I noticed this just recently that my DSC light continues to illuminate if I
retorque my lug bolts on my wheels while the car was off. The car would
move just a tad (like less than an 1/2 in) while I torque up the lugs.
The sidebrake is pulled, but car not in gear.

The DSC comes on while I place the key into the ON position and stays on
unless I shut the car off, and turn it on again to reset. After the reset, the DSC
light will come on during normal startup, but will go off as normal.


Is it suppose to be like this? :???: I guess I'll put the car in gear next
time I torque up my lugs just in case so that it will be harder for the car to
move.

 

exactly.... scratching my head too.

could be the Unichip doing something too...

 

>>I noticed this just recently that my DSC light continues to illuminate if I
>>retorque my lug bolts on my wheels while the car was off. The car would
>>move just a tad (like less than an 1/2 in) while I torque up the lugs.
>>The sidebrake is pulled, but car not in gear.
>>
>>The DSC comes on while I place the key into the ON position and stays on
>>unless I shut the car off, and turn it on again to reset. After the reset, the DSC
>>light will come on during normal startup, but will go off as normal.
>>
>>
>>Is it suppose to be like this? :???: I guess I'll put the car in gear next
>>time I torque up my lugs just in case so that it will be harder for the car to
>>move.
>>
>>
I've done this several times but haven't noticed anything unusual. Can you explain the exact sequence?

example: Car is not running but key in on position, then retorque (move), and light on?

From my knowledge of the DSC light strategies (which vary considerably) there may be logic to warn the driver that DSC is not available. For example:
if you just power on, the DSC may normally turn off (normal bulb check) but DSC is not available because the engine is not running.
if you power on and start the engine, the bulb will look the same but DSC is active since the engine is available.

As a safety precaution, anytime the vehicle is moving and DSC is not available most manufacturers request the light turns on to warn the driver to drive cautiously. This could be engine not running or low battery voltage.

If you didn't have the engine running and the car moved with the key in the on position, it wouldn't surprise me that the DSC light comes on as a warning. This isn't a fault, it is just warning that DSC is not active (similar to pressing the DSC switch).

Next time it happens, try just starting the engine with the light already on. The DSC lamp should go off again automatically.

Another possiblity is that DSC unit detected acceleration on the rear wheel without movement on the driven axle. This type of detection normally will reset itself as well.

 

matt- the key was not in the ignition at all when I torque up the lug bolts.
The side brake was pulled, but not in gear. I torqued all 4 wheels.

Car rolled maybe 1/4'' max...

When I start the car, the DSC light cames on as usual, but did not go off
after it did a self-check. I would need to shut off the engine, and then
re-start...then DCS light comes on as usual then goes off after a few seconds
as usual.

If i don't torque up the lugs, I don't get this problem... so Im thinking that the
sensors are active even while the car is parked??? :???:

It is possible that when I torque up the rear wheels, the rear wheels rotate
alittle more than the front... (not sure)..

_________________
03MCS IB/B: 123, Aero, R90, SSR, Milltek, Pilo Intake, UNIchip, H-Sport, Alta Swaybar, 6CDMP3...

 

>>exactly.... scratching my head too.
>>
>>could be the Unichip doing something too...

Veddy interesting. Since I've installed the Unichip, I have intermittently noticed that the DSC light staying on after startup; the switch won't turn it off, but if I shut down and restart, the light goes off after startup, and the switch works properly turning it on and off. Veddy interesting.

 

>>Veddy interesting. Since I've installed the Unichip, I have intermittently noticed that the DSC light staying on after startup; the switch won't turn it off, but if I shut down and restart, the light goes off after startup, and the switch works properly turning it on and off. Veddy interesting.



HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!! veddy veddy interesting...
might be time we call up Unichip.

 

>>>>Veddy interesting. Since I've installed the Unichip, I have intermittently noticed that the DSC light staying on after startup; the switch won't turn it off, but if I shut down and restart, the light goes off after startup, and the switch works properly turning it on and off. Veddy interesting.
>>
>>
>>
>>HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!! veddy veddy interesting...
>>might be time we call up Unichip.
>>
>>

Well, that behavior is not normal. I hate to say Unichip, but there aren't too many things that could be the problem. Normal the DSC (ABS) unit is powered off ignition and therefore movement in teh wheel with the key out would have no impact on the unit.

So tell me if this sounds like the sequence you do:
1. turn off ignition and remove key after a spin on the track.
2. retorque wheels with the key not in the ignition.
3. Start the engine - DSC lamp remains on.
4. turn off engine
5. Start the enine - DSC does normal bulb check.

is that about right?

I can tell you from my experience that after retorquing (or even lifting the MINI) the DSC is active normally.

It appears that somehow the DSC unit has detected a problem. Possible causes could be:
1. wheel torquing moved sensor or tonering on one or more wheel and DSC detects an air gap problem but this would not correct itself just by cycling power.

How easily is this repeatable? can you make it happen readily just by retorquing? If so, I'd be happy to give some suggestions.

1. After you can repeat it readily, try just doing one wheel. Try to identify if any one wheel might be the problem. Maybe only by torquing a certain wheel you have this problem. Then you can take it to the dealer and say clearly not Unichip.

2. If you can track to a single wheel, try not retorquing, just spinning the wheel. This would tell you if it is position sensitive or torque sensitive. Position might indicate that you are turning the engine over and the Engine ECU detects something strange. That I would expect to be accompanied by a check engine lamp.

3. I don't know how easily the Unichip can be unplugged to reset to stock, but try returning Engine ECU to stock (no Unichip). Can you repeat it? This would indicate some problem with the Unichip that would make the DSC believe that DSC cannot be make available.

If the Unichip change is easy, by all means start there.

 

matt- thanks for your input. First off, the sequence you wrote is correct. That is
exactly how I got the DSC light 4x in a row after retorquing my lugs.

I am not sure if the Unichip is suspect in my case, but Jack at Unichip is
looking into this issue. He says he is aware of the issue and happening to
maybe 10% or less of the MCS's out there running Unichip. The Unichip
does not alter the ins/outs of the DSC circuit.

The thing is that this never happened on my car before adding the Unichip.
I should take the unit off and see if this happens...

Another issue I am having is that recently my car has a hard time keeping lit
after a cold start in humid conditions. I would start the car, but stall on its own.
My car without Unichip did not do this. If I start the 2nd time, it would studder
and nervously continue to be lit as I gas the throttle and drive off slowly until
stable (takes maybe 2min). My other suspect for my DSC error lite is that
*possibly* there is not enough electricity going to the DSC circuit during the
initial auto-check sequence due to this unstable start condition...it *could* be
that the Unichip and ECU is draining more current than usual trying to keep
the motor lit and the DSC circuit can not finish the auto-check sequence in
time.

Anyway, as long as I don't touch my lugs the DSC error does not happen, so
Im not really too worried about it, but kinda annoyed.

 

It certainly look more like the Unichip may be a problem. Again, I don't know anything about the Unichip or how it modifies the engine parameters. Is it possible that something is wrong in the installation? No offense, if you installed it, just trying to understand the system and possible causes.

It is unlikely that not enough power to the DSC unit. The DSC is tolerant to low voltage as are most auto systems. If DSC detects low voltage or the voltage is too low for it to correctly operate, it will turn on the light until the problem is good. The system is designed to recover since our friends in northern canada and other climate with -40 degrees would experience this at most every car start. If you had a problem during crank, the light would go off as soon as the car was running and the alternator increased the power.

What is curious about your problem is that the ignition is off. Not many systems are still operating without ignition, primarily Engine control and body control (doors, windows, locks, lights). Since the Unichip is powered from the engine control circuit it would most likely still be powered.

A problem with the tonering on the wheel or the wheelspeed sensor would not correct itself just from cycling power.

Another check you could try is push the car a little and see if the light comes on similarly.

Good luck,
Matt

 

Well, I swapped wheels again today (one of my new set of SSR's with
Goodyear F1 ate up a 2" bolt!! ) to my other 16's and the DSC did
not light up... so its does not seem to be consistent with anything now.
hummm...

For the last few days I torqued up the lugs just for the heck of it to see
if the DSC would lite up... didn't happen. I think it could be my ECU just
trying to adjust to the more humid climate and it just may not have had
enough power going to the DSC while it was running its factory check
sequence. So, not sure if it's the Unichip or just the way my car is.

 

If you have a UNICHIP, then there is a good chance that it is some minor programming gremlin in the UNICHIP. I have had my UNICHIP for about 5 weeks and no DSC light ... until this morning. Funny enough, it happened today when I started the car up in order to drive over to the LA Pulley Party so that I could meet Randy Webb. I told him about it as was doing a pulley swap, and basically he said that they (he /UNICHIP /Dastek) are aware of the issue and they already have a fix for it that is being tested. He isn't sure if the UNICHIP module will have to be sent back to UNICHIP for the reprogramming fix or if an authorized UNICHIP tuner can just download the fix and reprogram module on the spot. He also suggested that you leave the ignition in the "ON" position for 5 or 6 seconds before cranking the car and that "MAY" prevent the problem. There is more on this whole issue on Randy's site.

ftbt

2002 Works Cooper S, Sn. 1165, DS/W; Sport + Premium + Alta CAI + UNICHIP + H Sport Springs, Competition Front & Rear Sway Bars, Rear Camber Control Arms + 17" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1's; 215-45-17 Kumho MX's + AP Racing Formula Big Brakes, XDrilled Rotors, Goodridge SS Lines + Clear Bra + Cobra Daytona Seats + Schroth Harness and a full tank of 100 octane ... life is good!

2002 CVT Cooper LY/W + Sport + 17" S Lites & Pirelii Euforias + Clear Bra

 

ftbt,

Thanks for the update, I'll try the 5 second delay to see if that cures my Unichip DSC issue. I'd much prefer having the option of seeking out a local authorised Unichip tuner rather than sending the unit back to Oregon. Love my Unichip, and so far with this exception it has been "bug" free.

 

So out of curiousity I did a little research into the Unichip mod. I found this thread pretty quickly on Randy Webb's Site. It looks like you're not alone.

 

>"ON" position for 5 or 6 seconds before cranking the car and that "MAY" prevent the problem.


In my case, I tried that about 2 weeks ago and the DSC light came on as
usual, but remained on. Motor was not cranked.

It doesn't matter it seems...if it comes on, it comes on regardless of
ON position or engine start.

lately the DSC light hasn't turned on so that's good. The stall after
engine start happend even while the unichip was off the car, so its
my ecu causing that during humid days (over 65%RH about seems to do it).

Anyway, the unichip is working fine from what I can see.

_________________
03MCS IB/B: 123, Aero, R90, SSR Comps, Milltek, Pilo Intake, UNIChip, H-Sport, Alta Swaybar...