The question of the Aisin TF60SN automatic transmissions being problematic has been raised so I thought it best to start this new thread specific to the Aisin used in our Mini Coopers.
This particular transmission has several varients such as the 09G used in Volks Wagons which is the one most comonly reported as being problematic.
Basicly all the different variations of this Aisin transmission are the same with the different automobile manufactures using differing components to the transmissions such as the transmission control moduals(TCM) software.
As noted the VW 09G appears to have the bulk of complaints with most of those complaints centered around shifting issues such as slide bumps.
While I can find quite a bit about VW's 09G reporting problems with this transmission, I have not been able to find anything specific to the Mini Cooper's TF60SN as being problematic.
So my question is;
Have any 2nd Gen. Mini Cooper owners had any problems with their Aisin automatic transmissions?

 

I'm probably not a good example as I've only got 4,000 miles on my '13 Justa Hardtop but so far it's been flawless.

 

My 07' S is still running fine on the Aisin transmission. The mileage is not particularly high (65000km) despite the age, but I have never had problems with the transmission. The only thing that sometimes happens, is that the bowden cable connecting the selector to the transmission unit loosens and the computer reports a fault, as the selector is in a different position than the transmission. That is the only known issue and is easily fixable.

I think this transmission is probably the most reliable part of the car! Keep in mind, 3rd gen models still use it, so BMW must be happy with it.

 

alexs3d2, any more info on this fault... does the EP show up on the display, but the car still seems to drive normally?

 

We've only put 6,000 on ours so far and everthing works as it should also.

 

Here's another thread about this:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ed-at-80k.html

Not sure if the Aisin 6-speed that they used in Gen1 cars is the same as the Aisin 6-speed that they use in Gen2 cars.

Most problems have to do with the valve body.

 

Aisin transmission is a pretty good trans. Honestly it is one of the most reliable items on the R56. But the key to keeping them bullet proof is changing the ATF in them. And when I say changing it..I mean not after it starts to shift funny. Change it every 30k or so.

 

Great thread that starts in 2010 and runs up to current date.
Sixteen pages of interesting information that speaks to valve body problems that have plagued the 2005 & 2006 Mini Cooper Aisin automatic transmissions (not the CVT models) with no mention of problems in the latter model years.
The original valve body in these transmissions were of poor design where the casing material was aluminum and the soleniods were steel resuling in wear problems.
There was a law suit brought against VW and Audi over this and VW has since issued a recall with extended warranty.
I don't know what changes ( if any ) Aisin may have made to their valve body assymbly after these intitial problems started to pop up but a Sonnax update appears to have resolved this problem by using sleeves in the soleniod bores (Revmaxx sells this Sonnax upgraded valve body) and is available for purchase as a possible fix. From what I've read the Revmaxx valve body seems to work.
So it is obvious that the early Aisin automatics used in the Gen1 Mini Coopers were problematic, it is unclear if these same problems have continued over to the 2nd Gen and 3rd Gen Mini Coopers.
For this reason I would like to limit this thread to the 2nd Gen Mini Cooper.

 

I got 186,000 miles. I drive it hard. Highway and around town. Motor just took a dump. Transmission was working perfectly.

 

Hard shifts on cold start from first to second was diagnosed as fluid leaking into the valve body in my Aisin 6-Speed Automatic in my 2009 MCSa with 72,300 miles.

 

37k miles on our '12 MCS. No problems with the transmission..

 

+1.

Aisin is a good tranny, but does require maintenance if you want to keep it running smoothly forever (e.g.: longer than the engine).

When changing ATF, I would also seriously consider investing the extra effort into replacing the filter as well. I did all of the above at ~50K miles, and even though I had no complaints about how the tranny shifted before, it is materially smoother now. Especially on hard downshifts.

a

 

51K on ours,no problem either.

 

Ours works well at 65,000 miles. Fluid changes are key to keeping it alive. MINI may say it is lifetime fluid, but it most certainly is not. Change that fluid, I do ours at 35,000 miles.

 

69,000 miles on mine, N12 engine. No problems. I've done 4 partial drain-and-fills on the ATF since it's difficult to change it outright.

Is there really a filter in there too?
I love this tranny. Lots of fun to shift it in various modes, i.e. Sport, using the stick, using the paddles.

 

The filter is just a fine metal screen in a sheet metal housing. It is not a paper or fabric filter like the oil filter. But it blocks another passage and allows a greater amount of fluid to be drained when the filter is removed.

I waited too long to change my fluid, and there was significant crap in the pan. I was glad that I pulled the pan to clean it and the magnet in it.

Mike

 

65,136 miles 2010 cooper-s 6-speed Aisin trans broke, hard thud crunch and no forward or reverse at all. motor went at 53,000, vacuum pump failure, dealer told me it was my fault, low oil, I had them pull dip stick in front of me and my wife, oil was right at top of dip stick. synthetic oil every 5,000 miles. Bad design, you don't put a heat sensitive vacuum pump next to a heat sink heat pump ( turbo ). I looked at top of motor with valve cover off, timing chain side was a beautiful honey color turning to dark caramel near vacuum pump. CBS service is an outright LIE after complete engine failure on board computer engine check came back engine OK, Ran OBD check it showed 5 pending codes, they had not set as permanent until a second event occurs, yellow engine light after total engine failure.

 

Well MINIMI2, I would say on your transmission you had a more of a major type failure. One that I would find not so common. Ive serviced a number of MINI transmissions around this area because BMW wants a arm and a leg to have it done at the dealership. Ive never heard of the type of failure you have described. Not saying its not possible at all. Nothing surprises me owning a MINI. But one big factor with the transmissions in the MINI is the amount of heat they create and the poor type of ATF they use. I had one I changed at 23k and already the ATF had looked like it had a 100k on it. I always change them out and use an synthetic ATF of specs to the MINI. As far as your motor issue that you have described. That is something ive come across a few times. And its all caused by heat. Or at least a great portion of the motor failures like what you had are. The key to keep the motor from failure is more frequent oil changes and use a high performance type synthetic. Really if you own a MINI it will require a lot more attention then your conventional type cars. This is just the nature of the beast.

 

I found this site when the 1st motor blew, wish I'd found it sooner. All oil changes at 5K intervals with Napa Full Synthetic. Changed oil last week and reset computer on car, It set for 17k for next change. Picked car up from dealer with rebuilt motor , drove home and did 1st drain and fill with Royal Purple full Synthetic, two more with a week between each change. I have never had a problem with the trans. everything shifted as it should,Paddles bump stick , regular drive or sport. Started changes at 53k miles, Hard Brake at 65K miles. Tow truck driver even said he could hear gears crunching as he winched it onto the flatbed. (it was in what was left of neutral)

 

It should be understood that if the inner seal on the vacuum pump starts leaking it sucks the oil out of the engine with no visible sign of a leak. This in turn will cause the vacuum pump to freeze up when it no longer gets enough oil which in turn will cause you cam to fail resulting in total destruction of your engine.
Could very well be a correlation between excess heat and the vacuum pump failure.
Just another reason to check your engine oil levels constantly.
Sorry to hear about your tranny loss, these should probably be flushed and changed every 30.

 

Question for the master mechanic's on this site? What does the connection look like from motor to trans? Is it a splined slip? A form of key-way at the crank, I feel that this is definitely where mine failed! Car will still start in park and motor runs but the connection has failed. It sounds like the ends of shaft are grinding against other. It gives me goose bumps and a sick feeling in my stomach. This car has had the absolute best of care and maintenance from day 1. ( Oil changes on rebuilt motor at 500 & 1500 miles.) This is my wife's car and it must be reliable for her safety and my peace of mind. I'm just not feeling It.

 

I checked driver side axle, CV joint still good, shaft sheared at snap ring groove inside transmission. Snap ring and last 1/4 inch of shaft visible in trans. Splines on shaft show full contact 7/8 inch past snap ring groove. Anyone have any Idea how this shaft could shear only the last 1/4 inch?

 

I have a justa 2011 clubman 16 K miles auto trans, Would it be a good idea to change the factory ATF now to synthetic? Also as a non S model if I use synthetic oil whats the safe mileage to go in between oil changes 5000? This car is driven by my wife and most likely will never have a hard drive. I am hoping having a non S model will give her extended life of the motor and trans. Thanks for any advise

 

I wouldn't mess with the transmission at 16k. For a non S 5000 miles seems like a fine interval. Those engines don't take the abuse like our turbocharged ones. Switching from conventional to synthetic fluids can cause issues, I know from experience in my last Beemer as I got a bunch of weeping seals after shop put the wrong oil in it.

 

I would change to trans oil. Only 16K, but 4 years old. Cheaper to change it than try & save a bit & shorten its life. We change ours out every 35K, for us that is 2 years.

Once a year on engine oil if it was my car. Changing oil tranny or engine more often will not hurt a thing.