found this alternator on ebay (on accident). normally would NOT get an ebay part like this, but this did spark some interest.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HIGH-AMP-Mini-Cooper-S-ALTERNATOR-2004-2003-02-SUPERCHARG-GENERATOR-/131271679289?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
so its supposedly a "high amperage" alternator, putting out 130 amps vs 105.

both this and the denso unit have only a 1 year warranty, so same difference there i guess (at least i think the denso has a 1 year, ecs tuning site does not specifically say).

question is, will all that extra amperage damage my electrical components?!

always felt like the stock one was a little weak when running everything all at once (stereo, AC on full, headlights) while sitting at idle.

fwiw, dealer wants about $900 for an alternator.
when did they start making these things out of Gold anyway?

 

I replaced mine last month, but I put in a 105A with a lifetime warranty.

Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for you. I wondered the same thing about the high amperage alternators as it can be handy for aftermarket stereos and such. I asked the question earlier, but I don't know if there was a firm answer.

Anyone else?

 

thats what voltage regulators are for =)

id say your fine

 

voltage regulators wont necessarily limit current... and you dont want to cook any other electronics by forcing too much juice through them.

jamez,
can you inform me as to where you got this lifetime warranty part? i def dont want to have to replace this thing again if i can help it.

 

The Alternator is capible of 130 amps, it will only charge when and how much it needs to.

This would be great if you run lots of lights, two pair of 100watt driving lights = 400watts would draw about 33.3 amps (I=P/E)

So if you have a high load with everything turned on, the high amp alternator can keep up with the load and still charge the battery.

 

My local mechanic offered it to me as part of his service. It cost $900 CAD all-in.

But if I was to do it again; I'd just replace it myself. I could have done the job 3 times over for that price with an alternator from the aftermarket (not OEM). Book time is 3.2 hours (but simple to do).

Here's my thread on it:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...which-one.html

 

That was my philosophy as well (the system will draw whatever it needs and the higher output alternator will deliver it on demand), but I didn't have time or desire to take the risk on testing it out.

 

when mine finally takes a full dump, i may spring for this or similar "high output" version; always thought the stocker was kinda weak sauce anyway.

 

You cannot over current a device with a high out put source. If you could you would burn out your parking lights with the battery - a high current source. Its over voltage that would do that. The VOLTAGE regulator will prevent that.

 

Yep. V = IR. With a given voltage and a given load, the current is already determined.

 

Yup...
Guess you could install a 1000 amp alternator.....
And you MIGHT melt the fuse box and alternator cables/wiring if you installed enough items to draw the full current........
But since you are just increasing the SUPPLY SIDE....non issues IF it is a quality unit....
But the one above is just a typical $100 auto zone Chinese made alternator.....
With electric parts....go quality...or it will come back to haunt you....IMO.

 

Ran hi amp mechman Alts on my car audio builds. Never a issue. You'll be good

 

Anything you bought eBay is the same as anywhere else. You have to have a really smooth brain to think. There's people out there Counterfeiting everything

 

Posting here because I just purchased a 250 amp alternator for my 2005 R50 (exact same size as the original 105 amp alternator) from a company called Power Bastards (https://www.powerbastards.com). I never knew such a thing existed for our cars, but you learn something new every day! I replaced my original alternator with a remanufactured Bosch unit just a few months ago, but it is struggling a bit and I get flashes of the battery warning light and sometimes the ABS and DSC warnings lights come on (which is what would happen when the original alternator started to fail). The battery and everything else is fine (ground strap, charge wire, connectors, etc.). What spurred me to do this is that I am adding an auxiliary fan in front of the AC condenser to help keep the car icy cool inside at idle and lower speeds (it's 45C here in Phoenix at the moment), and it'll help keep the radiator nice and cool. The added power draw (in addition to the stereo amp, lights, etc.) would be too much. I also just replaced the AC compressor and condenser and both my low- and high-speed fans work; the stock AC system just wasn't designed to deal with temperatures like we have here in the desert. When I get the aux fan project completed I will post some photos.

 

I'm interested in your high output alternator and aux fan project. I Live in Texas and def notice an indoor temp difference depending on engine speed, indoor fan (due to alternator) and radiator fan dynamics. It gets ice cold on freeway though, one reason I love the car lol.

I just replaced the failing alternator (get this it failed at 10A leakage current when car off, through alternator, never have heard of this or seen it ANYWHERE online that high of current, 2-4 ohms between output and alternator case) with an Oreilly rebuild. I'm not too impressed with it so far but no battery lights and no leaking currents. At idol with fans on full blast and headlights the voltage can drop below 12V. Kind of a joke they designed such an undersize alternator/speed rating. When you rev it up it goes up some but not like the old one. Seems weak to me, but time will tell.

The site you reference lists for a 2007-2010 or whatever, I have a 2005 Mini Cooper S and wondering my options if this one takes a dump.

Would a real mini branded alternator keep up better with the loads? Surely it would.

 

Hey, thanks for your interest. I thought the link pointed to the right alternator, but, yes, they have one for our first-generation cars and that's what I purchased (mine's a 2005 R50 - original owner). It bolts right up but it uses 75mm bolts instead of the stock 100mm bolts (this was also the case with the Bosch replacement unit I installed previously when my OEM unit finally failed), and you may have to trim some of the tabs inside the plug to get it to fit (I did, but once I did this it seated all the way and snapped shut). I do think the OEM units are better than so-called OEM replacements like Bosch. In the past I have run driving lights and I never had an issue with the OEM alternator. But, for what OEM (i.e., genuine MINI) alternators cost, I decided going for the 250 amp unit was the right choice considering my fan project, and I have a small amplifier behind the dash to support my upgraded door speakers and tweeters. I will post some photos and report my results when I have time to attend to the fan project again. My first attempt did not work out as I'd hoped because the kit I bought (it has an adjustable temperature switch, radiator probe and a AC relay) does not work, and the fan size I selected is a bit too big (I got a 12" when what I need is a 10"). When I re-do this, I am going to wire the fan so I can actuate it manually (via a switch under the dash) on those days when it's above 100 here in Phoenix and the AC just can't get the job done at idle.

 

As always - interesting insight and ingenuity coming from you @ATK666 .
I've had my alternator replaced once or 2wice on my PF '04 R53, by the dealer while the car was new and still under warranty.
It's been 15 years (approx 65K mi) on this current alternator. Fortunately no charging issues thus far. But all good things must come to an end...
I've never replaced my alternator myself but the Bentley lists 2wo different types of plugs = 2wo and three prong. Being my Mini is a pre-facelift makes it all the more confusing (unless I pull the alternator to find out), when choosing a new replacement.
I often travel long distances between states; if my alternator should fail during one of these excursions, remembering this thread may help in deciding if an upgrade to higher output maybe prudent/consideration for a replacement.
I've relied on Bosch parts (former cars) in the past but have also read some negatives (perhaps subjective?) about them with regard to Minis' as replacement to Genuine or OEM.

Will continue following

 

i've only ever upgraded alternators, and it was on a 1996 ford bronco, so not exactly comparing apples to apples. however, even going from a 95amp to a 130amp (common plug/play upgrade using a van p/n) everyone also upgrades the charge cable to a 4 gauge cable and add a 100amp mega fuse.

i have installed multiple alternators in two different r53s and had the same results: low voltage at idle if any accessories are used. and i'm talking about alternators tested by multiple shops as "good". i tried to pay one place to rebuild the alternator that's currently in my car and is about to come out. it was a reman from a local parts store. they said they opened it and everything was brand new. tested it and it worked flawlessly. they refused to rebuild it because they would be stealing my money.

i have searched multiple forums to find what would be required to upgrade but haven't seen much. @ATK666 did you replace any other cables or do anything else other than swap alternators?

 

Hey, all my cables were in good condition and I didn't replace them. My understanding (and maybe I'm wrong) is that the car's systems will draw as much power as they need from the alternator when they need it, so it's not like I now have 250 amps coursing through the system at all times potentially overloading my cables and other electrical components. Chances are my power needs will never get close to 250 amps, but I now have loads of extra capacity in reserve. That's the theory, at least! 😄

 

im trying to upgrade mine on the R60 but not sure which one to go with.