Inner tie rod replacement
#1
#2
For the Gen 2 R56+ Its the outer tie rods that cluck, the inners can wear out, but it does not happen near as much as the outer.
I recommend replacing them in whole sections as sometimes the inner rod can seize to the outer rod connection and then be a pain to replace. Also when you get the new ones run a little anti seize on the connection thread of the inner and it make the alignment adjustment much easier.
Tie Rod Full Section - Right Side Part # 32106778548
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778548/
&&
Tie Rod Full Section - Left Side Part # 32106778547
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778547/
For the control arm bushings ( rear ), look at the mount. If the rubber bushing is cracked, then its likely the suspect. 31126772235 left & 31126772236 right , part # control arm bushing with mount. For the Cooper and Cooper S : JCW version has a different durometer for the rubber mounts part.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772235/
&
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772236/
And if you are looking for just a bushing upgrade we do have the Powerflex version, while fixing the front (rear) bushing on the control arm. Press in type.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-101X2/
Since you might be changing out the rear control arm bushing I would also check out #13 outer ball joint and the #7 inner ball joint , it connected to the lower arm.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772303/
&
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772304/
#7 Wishbone ( control arm with bushing ).
Thanks and hope that helps. A good inspection of the front and rear sway bar bushings and stabilizer links would help.
I recommend replacing them in whole sections as sometimes the inner rod can seize to the outer rod connection and then be a pain to replace. Also when you get the new ones run a little anti seize on the connection thread of the inner and it make the alignment adjustment much easier.
Tie Rod Full Section - Right Side Part # 32106778548
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778548/
&&
Tie Rod Full Section - Left Side Part # 32106778547
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106778547/
For the control arm bushings ( rear ), look at the mount. If the rubber bushing is cracked, then its likely the suspect. 31126772235 left & 31126772236 right , part # control arm bushing with mount. For the Cooper and Cooper S : JCW version has a different durometer for the rubber mounts part.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772235/
&
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772236/
And if you are looking for just a bushing upgrade we do have the Powerflex version, while fixing the front (rear) bushing on the control arm. Press in type.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-101X2/
Since you might be changing out the rear control arm bushing I would also check out #13 outer ball joint and the #7 inner ball joint , it connected to the lower arm.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772303/
&
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126772304/
#7 Wishbone ( control arm with bushing ).
Thanks and hope that helps. A good inspection of the front and rear sway bar bushings and stabilizer links would help.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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