I've run across a few threads mentioning this problem or perhaps something similar, but none with a video, so I'm starting a new one.

Here's the sound I'm getting:

It disappears on mornings when it's been colder outside, but once the car has been running a while, it comes back. Generally, the hotter it is outside and the longer the car has been running, the worse the creak is. It also feels creaky, if that makes sense.

Transmission is a 6-speed getrag from an R53 with the Valeo single mass flywheel and clutch kit.

Any ideas on what it might be?

It sounds like it's coming from the engine bay, not the foot-well, but I haven't had a chance to crawl under the car yet to confirm.

 

I'm thinking a failing slave cylinder or a very dry bushing on the clutch release arm.

 

Mine does the same thing with a factory clutch. I think it's either the throwout bearing binding on the guide tube, or the clutch lever shaft needs lubrication.

 

Very interesting - thanks for the replies.

I've wondered before if it might one of those plastic bushings on the clutch lever shaft.



Number 5 and/or 6 in the diagram are the bushings. I'm pretty sure the bushings themselves can't be replaced without removing the transmission.

I might try spraying some white lithium grease or graphite lubricant on the outer bushing tomorrow morning and see if it helps.

 

When I replaced my clutch assembly I couldn't get the fork off the shaft so I unable to replace my outer plastic shaft bushing. There is a lock pin on the outside if it could be drilled or pressed out it would provide the access to replace the outer bushing by removing the outer clutch lever. Don't know if the pin can easily be removed

 

I don't think that the lock pin can or should be removed since it comes pressed in but I had the same issue with the fork, it would not come off, then when I finally decided not to change the bushings since I couldn't take the fork off one of them broke so I had no choice, so I hammered the crap out of the arm and ended up damaging the top of the arm but it came off, I did grid it back to shape put the new bushing back in and it works perfectly now, it's a shame that you have yo drop the tranny if that bushing breaks

 

Whenever doing a clutch on the R53, One should remove pin, disassemble the fork and replace the fork AND those two white plastic bushings every time...my two pence.



In the R50 it's called a "kit" for both fork parts, but the two white plastic bushings are not included.

 

grey raven - any trick to removing that pin? Sounds like its given people trouble in the past. Interestingly, the parts diagram lists it as a "hex bolt" - maybe there's someway to unscrew it?

Didn't get around to trying some lube on the bushing today - hopefully tomorrow...

 

Got around to trying this this morning. My graphite lube wouldn't spray, so I just used white lithium grease. Will report back on whether it helps or not.