why does it seem like the oil is leaking from around the banjo bolt? why don't I see oil on the line if the o-ring is bad?

another question. see this photo here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...g/ppuser/73139

wouldn't it be possible to stretch the the crimped end out, pull the tube out and get a new o-ring inside?

also, what is that second line in the bottom of the photo? that can't be the return line right? the return line that comes with the detroit tuned kit looks like a big hose.

 

The steel line at the bottom is the cooling water inlet. You can't remove part of the line from the fitting, it has to be replaced with a new steel line and new crush washers. Also you don't have the heat shield installed on your oil feed line. There was a recall to add this but if you aren't the original owner or purchased from a MINI dealer then you will never be notified.

 

The oil is under pressure and doesn't "leak" rather it "sprays so you wouldn't be able to determine exactly where on the rubber seal it is failing... it definitely looks like you have a leaking line because there is oil on the hot side of your turbo.

I used the detroit tuned kit to repair. The return oil line IS a big hose on the underside. WMW also sells a kit that has a black sleeve over it but is very similar.

Unfortunately I had to do this job twice as I didn't tighten the compression fitting on the block side QUITE tight enough and it was weeping oil onto my downpipe causing a noxious smell. I would recommend you ask an expert about tightening them, but what I did was tighten them with a wrench while holding the line until the pressure from my hand couldn't stop the line from turning with the fitting, then I held the line with a tool and tightened it a little past that. 3 days later and fingers crossed that my leak doesn't come back. Otherwise I'll be buying a new kit and doing the job again.

 

There are two good threads on the boards about this issue. Read them through and buy a Bentley manual for most of the torque specs. Some aren't in there but the forum and DT install instructions have them. =)

 

Oil is under pressure (varies with RPMs, can go north of 60psi), so it's not leaking as much as it's misting. Then most of it settles on the turbo housing, burns off, and what you see is the residue.

No.
First of all, the line is metal, and contoured to the the path it has to follow around the engine block. Nothing there to stretch. Secondly, the coupling is not serviceable.

Just get the DT kit, and follow installation instructions (bottom of the page) verbatim, and you will :
http://www.detroittuned.com/detroit-...-oil-line-kit/

95% of the work is getting to the bottom end of the high pressure oil feed line, connected to the block. If your hands are larger than that of a child, consider buying more space between the block and radiator by putting radiator in "service" mode:

For what it's worth, it took me two evenings to do this job the first time around. Second time on a friend's car it took ~5 hours, including multiple breaks for beer and swapping lies, with the first hour spent putting radiator into service mode.

Yes, the return line is a big fat insulated pipe attached to the bottom of the turbo. You will see it after you remove the heat shields and the down pipe. Replace it as well, while you are in there.

The second pipe in your picture is a coolant line, as others mentioned.

a

 

Here is the parts for the oil line on the back side towards the engine, you just replace it modifying and re-crimping might not hold, and the one underneath it ( return line ) which since ding the job, some people replace it at the same time.

That line in the bottom , away from the engine is a cooling line.


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-oil-leak.html




Here is a DIY for the oil lines.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html



For the little update heat shield once the rear oil line is replaced is here: Looks like you don't have it unless you took it off, to show us that pic.
Might want to get that update.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ld-recall.html




Thanks and hope that helps.

 

It is also a good time to inspect for any oil leak at the oil filter housing/oil cooler junction, this is right next to the pressure feed for the turbo oil line. If you have oil on the front of the block, right above the downpipe, it is likely the oil filter housing.

You also need to remove the downpipe, so get a new exhaust clamp if one did not come with your kit.

Getting the heat shield bolts off is the most frustrating part of the job, I was able to do it without being in service mode. Like stated above, if you can get into service mode it will make the job easier.

Have fun,
Mike

 

It's not worth your time. Why try to save $50 or $100 bucks on the oil line when you run the risk of ruining you $1400-$1800 turbo?

 

Ran engine assembly operation for a few years. Big diesel, but same issues. We made tools to hold the line fitting ends when running the Banjo bolts down. If you don't the brazing cracks and a few thosand cycles latter it leaks. Every update of engine they would move to more of the push in fittings with bolt and Oring like on the return line. Issue with those are you have to be absolutely square when you push in the fitting or the oring rolls and gets small tears and yes then it fails after many heating and cooling cycles. We used p-80 lubricant to reduce the chance of rolling the oring.

 

should/can I check any of these extra parts before getting involved to see if I need them or should I just order them anyway? if I replace the oil filter housing seal will I have to change the oil? and how long does it take to replace the oil filter housing seals? is there a guide? if its not leaking, should I replace it anyway? also, I'm looking at the parts on detroittuned. are these parts cheaper else where?

would going into service mode just help with the top heat shield? or does it help other steps as well?(which ones) I watched the video on going into service mode. looks pretty involved. I'm worried I'll damage my bumper pulling back that trim. if you did the job again, would you go into service mode?

thanks.

 

I ordered the Detroit Tuned Super Kit. It includes everything you will need, including gaskets, clamps, and seals for the heat exchanger.

http://www.detroittuned.com/dt-turbo...ine-super-kit/

 

To change the oil filter housing seals you need to change the oil and at least drain the coolant (if your coolant has been changed recently you can reuse it). Since the oil filter housing has coolant running through it (as well as oil), there is a chance that some coolant will get into the oil.

I didn't go into service mode. The most difficult thing for me was to get the upper heat shield bolts off and back on. Have a ratcheting 10mm wrench, as well as short and deep sockets for this. It was also not easy getting the downpipe back in along with the lower heat shields. It may be easier to get the dp back in when the car is in service mode.

I did a write up in the Modifications: how to: section of the 2nd gen portion. I've got some pictures there showing what has to happen for this change.

You can absolutely check for oil leaking and other issues before you buy the parts. Get the front of the car up (or driver's side if you cannot lift both front wheels at once. Secure the car on a ramp or jackstand, then get a flashlight and look around the engine near where the exhaust goes under the oil pan. If you see any oil dripping on the oil pan, or on the bellhousing of the trans, then you need to see where it is coming from. The other common area for leaking is the valve cover. Check the top of the engine with a flashlight, and see if there is a leak on the upper part of the engine (other than the turbo oil line). If there is no leaks on top, then it is probably the oil filter.

The oil filter gasket is about $25. A gallon of coolant is about $30. Oil filter and oil is another $40. If it was me, I would have this stuff on hand in case you see that the filter housing is leaking. If you pull out the heat shields and downpipe, and see no oil leak around the front of the block, then I wouldn't bother changing the gasket, especially if you are running out of time to get the car back together.

Mike

 

ok, I put the car up on ramps. I attached 4 photos. this is the only liquid I see thats fresh looking and obvious to spot, unless I'm looking in the wrong area. and I don't think its oil. it doesn't seem to have much odor, if anything, it kinda smells "sweet". the 3rd photo shows the area it could be flowing down from or its coming out those two holes in the first two photos. the 4th photo I showed the exhaust bolt/clamp. the bolt looks like new. probably cause the oil pan was removed a couple weeks ago from a timing chain/guide repair. I'm guessing they had to remove the down pipe to get the pan out. how does the clamp look? should I skip ordering it?

thanks

 

The clamp looks fine. The accumulation of dirty liquid is on the bellhousing, under the clutch. I don't think that is engine oil, and if it was coolant it would be bluish-green. If the oil filter housing was leaking there would be burnt oil on the exhaust pipe.

I would just clean up the residue on the bottom and keep an eye on it.

Maybe someone else can offer an opinion, but I wouldn't be worried based on what the pics show.

Mike

 

Usually it comes down the front of the engine and near the exhaust pipe then to that. That kind of looks like oil but it could also be the main seal on the output shaft in the belt housing leaking to the point. You have a manual correct ? Also get some more pics right above that exhaust on the pan, want to make sure its not coming from there or the pan itself from the change.

Like said above , wipe it up, run it and check again. Follow the residue.

Thanks

 

After putting in a new turbo oil line last month, my MINI started smoking and dripping oil last week. We replaced the crush washers and put the car back together. This morning, the car is smoking and dripping again. A call to Detroit Tuned found that the replacement parts were faulty and a new kit is on the way. Hopefully that will solve our problem. Turbo oil line kits ordered around December 2013 may be faulty and need replaced.

 

I'm in the same boat. This will be the third time you and I are doing this job. I was a little irritated DT didn't agree to send me a new exhaust gasket or clamp, but luckily I have a spare that I bought from WMW...

 

And like you, Ian, we didn't have the compression fittings tight after our first attempt, making quite the mess and resulting in more time in opening up and closing the front end of the car. As much as I love my MINI, he sure is a high-maintenance chick. Best of luck!

 

The manufacture over chrimed a small batch back of lines back in december of 2013. We immediately spring into action to figure out how to test the remaining lines. So over night we came up with a solution and started testing lines and only found a few in the box, but some had already made there way out. We over-nighted lines to anyone that had a problem and put as many free items in the boxes as we could since this job does suck. All of the new lines this year we test and show no problems once alerting our manufacture to the defect. We are still getting a rare call now and then based on people that do not drive there cars that often, but if anyone has a problem with one of our lines let us know as we will take care of it right away. But over all it was a batch of 25 lines that was suspect and about 1/2 of them had an issue. Since then we have not had any problems. Everything else in the kit was reusable since it had just been installed.

Chad
Detroit Tuned

 

Thanks, Chad. We did order the line around December but just now got around to putting it in. We were pleased with the response from Detroit Tuned when we called them today and I'm hopeful that the line issue is what is causing my leak. I'm glad that we are able to work on this ourselves and save the labor costs from a shop. Plus, it's a great learning experience. Luckily, I decided not to do the entire MINI Rally that starts soon or I would have found myself broken down away from home. If all is good, I'll be back on the road by Thursday.

 

The Detroit Tuned product is a champ! I followed the directions and replaced the oil return unit at the same time. Worked great.

 

It didn't smell like oil. I wiped it off, I'll check it again when I do the oil line repair. the oil pan was spotless. and yes, its a manual.
Did you replace your return line? is it self explanatory the way it removes and attaches? havn't seen any guides mention it.

I ordered the kit with the return line included from DT, as well as the exhaust gasket. hope I didn't waste money on the return line. hopefully won't need anything else.

the DT guide doesn't talk about the steps leading up the the line replacement. it says tools needed: *1/4” ratchet w/ extension(s). do you know what extensions I need?

I found this guide: http://dotwei.blogspot.com/2013/06/2...turbo-oil.html

I don't know of any other guides. I heard the top heat shield bolts may be easier to get to from the bottom. maybe I should start with removing the bottom one first?

 

You basically need a tool box full of tools. Some times a customer likes a 6 inch extension or another likes a 2 inch with a deep socket. each tool has a use. and you need to have a large assortment of tool to work on cars. As well as every car is built different and some times the motor is closer to the radiator or other times there is what seams like a ton of room.

The Bentley Manual covers all the basic install and removal of things needed to get to the turbo oil line. so we didn't try to rewrite a book already out there, just a general over view. it's a very good item to have any time your working on the MINI.

 

what tool do you use to get the lower heatshield 10mm screws out?, I got the 2 drivers side screws out. the top one fell onto something. hopefully I can find it once the shield and downpipe are out. the 2 passenger side screws I'm not sure how to get out. its pretty tight in there. would I need a 1/4" ratchet? or maybe a long wrench? any extensions recommendations? that top screw's area that I lost was almost impossible to see, any tips for getting it back in?

the top heatshield I didn't have trouble removing. those bottom screws were easy to get to from the bottom.

 

I appreciate you sending the replacement line out to me when I e-mailed and asked for one, and like I said, I am not speaking badly of the experience but I ordered my line in January, installed in February, and had been experiencing a very slow oil leak ever since. I replaced the oil filter housing gasket and the leak continued.

In hindsight, looking at the defective line, it leaks from both ends and the oil runs down the stainless steel fibers rather than drips onto the turbo. It really is a slow leak and only after a few hundred miles can you see oil on the bottom of the engine.

If anyone wants to know if you have a defective line, run a paper towel over the bottle of the line on the turbo. If you pull oil from the stainless steel braiding it may be leaking.

As I told DT, I'm happy they offer an aftermarket part and I bought from them to support their install write up, but I was surprised they didn't contact me and if they HAD, I would've saved a lot of labor (although it was my own) and I would not have erroneously replaced the oil filter housing gasket. I asked for a new gasket and when you told me, 'The old one should be good. Use it.' I bought a new gasket.

And I didn't get any freebies in the box but whatever.

I'm glad DT stood by their product, if anyone is worried about having a defective line, run paper towel over the braids and if it's got oil call DT. I'd still buy your product again for the reasons I stated.

I hope your other customers aren't upset that they have to redo the job. Perhaps more than once like me because it didn't occur to me that the line could be defective until I'd ruled out the other possible oil leak in the area.