the two screws and two nuts that hold the heat shield on and it will slide/rotate out of the way. With the car on ramps, it is much easier than I feared.

 

I replaced both of mine last year with MINI brand parts ($42 x 2) when one of the cables
started to stick, then snapped.
I also got the extractor tool for $30 which did make it easy - although you should be able
to or get an appropriately sized socket to do the same thing. Back on to ramps and it only
took a leisurely hour from start to finish.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES199707/

 

I recommend to replace in pairs, had one stick then a month later to other one stuck. Also if you buy certain aftermarkets they will be matched in length, if they are off a tad from stock.

34406777400KT Parking Brake Refresh Kit

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34406777400KT/



+1 on the tool from cristo , it helps get that tab factory uncliped.