My inner tie rods are making a ton of clunking racket. Planning to replace them, and possibly change out bushings, stabilizer links, and switch to coilovers.

Anything else that should be done at the same time, before alignment is done?

 

For the Gen 2 R56+ Its the outer tie rods that cluck, the inners can wear out, but it does not happen near as much as the outer.

I recommend replacing them in whole sections as sometimes the inner rod can seize to the outer rod connection and then be a pain to replace. Also when you get the new ones run a little anti seize on the connection thread of the inner and it make the alignment adjustment much easier.




Tie Rod Full Section - Right Side Part # 32106778548

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778548/




&&

Tie Rod Full Section - Left Side Part # 32106778547

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778547/




For the control arm bushings ( rear ), look at the mount. If the rubber bushing is cracked, then its likely the suspect. 31126772235 left & 31126772236 right , part # control arm bushing with mount. For the Cooper and Cooper S : JCW version has a different durometer for the rubber mounts part.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772235/



&


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772236/



And if you are looking for just a bushing upgrade we do have the Powerflex version, while fixing the front (rear) bushing on the control arm. Press in type.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-101X2/




Since you might be changing out the rear control arm bushing I would also check out #13 outer ball joint and the #7 inner ball joint , it connected to the lower arm.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772303/



&

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772304/




#7 Wishbone ( control arm with bushing ).




Thanks and hope that helps. A good inspection of the front and rear sway bar bushings and stabilizer links would help.

 

THanks,

I'll look into those options.