This issue has been perplexing me.

I turn the key on, all lights light up normally, then when I turn to the starter position the starter doesn't turn, make a sound, click etc. But the power steering pump turns on fine. This started right before Christmas. I let the car sit for a few days because of the holiday, then when I come back to it starts right up. Then from January 8th to the 10th I didn't drive my car. On the 10th the issues came back and it wouldn't start.

When I try to jump start the car, the same thing happens and it doesn't start. However, when I go down the driveway (its on a decline) and I pop the clutch it starts right up.

I removed my starter and bench tested it with the battery...no issues with that.

I replaced the battery with a new one in the beginning of December.

When I connect the voltmeter to the battery it reads 12.3v.

When I connect the voltmeter to the ignition wire on the starter (when it is disconnected) and turn the ignition to start I get 11.75v. When I do the same thing but while jumping it from another car, I get 13v.

When I connect the voltmeter from the positive terminal on the starter to the ignition terminal with everything hooked up normally resting it is as 8v and when I turn the ignition to start it goes down to .75v.

I tested all the grounds and they are working fine.

At first I thought it was the starter, but on the bench it turns fine. If it were the battery then the car would have started while jump starting it. If it were the key (I tried both sets) it wouldn't have started when I popped the clutch.

I tried starting the car without the clutch depressed, the power steering pump doesn't turn on. When I do it with the clutch depressed, the power steering pump does turn on. So I know it isn't that.



Are there any other suggestions on what to try?

 

Well...
First thing is...
The ps pump is faulity...it should not turn on till there is an output from the alternator.... It is wired this way to turn off...so you can drive a bit longer if the alternator fails.....
Depending on the production date...you might have a free Extented warrenty from mini....

 

I have a leak (not major enough to lose a significant amount of fluid) from the PS lines. I brought it once to the dealership and they did an inspection and saw that but said nothing of the pump being faulty. Several times I have started my car and I have no PS but when I restart it everything works fine. The pump is covered under warranty, the PS fluid lines are not. So it will take a lot to convince them the pump is faulty. :/

 

Next..the r53...the S...
HAS TWO + battery cable runs....
one is fused...the one to the fusebox...
But the one to the starter is not...it is protected in a crash by a squib (explosive charge) that disconnects it if the airbag is deployed...it is in the box next to the battery....
If the box fails...due to...usually water...corrosion...car will not crank...but everything else will be ok...
A few cars have had the cables chafe...unusual...but something to look into....a cut/mostly cut wire...just like a corroded battery disconnect could cause a failure to crank due to lack of amps...

 

.

 

No signs or corrosion there, everything looked as it should.

 

Do you think it is possible that the power steering pump is causing this? If it comes on when it isn't supposed to (for whatever reason) it is drawing voltage that would have otherwise gone to the starter to start the motor.

I put the key in the "On" position, then connected a wire to the ignition wire terminal on the starter than the the battery post to the left of the air box. The starter did not start, but again the PS pump turns on.

 

It is possible that the ps pump may not shut off on turn on on it own killing the battery...this is THE MOST COMMON FAILURE...
Simply put...the electronics on it get covered in carbon dust...and then baked...
Then fail...the electronics HAS a "sense" circurt on a extra connection...letting it run ONLY if there is suppicent amps from a RUNNING alternator..it also determines if the ps pump needs to run in a "low load" or high load mode....so a future warrenty...aka free issue...think it is about 13 years and 150,000 miles if a covered car...(pretty sure not exact, but the letter is around...only some early 2005 cars are covered).
Can you jump the car from the + terminal under the hood?
Like I said...the starter + cable from the battery is UNFUSED due to the amps involved...you said it bench tests ok....
Other items to look at...
Try a different key...possible the anitheft system might not be reading the key...not allowing it to start..this is different from keyless entry...it is a RFID chip...looks like a grain of rice glued in the inside of the key next to the keyless entry transmitted. When the car reads it...
You usually hear a chime/ding.no read....means no start.

 

Tried both keys, same thing happens with each.

I disconnected the wiring from the PS fan and the pump, tried starting and nothing happened. So that rules out that being the direct cause.

I'm really at a loss because all of the common things have been checked. Even the ignition switch looks fine.

 

Thanks for all the help Zippy, I'm going to have to probably keep poking the voltmeter around to see where something is off.

There's only 7.75 volts on the positive terminal of the starter so I have to figure out what's causing it to not get enough voltage.

 

This sound exactly like the issue I was having.

Take the ground strap that on the top left side of the engine off. Sand down the surfaces and put it back on nice and snug.
That fixed my issue. Keep it simple.

 

Whelp, I just grinded off the corrosion on all the surfaces. That's all it f'ing was...

Big thank you.

Now to put the car back together but it starts right up now.

 

Awesome!! Glad it was simple!!

 

The jump start lug on the engine mount is a known trouble spot. Good call Brian!

Glad you got her going Gizmo....

 

My suggestion...
Since this was the issue...
Apply some dielectric grease to the mating surface after cleaning......will help it stay corrosion free and conduct better...prevent future issues.

 

I spoke too soon. I reinstalled the starter and it rattles while the engine is on. The rattle is the starter motor staying engaged. If I put on the headlights, start the engine, the rattle starts because the starter is still engaged and the headlights do not turn back on (I presume because the engine thinks it is still trying to start).

I tried popping the clutch while going down the driveway...it starts fine, no rattle, headlights stay on, BUT the battery light comes on and there is no power steering.

I tested the battery, it's at 11.75 volts still (I have it on the charger now). But once I start the car the voltage goes down to 11.30 volts.

I must have reattached the wires incorrectly because it seems that the alternator is powering the starter or keeping the solenoid engaged. If it is doing that, it makes sense that the battery isn't getting charged. And if I start the engine by popping the clutch the battery light comes on because the starter isn't moving.

The only picture of the wiring I could find was this - http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...l6r9voNarefEYA

I have the large positive wire attached to the positive terminal, the ground cable attached to the ground terminal, and then the ignition wire attached to the ignition terminal.

Am I missing something? It seems like once something gets fixed on my car something else always pops up...

 

I think everything is fixed now. I did have the second wire on the wrong terminal.

For future reference for anyone who replaces their starter. Both of the bigger wires attach to the positive terminal, the smaller attaches to the ignition terminal. The only wire that should be on the ground terminal is the braided wire that is already on the starter.